Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Board Walk | |||||
V0 | ★ A Nice Walk
Improbably worthwhile slab opposite Chicken, Brie, and Avacado on the other side of the track. Do it with no hands (not even pressing against the rock!) to add a grade or two and get an awesome lesson in balance! | 3m | |||
V0 | Chicken, Brie and Avacado
VE Stand start on the left hand side of the small boulder, just to the left of Grovel Train. Short easy warm-up FA: Kate Reid | 2m | |||
V0 | Grovel Train
Start in middle of small face, then head right into wide crack and grovel your way to victory. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Slap-a-crack
Sit-start at the bottom of the crack using obvious block. Head up left, following the crack and making use of good features on the face. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Reach, flex, repeat
Stand-start using big flake, head up and left using more big flakes to finish at the break half-way up. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ À Demain
The Sit start to Reach, Flex, Repeat. Start sitted with RH on arete pinch/sidepull and LH on incut pinch and obvious feet. Two big moves into the flake. This sit start breaks the sandbag of Reach, Flex, Repeat. Finish matched on large obvious crimp. Should top out but it’s way too dirty above. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2019 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Tic-Tac Low
Start as per Hockey Stick. As you round the corner, stay low instead. Move left to small feature pinch with a low shouldery crossover crux to good hold at low on crack (rock on ground is out for feet). Move diagonally up (left of crack) using small left sidepulls and right slopers to finish. FA: Samson Reynolds / Jeremy Ullmann, 2014 | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ Hockey Stick
Next to the Crack, a nice long slabby line. Start inside, next to the crack, moving left, get onto the shelf with your feet, and tuck yourself inside the overhang. Follow the line around on the shelf on good holds, heading up and across after you move around the corner, then continue across, with the traverse ending about where the tree is. FA: | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tech Arete
Stand start the base and balance up the arete to jugs, make your way towards lip building courage as you go. Hidden holds lead to mantle. Top inspection and a clear head recommended. FFA: Cal, 20 Nov 2015 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Crack
Stand-start using the right leaning crack, head straight-up to finish with a big move to the hold under the roof. One of the classic problems of the area. | 4m | |||
Crack Extension
Continue left at the end of crack via the pockets beneath the roof. Keep going till your standing on top of Gaston the Grey. | |||||
V7 | ★★ X Front
Climb up the start of Y Front, trending right through the crack and into slopey crimps. When you reach the slopey dish dyno for jug blocked against roof, roughly 1 and a half meters from the finishing jug of Crack V4. FA: Sam Lavender | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Y Front
Start as The Crack but carry on up obvious line to finish. Technical and very sloppered crimps define this face climb. Unrepeated | 4m | |||
V6 | Culture Vulture
Stand start with positive crimps in the break 2m left of “Gaston The Grey” and good RF. A long lock off to crimps straight up. Either dyno to the lip for V6 or cut right into GTG for V5. | 3m | |||
V5 | Gaston the Grey
Stand start on the grey streak, just left of the large block. Move up via gaston or dyno to a good crimp rail then mantle onto ledge and out. Multiple holds have broken since the FA. It's likely the problem will need an upgrade. FFA: michael garraghy, 2011 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Short and Crack
Up the obvious wide crack in the corner, bridging on some nice percussive rock. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Rock-skating
Stand-start using flake, then straight up with some nice footless sections. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Iron-stone crimp technique
Stand-start on small iron-stone edges and ok feet, straight up. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Mullet Mayhem
This techno, crimp-ladder begins as a sit-start on TTA. Pull on and move up, stepping left, finishing up ISCT. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 15 Apr 2020 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tarte Tatin arete
Sit-start on the arete and finish right. FA: Dan gordon & Sam Bowman, 2013 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Edges like a babies bum
Stand start on good edge, head straight up on decent holds. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ European Cave Man
Sit start at base of obvious flake, up flake trending left to top out. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ The Look Of Silence
Sit-start of “ELABB”. Commencing right on the obvious honeycomb pocket and sidepull crack (same as Hotel Rwanda). Move up and then crimp across left to gain the large edges of ELABB, finish as per that. All of the crack and boulder to the right are out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jun 2019 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Hotel Rwanda
A direct version of European man cave, sit starting left on a good RH sidepull and cool LH pockets. Joins EMC at the massive jug flake 3/4 of the way up. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2019 | 3m | |||
V4/5 | Ollie's supersonic scrubber
Stand start up crack then head right to mantle obvious overhanging shelf. The boulder and wall to the right are out. FFA: Johnny, 29 Mar 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Cut
Squat start on jugs either side. Use the cool arete and then up to a break. The crux is the mantle, slapping the right hand side of the bloc; compression. The slab/wall on the right is all out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Dec 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ C'mon more energy!
Stand-start on the left hand side of slab, straight up in a test of your single-leg strength. The wall to your left is not in. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Slab-n-pop
Stand-start on right hand side of slab using obvious foot, straight-up. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Rise With The Fallen
Start up And Better sit start, traversing left without stepping in the cave into Tree Fall. This boulder combines the three most difficult lines of the wall. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jul 2022 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Tree Fall
Crouch start using high RH side pull and LH undercling moving up to a break then into a very powerful crux. Classic of the area | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ And Longer
Start as for "Tree Fall" and traverse delicately to top out above "It Gets Better". A plethora of feet prevent you from stepping in the cave without contriving the problem. Unsuspectingly compelling and technical movement. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ And Better
Stand-start using good edges and big foot above the left hand side of the small cave. Trend up and a little right. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ And Better Sit Start
Sit start to “And Better”, starting direct under AB on the sloping rail LH and RH on right positive slopper- with heel hook above the small cave. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ It Gets Better
Stand-start on the right side of the small cave- left of The Downfallen. Head up and slightly right on good holds. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ And Best
Sit start as for The Downfallen. Climb straight up until reaching a line of crimps below the lip. From here, make a technical traverse left to top out as for And Better. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ The Downfallen
Sit start on the right side of the little cave. LH on slopper pinch jug- right on sidepull crack- feet start on dish underneath the RH crack. Ascend FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2018 | 3m | |||
V0 | Big Triangle
VE Squat start with hands on good edge, up and mantle. Easy, somehow fun | 3m | |||
V0 | Flakey
Sit start at the bottom of the left leaning crack, then head up and left. | 2m | |||
V0 | Sunday afternoon slabwalk
VE Stand start, straight up the middle of the slab | 3m | |||
V0 | A little more action
VE Stand start in the shallow corner on the right hand side of the slab. | 3m | |||
V0 | Calm Like A Still Bath
Sit-Start with the pocket LH. Move up to the cool rail and enjoy. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2019 | 2m | |||
Pappy’s Blocs | |||||
V2 | ★★★ Mommy's Warmup
Start on undercling, straight up, top out. FA: Jackson | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Who Needs Mats Anyway
Opposite Quiet Tennis. Start under the lip and make a big move over. Start the long climb to the top. Originally climb with a cheap and skinny mat. FA: Dylan Glavas, Jun 2020 | 6m | |||
V1 | Pappy's chimney
Easy bridging route standing start with plenty of holds to top out on the main cliff | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ The Son
Stand start on little chest height ledge, mantle up into decent holds and top out. FA: jayden desmond | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Atheist Son or Reformist Daughter?
Stand start on big jug, straight up, top out. FA: jayden desmond | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Big Pappy
Stand start and move up the committing big pappy bloc. Excellent movement FA: Angus Davidson, Mikey Musch & Scott Walsh, 22 Jul 2020 | 7m | |||
V1 | ★★ Quiet Tennis
Like normal tennis, but without the racquet. Stand start on the left hand sidepull/edge and maneuver up across a variety of slopey holds. Technical. FA: Scott Walsh, Angus Davidson & Mikey Musch, 22 Jul 2020 | 5m | |||
V0 | ★★ toddlers traverse
Around the corner from quit tennis approximately 10 metre from the corner of the cliff edge A good one for beginners Standing start using obvious jugs half way up to the crux from here traverse to the corner of the high boulder using undercling's and side pulls before using the corner to top out at 4m FA: jamie Johnston, 14 Sep 2020 | 4m | |||
V9/10 | ★★★ Project
Start under the huge bulge and make a long move to a decent hueco, supporting crimps will get you in to position for the tiny face crimp over the bulge, from there make a huge move to a decent crimp on the face and continue crimping powerfully until victory jugs await you. | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Perichoresis
Start on the slab, up to the large jug rail, big move up to crimp and top out. FA: jayden desmond | 6m | |||
Pappy Van Poodle
| 3m | ||||
V6 | ★★ Hot and Woke
start on the small left crip and right undercling side pull, right heal hook on, straight up the middle to the horn, big left move to top and tricky mantle FA: Samuel Melville, 5 Sep 2023 | ||||
V6 | ★★ Never Played Pac-Man!?
Start as for Hot and Woke, instead of going straight up traverse left straight into a right pinch , figure out the crux and continue left to top out FA: Samuel Melville, 5 Sep 2023 | ||||
Little White Rock Antiquity area | |||||
V0 | ★ Nought worthy
Sit start on two obvious holds and follow the left seam to the top FFA: Neil Jenman, 1 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ 1
Stand start on good side pull and sloper, straight up. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ One and a Half
Start as for 1 and traverse right on the sloper rail to top out as for 2. FA: David Jefferson, 1 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ 2
Stand start using arete, head stright up. | ||||
V6 | ★ Echo Canyon
Sit start the right arete problem with bad feet and a low right edge move up to the LH gaston and up some cool slopers. FA: Jimmy Blackhall | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ 3
Sit start with good right hand edge and low side pull, straight up for a nice short problem. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Balance Bitch
Sit start as for the V3 on good slopes, head up and left to slopey crimp then top out. FFA: Marion N, 30 Aug 2015 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ 4
Sit start using good holds, big move to the good hold at the top. Stand or jump start to the good top hold for a V0 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ 5
Stand start with good side pull and small edge, head straight up. Sit start goes at V6. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ 5 Sit Start Variant
The sit start to number 5. The crux is pulling on and moving. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ 6
Stand start using edges, head straight up to good slopers on the top and mantle. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ 7
Good edges and up | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ 8
Stand start using small edges on a very bad footer, slap the slopers and mantle. | 2m | |||
V0 | Phil's Smart Alec Little Bro
Sit start to an easy mantle finish. Just around the left hand corner from Phil's Mantle | 1m | |||
V2 | ★ 9
Sit start on good edges, straight to the top and mantle. Stand start goes at V0. FA: Phil Beattie, 2014 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Across the block
Stand start at the crack on the righthand side of the block. Traverse left on lip using slopers, topping out around the corner. | 4m | |||
V0 | 10
Stand start up the big pockets and scoops on the arete | 3m | |||
V1 | 11
Stand start up the right side of the arete | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Numbers Game
Sit start very low in the middle of the boulder with LH on a positive rail and RH in a shallow 2 finger pocket, with feet on the shelf. Do some serious body English to reach a high RH crimp flake, then hit a good LH crimp before mantling out. So named because it feels like V7 initially, but climbs more like a 3 or 4 if you figure out the body positioning. FA: David Jefferson, 1 Jul 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ 12
Stand start with bad feet, straight up to slopey rail, anything goes from here. | 3m | |||
V1 | The Hideaway
Stand start and ascend the arete | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Antiquated
Start on the arete then head right to finish as for Antiquity FFA: Sam Bowman, 2013 | 3m | |||
V3 | Yeet it or eat it
Start with right palm of right wall with left crimp. Use both walls, left wall used for feet and finish top on left wall. V4 for small people | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Antiquity
The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic FFA: Rob Saunders, 1992 | 3m | |||
Antechinus
An eliminate route. A "J" style problem in the tradition of Joshua Tree. Jump from the ground to the sloper where Antique Roadshow tops out, muscle up and top out using ONLY this hold. A little contrived, but a lot of fun. FA: Leon Drummond, Dec 2021 | 3m | ||||
V10 | ★★ Antique Road Show
Sit-start on barely there holds, moving left into mono's and finish on jug below ferns. FFA: sam bowman, 10 Mar 2015 | 4m | |||
V12 | ★★ Antimatter
Same sit start as antique roadshow prom but head right till you link into the V4 arete. A 60 degree sloper guards this beast. FA: Sam Bowman | ||||
V4 | ★★ 13
Straight up the arete for a desperate slopey mantle | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Jump'n'Hump
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ 14
Sit start and up the offwidth crack | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ YIN
Sit start from the large pocket, left to a crimp then tricky pulling on mediocre holds, traversing hard left then up for a fun mantle. Holds broke since First ascent. Has been sent in it’s new form around Hard V7 or soft 8. FA: Cal, 30 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Yogitoes
Sit start up through slopey rail to sidepull and mantle. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Cheese Curds
This slabby problem stand-start’s on two underclings with obvious huge footer at the far right of the boulder. A balancey move to start, gains a large sidepull, then to a cool small RH pocket, directly up to a cruisey finish. Cynthia named it after Pountine, she's Canadian eh! Set: Cynthia Cormier FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Dec 2016 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Cheese Sandwich
Sit start to the right of Cheese Curds in two opposing sidepulls with good feet on the low rail. Make a big move and top out to the right side of the boulder next to the arête. FA: David Jefferson, 23 Apr 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | Modern Art
Far left problem on the separated boulder (crack on right is out). Sit start on a peanut pinch LH, RH on a decent crimp, LF smearing and RF on good footer. Straight up to the great horizontal slopper break and big holds on the finish. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2019 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Jeans Recommended
Start inside of small cave on a massive ledge, work outwards and into the crack. Head to the start of the cave and finish upwards. Be careful of spiders and other deadly creatures dwelling in the hole! FA: Philip Xunlix Ly, Jul 2016 | ||||
V4 | ★ Contemporary Art
A squat start on the lip of the cave on good holds leads to a couple of powerful moves. This line eliminates the arete and the crack on the left, by just climbing directly the face. Set: Jimmy Blackhall | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Face crimp line
Sit/Stand start on good jugs or edges on R arete of boulder. Up and L to low face crimp then up to sidepull flake and mantle. Footwork essential. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Crimp Dyno
Squat start on two crimps in the scoop. Crimp up the face to a big dyno. Classic FA: | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Rocket Boy
Sit start as for Repeater, but head left to a good LH Pinch and RH flat hold, and dyno to the prominent bump on the lip and top out. Will be a V4 for shorties. FFA: Tom Reid, 27 Sep 2015 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Repeater
Start on pockets, move straight up, rail-slopey slap up to the right, gaston/mantle on jug, feet up, top out | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Sticky
Stand start on pocket and high rail, move right to juggy sidepull and upwards | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Such a long way
Sit-start on big flake and pockets, move straight up on slopes then left to finish as for Repeater. May add a grade or two if your under 6 ft tall. FFA: Sam Bowman, 10 Mar 2015 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Meet me in the middle
Sit start on the flake of SLW and launch to the slot of Gym and Tonic, from here climb G&T. Pretty explosive first move feels like a natural extension to G&T. FA: Gus Mckelvie, 8 Nov | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Gym and Tonic
Stand start to the left of the crack/runnel feature, with the RH in a shallow pocket and the LH in a good slot. Move up the blunt arête/slab with slopey feet and hands, and balancy yet athletic movement. Avoids all of the holds to the right of the crack, including the blocky pedestal at the start. FA: David Jefferson, 16 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Gymjunkies need not apply
Up the left arete of Gymset using only the rail for hands. Quite challenging for feet with an interesting top out! FA: Matthew Earsman | 3m |