Routes as trad in Central

Immaculate trad. Starting in the corner beneath the roof. Scramble up to the corner to belay. Go directly up the corner to the roof, traverse L beneath the roof to stand on the face. Go up the twin cracks tending L to the ledge. You can continue up and over, see "Sunshine Extended".

Go up the corner, then up the crack, tend R up the slab. Excellent natural pro throughout, big cams required.

A ramble. Starts at the crack and tree 5m R of Sunshine. Up the crack, belay on the ledge. Step over the void and up the corner at L to a ledge. Up the short pleasant chimney then over R to the ledge. This ledge is shared with Sunshine, as is the final pitch. Up the corner, then up the crack, tend R up the slab. Excellent natural pro throughout.

Alternate access to headwalls, these slabs will get you above Red Wave Wall to gain some great unclimbed lines. Aim for the tree's and you should be on a good starting point 3 pitches of %# till you get to the bottom of the walls. A bit of a scramble but no harder than the access for NE Ridge and actually could be more fun.

Sling with a Maillon on a tree on top of Red Wave Wall could be an alternate descent 60m with stretch gains ground this is about halfway along the top of Red Wave Wall pendulum up hill to gain ledge to off rope and scramble down Or extend the sling up top about 5m.

1. Pitch 1, 30m 17 up over vegetated bulge to slab up thin crack trend right over bird poo and up thin seam with good protection with small wires to DBL Hoop Pine Belay.

2. Pitch 2, 55m 12 trend right 25m up broken slab under overhang to corner of east ridge arête. Now on North facing wall walk along traverse 30m to hoop pine belay passing many tempting lines above.

3. Pitch 3, 40m 17 Up corner behind tree good protection on a solid line to tree belay (A fine pitch of climbing).

4. Pitch 4, 50m push for summit scramble up gully to right 50m to East Summit.

Pitch 4, Sun Permitting great lines spotted up left of this belay twin crack 30m?

Descent: Rappel from tree belay's 30m to top of pitch 3, then 40m to top of pitch 2 at traverse ledge, then 55m to top of overhanging Red Wave Wall passing some great lines to hoop pine on ledge and now final descent 60m gains the top of scree slope passing 10m+ overhangs on open air rappel.

From the first ledge , stay on the left. Used 3 bolts , 1 micro nuts , 2 friends n2 After a nice slab continue on easy ground to the anchor point. The route continue another 45 mts towards a small patch of trees. At 35 mts there is a ring bolt for a quick escape From the tree we have explored 2 way to the top and both required good scrambling up and exposed way down. The route will continue for another 100 mts up left of the trees. Suggestions: bring an approach shoes or good gym one as climbing shoes are suffering there Start to be fun 🤩

The area have a lot of looses rock of any size, helmets mandatory and aware till a good first clean up is done

A short and fun hand crack that has some good placements in solid rock. A good option for trad beginner, top-rope or done as a high-ball boulder with ample space at the bottom for mats and spotter.

Climb the wide manky crack and finish by scrambling up the gully.

A great line which has the most unique hold at Playpen being "the nose or beard". Commonly climbed as sport it was originally climbed with a nut/cam placement between the 2nd & 3rd bolt in the left variation of Camarello Brillo crack. Missing the 3rd clip would result in a ground fall.

Good rock, all natural gear. The line follows 3 seperate cracks, the middle one taking you diagonally right. Top out at S.E DRBB.

Good warm up and beginner route. As with Special Education, originally climbed with nut placement between 2nd and 3rd bolt in the right variation of Camarello Brillo.

Good gear and easy moves. Good beginner climb. Start just left of the tree and work your way up the crack and corner system. Several exit variants. Take care of loose blocks.

Start just right of the tree and bumble up the big crack. There are a few interesting moves and good wires.

The twin cracks left of square overhanging arete. Up the crack through two bulges. Bridge up to ledge on right up to tree belay.

Toward left end of cliff is a flat topped boulder with a right leaning off-width on right side of boulder.

On left wall of the gully between Hansel and Gretel.

Once on the ledge up from Chumbawamba, up the vertical face, mantling over the edge just right of the open v groove crack. Care with protection.

Start in cave hard move past overhang onto face (Crux) climb to small tree to finish, make sure of your holds!

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section.

The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements.

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards.

Average rock quality and potential wasps.

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic.

Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets.

About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade.

Abseil down to the large ledge just left of the finish to Amateur Theatrics. Climb the prominent diagonal crack up rightwards to the crux where it bends towards vertical near the top. Very sustained.

The continuously technical overhanging thin crack immediately right of Something Wicked. Crux at the top.

Open project. Crux hold broke off making it significantly harder. Grade 26ish. Take a #1 cam for between the 4th and 5th bolt.

Starts 10m left of Cathedral cave. Follow the thin right-leaning crack to a small cave at 30m (belay possible). Step up right from the cave to an awkward mantle onto a ledge then traverse delicately left to the arête in an airy position. Easily to top.

Start up the crack on the right hand side of the cave. Climb up and traverse left to the centre of the roof. Still waiting for a red point ascent

A brilliant sustained route in an exposed position. Climbs the obvious corner hanging over the right hand side of the cave. Take double ropes and lots of small cams. Dyno up on fig tree branches through the tunnel in the foliage until you hit rock and a welcome cam placement. Then climb up to and past a band of sandy rock (two bolts) to a stance at the bottom of the big smooth corner. This is where the fun starts. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to the top where an escape, past a bolt, onto the right wall is possible. Then swing right again to a stance of sorts, then move up to a horizontal break and welcome runners. Figure a way across to the bolt on left. Then hand traverse further left for 3 meters on decreasing foot holds to gain another bolt. Hang in there its nearly over. Climb up past one more bolt and a horizontal break (good runners) to a grim lichen infested exit. Belay off trees. Lots of them.

From the ledge, follow the crack up to the Ledge. From ledge, keep left, following the easiest way up.

Shares the start of Serenity. Up crack to ledge, where Serenity goes left. Keep climbing straight up where a committing move (crux) will gain you the wall above. Continue up the line and belay in a small recess. 2nd pitch (grade 15) follows the exposed continuation crack to top.

Walk 50m past Cathedral Cave and into the slot between the main wall and a detached boulder. At the end of this slot, there is a crack. Belay here.

Pitch 1 - 14 - Up crack easily to the vegetated ledge (can belay/rap from here). Scramble around the large alcove to the right and then trend back to the left and up for a ways, with gear deteriorating when slopey, sandy bulges are found. Belay underneath obvious right-facing corner. 40m.

Pitch 2 - 17 - Straight up off belay and get established in right-facing corner (crux). This pitch has great gear and climbing. Top out and belay in recess 2m back from the cliff.

Rap tatt is installed lookers right 10m from the top out. One 35m rap will get you to the vegetated ledge. Downclimb or rap again from here.

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

I’m not sure where the name came from, but it seems appropriate. It follows the prominent corner/chimney system midway between Gravel and Wine and Killer Whale. The rock architecture is pretty spectacular around here. Take big gear and wear a helmet.

1. 30m. 20. Climb the glassy smooth body crack corner which soon narrows abruptly to an offwidth. The crux involves getting past this constriction. Once you have done so, continue up more easily on thin face holds to a comfortable belay ledge below the looming chimney. Led by Alex Christino.

2. 25m. 17. Ascend the chimney until progress is halted by the ceiling. Then bridge horizontally out under the 8m roof in a spectacular position. Exit the ceiling on the left hand side and layback up to a good ledge. Watch out for loose rock here, especially as you are directly above the belay. Finish easily up leftwards to a big tree. Led by Joe Lynch.

1. 30m. Climb the slabby corner guarded by a bold start. Traverse to the left most crack and fire up the 30 degree overhang on sporty crimps and fiddly placements until you reach a stopper crux just before the angle relents. Take a rest and continue up easy twin cracks and belay on the ledge.

2. 10m. Up chimney then trend left on juggy slab.

To start this adventure either start on the ground ( best position for your belayer) and solo up 8m to ledges or start on the ledges, (same as killer whale ) take a deep breath and climb the overhanging coral on thread runners,till you joyously reach the first piece of fixed protection. Continue cranking though the crux's till you reach the slab. Put on your ballet shoes and tip toe up the slab till you reach a small roof, over this on jugs to gain a ledge. Bumble on till you reach the second roof, mantle over the lip and rejoice,take in some fresh air and run up the easy slab to belay.

An obvious arête line until you reach a stopper crux high up in space. Grade 25+. Open project.

A steep, unrelenting face climb that goes straight up the middle of the gently overhanging wall left of Organ Failure. Take a set of wires - there are three placements after the last bolt. Double bolt rap station.

A pumpy warmup. Exit right and trad belay at the top.

Located on southern side of castle. Stays in shade. Up lay back crack moving left around enormous chockstone. Bring 5 and 6 cams. Belay on top of chockstone.

From top of huge chockstone, climb leaning corner crack to top of pillar. Pull onto face with awkward moves up to a ledge. Up and around to top.

The overhanging corner right of Transplant Rejection.

An absolutely outrageous roof climb in a fantastic position. Start below the obvious 7 metre offwidth roof on the shady side of the Castle. You can't miss it.

1. 15m. 19. Up the deep line to a triple bolt hanging belay just below the roof. Be careful of the rock on this pitch.

2. 25m. 25M0. Traverse out along the roof to a couple of extremely welcome jugs at the lip. Two guide bolts either side of the lip ensure that the rope doesn't stray too far into the crack. After turning the lip, launch straight into a desperate 20 degree overhanging offwidth. This eventually narrows all the way down to a finger crack before the angle eases to vertical.

Start to right of Divine under line of bolts up wall. Five bolts up wall to ledge. then pull through roof on jugs to mount sandy chock stone. Then blast up over hanging line on the left. Full rack required for top crack. 3rd bolt out of sight on ledge.

On the right of the divine wall the cliff breaks down to lichen covered walls with a few cracks up them. Here you will find Sherpas Tensing, the the first right hand corner from divine wall.

Layback or heel/toe up the corner with the wide crack on left, until you can move easily onto the face, then upwards to the large ledge. Rap off tree.

The fused corner. Stem up past 6 bolts to a #1 cam placement. Up past another bolt and nut placement to top out on ledge. Rap off tree.

Past the blow hole and around the corner, before the cliff peters out.

Up right side of the cave and then continue straight up, finding gear in cracks and breaks all the way. A bit fragile, climb carefully.

Trad anchor to belay. Scramble up another 10-15m to the top and walk down the gulley further right to get back to the ground.

Short like James' temper but pleasant like his charm. This delightful hand crack stays shady in the morning making for a perfect warm up to start the day.

The first line on this face. Climb up through the jungle of vines then into easy chimney. Trad belay in cave.

Start behind the big tree. Up the twin cracks and into the chimney at the top. Climb to the back of the chimney and exit through the hole at back of cave.

Wander up the face between the two trees, to the right of the wide start of "You Bumble That". Good pro down the bottom and up the top, but quite scarce in the middle.

The tree has since fallen out witch may have made this easyer as the cruxs was getting around the tree.

Offwidth corner starting from a ledge 10m from the base of the cliff. Graded 19, but Tony would say it's a 20.

The crack and juggy face just to the right of the Lizard Ledge.

Starts from the ledge and climbs up the finger crack with plenty of face holds.

Up face and arete. Starts from the ledge.

Up the orange face passing a cool little cave. Traverse right along ledge and continue up left trending crack.

P1)18 P2)16

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

Avoids all the offwidths. Climbs the handcrack to cave and then up the flake. Instead of continuing up the wide crack above, hand traverse left then up thin corner crack. Continue up the widening crack with plenty of face holds to trad belay in cave.

Start as per Antivenom and continue straight up the crack and face passing 4 bolts.

This unrelenting offwidth is sure to get your blood pumping. Take lots of big gear!

The pleasant crack and chimney in the corner.

Up the face to the right of Cranky Boys Corner passing one bolt and a tree on the way up.

The large corner to the right of the big orange face. Lots of different ways to climb so choose your own adventure.

Starts behind the large boulder. Chimney up to steep hand crack.