Routes in Queensland for selected grade

The full traverse. Sit start bubbles and traverse all the way to the left of the boulder. Mantle

Stand-start the middle of the slab.

Stand-start on the right of the slab.

Sit start up the juggy arete to an interesting mantle.

Sit start Lh arete, Rh crimp. Up the juggy arete.

Sit start the right arete, Rh on arete, Lh on sidepull on the face. Throw to the lip, traverse left and mantle at Semper Fidelis finish.

The only sport route at Mt Walsh, forgive me father for I have sinned.

A left leaning hand crack starting from a ledge near the top of the bluff. To access, leave the tourist track at the last set of painted arrows before the summit and crawl through a small cave. Walk along ledge until you are at the base of the climb.

A glorious chimney followed by a gymnastics style hand jam through a bulge. Bonus points if you can do it without grunting! Finish left to small tree for belay and escape via scramble further up left. Stays in shade all day!

Adjective: batshit;

Completely mad or crazy.

Sit start matched on the sidepull jug Cattle Guy starts on. Tops out via the slab.

Great climb up overhung arete at L end of pillar. Four UBs and lower-off.

Stand start with hands vertically aligned on two jugs. One long move to high right hand jug and then follow the green streak up. Top is a little chossy.

Gain bulge, clip first bolt. Hard start, tend left around mini arete up to anchors. Watch for z clipping from 4th to anchors. Grade is for the start rest of climb is 16.

Gain bulge clip first bolt, shares start with GGT, tend right following crack then up though crux to anchors.

A fun variant to Knees Out. Stand start, both hands on good side pull, up to the obvious jug and finish same as for Knees Out. Look out for spiders!

Sit start matched in right hand pocket. Straight up to jugs and mantle out.

Sit start on the right hand side of Diamond. Traverse lip and top out same as First Base.

Stand start RH on okay side pull, LH on mini jug. Straight up the seam.

2m L of HITHP. One of the best grade 18's at the cliff. A little pumpy before the rooflet, but has some great moves for the grade and is very well protected.

In memory of Annabel Choy. Up steep wall to double U-bolt belay.

A steep, fun start off the ledge. 7 UBs and take a couple of slings. You can finish either L through the bulge (recommended) or R up the black slab (both variants are bolted).

Start: Belay from bolts on ledge.

Tough start.

Start: Start 3 metres left of TGWLOHH.

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

L of a couple of trees at the L end of the amphitheatre is this pleasant-looking naturally protected crackline running up the slab. With its bottomless start, it could be harder.

A great introduction to steep brooyar leading.

Start just L of the small cave, 3m R of 'Irukandji'.

Pumpy moves trending R past 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'Chironex'. Enjoy the awesome undercling feature at the start

Alternatively stick clip second bolt and start inside cave, pulling up through the roof for a slightly harder but interesting start.

Start just R of the small cave, 3m R of 'Not On Porpoise'.

Fun moves up steep rock. 3 UBs to DBB shared with 'NOP'.

Start up L side of slab apron.

Up slab then a nice layback crux through steeper terrain before another slabby section. 5 UBs, last 2 of which are shared with 'Becalmed'. Finishes at DBB shared with 'Becalmed' & 'Grey Nurse'.

This climb is actually called Stone Merino

Up and right through the overhang to the big ledge. You can also go straight up, of course, doing it the easy way. But, who would want to do it the easy way? The third bolt, hidden in a big pocket, is visible from the ledge.

Start: Start at left end of overhang below overhanging block.

Now an independent route! Starts right under ICSJ, and climbs the rings to ledge. Big, stupid runout to the third RB, before climbing straight up the white streak with a technical move near the top. Fun climbing, but beware the runouts in a few places.

Not Inspiring.

Start: Middle of right-facing wall.

Up thin crack.

Start at the corner and keep left.

nice move over the bulge and cruisy.

5 bolts to anchor 2m right of FF

Rune

Love

Compassion Boulder

Sit start

Sit start

Sit start

Rune

Protect Children

Mother Nature

Protector of Midgard

Rune

Survive

Earth History

Past, Present, Future.

Sit start

Earth- Sit start

Sit start

Sit start - Full Moon Eclipse in Taurus

Sit start

Rune

Rune

Rune - Chimney straight up, exit right

Rainbow Bridge - Bridge all the way up the path. It can be climbed bottom to top or top to bottom. Super fun

Bifrost - in reverse Bridging from top to bottom

Water -Sit start

Odins Wolf

Mother - Sit start

Sit start

Rune - Sit start

Discover the Runes to find your way through the Enchanted Forest

Eternal

Odins Spear

Rune

Rune

Rune

Rune

Thought provoking stages to a decision making arete to the anchors

Thin slab to small ledges- techy moves to anchors

Sit start to the right of School's out with left hand on pinch and right hand on crimp. Head straight up.

Sit start on the slopy crimps, up the face on slopy holds to mantle. Arete is in

Try a contrived line eliminating the arete using only the face holds.

Sit start R on big crimp and L on rail. climb up the face keeping right a bit then top out.

Stand start on two mono pockets, up and slightly right on good pockets to mantle.

Stand start with your feet on the good ledge, work your way to the side pull and mantle.

Towards the left side of the cliff. The line of Fixed Hangers (glue-in bolts) ending in a double ring bolt belay. At about half-way, step right to gain juggier features to the top.

Sit start in underclings. Move to rail then arete and top out at highest point on boulder

Triangle

A link up taking the line of least resistance. Start as for Squealer, crossing Slider and finishing up Procrastinator.

1. 30m (15) 11 bolts. Starts about 30 metres to the left of the access track, marked with a 'T'. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

2. 15m (17) 7 bolts. Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

3. 15m (18) 6 bolts. This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

4. 20m (15) Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

5. 30m (16) Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

Start: At the belay anchor at the top of Troposphere's first pitch.

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring some medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing.

Start: At The Court Jester's anchor.

Head into corner and up for 3m. Step R for 3m underneath suspended flake. Up for 4m and finish as for pitch two of The Court Jester.

This route starts from Divergence's anchor.

Take the shallow corner, right, following the bolts, then up left, to a small ledge (rejoins the 17 here) & up to another ledge, from where you should be able to see the Caritas anchors and orange corner. Follow the FHs to the anchors at the start of Caritas.

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

1. 20m (14) - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

2. 30m (16) - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.

3. 25m (18) - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (crux) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

4. 15m (15) - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

Starts at the base of Dreadnought's eighth pitch.

1. 55m (18 crux) - Instead of climbing left into the groove, veer right and climb low-angle slab to stance (poor gear - green Alien, #3 Peenut). Hard layaway rock over to good crimp. More committing moves with danger of a ledge fall, then good jug. Crack above takes med cams. Moderately up good slab to a peg in pocket. Hard pulls on good holds through bulge to crack (med-large cams). Follow easing line up intermittent crack to belay on ledge (peg, cam, wires).

2. 20m (10) - Veer left up slab to join original.

Starts 5m down right at the very easy looking slab. Spot a high first FH. Lower off