Ascents in Toohey Forest having Beta

Really enjoyed this, should have tried it earlier

Finally sent after 3 sessions - changed beta completely and started from contrived start

Sick line, good progress on first session.

Far more enjoyable than I'd given it credit for earlier. I'm excited to find out what Left of Ferns feels like (pump-wise) when doing the whole traverse.

I'm strangely nervous, finally logging the tick rather than an attempt. This has been a year-long experience; first tries were 18th June 2023. The process became something of a comfort, and I never felt frustration or undue pressure to send quickly. I feel I've shared a special relationship with the rock, and that in itself is precious to me, rather than the send. I think sending became less important the longer time went on. I'm certain I could have topped it far earlier if I'd gone after it more consistently in mid-2023, but actually the length/depth of the experience has been one of the most enjoyable parts of it. Thanks Jack for sharing bits and pieces of this journey - I'm glad I had your support last night!

Got it! Enjoyed this. Fantastic problem!

Nailed dyno, failed mantle. Next time!

Finding the right foot made a world of difference

terrifying slab

Doesn’t feel great with tape but couldn’t sacrifice the skin today. Continues to allude me

Day flash, much easier when cold

Pretty class movement for a short sharp softish V4.

Goes to show the conditions do matter. Sieged this thing over summer with Declan and it did legitimately feel at least a grade or two harder.

Came back today on a cool morning and sent it first go, first climb of the day. V6 does feel appropriate when the conis are good.

Lots of people on this today.

Long day. Started climbing 7:30am, left at 1:30pm. Paced myself and managed to put a lot of practise time into the individual moves. Slipped off going to lip on best attempt.

Almost!

Cleaned it up and the puzzle pieces revealed themselves. Not a bad climb at all! Some good hold variety.

Onsighting the slab at night had me shaking in my boots. Superb, 10/10 would climb again.

Best climb in the forest - I've always said it

Made the mantle infinitely harder than necessary by not seeing a hold

Finally got the tick on this classic after many-a-session. Condies were perfect. Thanks to Jack for real time foot placement beta

I can't believe it's not Butter Me Up (i.e. eliminating the artificial pocket left and the undercling right)

Personal Grade - V7/+?

Done the "original" way without using the drilled pocket out left or the undercling to the right. It's a dramatically better climb without imo.

This has been by far my longest project for a boulder, with probably 6-7 sessions over the last month and a bit. A long time was spent figuring out the subtleties of the moves, which may have been worse for me (195cm all torso, 201cm wingspan, quite difficult to be on the feet but still under the slopers).

Throughout the projecting process it felt as punishing as other V8s I've tried (which would be consistent with the original grade) but once all the subtleties were figured out it felt relatively easy moving statically through the slopey&shouldery sequence which is a definite weakness.

Really fantastic climbing and everyone who has done it with the undercling should try without as it climbs a lot better (but harder) using the original holds.

Arguably I now have beta for the whole climb, although I'm yet to stick two of the moves. Beta may yet change a little.

Ryan being the good sport that he is suggested that I see how many times I could send this before he got it...

PS this is the most underrated problem in the whole forest.

From the gfb start

Contrary to previous times I've pulled on, I could actually pull my ass of the ground for a couple seconds. Feeling like I ought to give it some attempts! Great to watch the gents get some tops, awesome Sunday.

Stumped as to why I keep fumbling this thing. Maybe patience will help. Next time.

One move wonder, but pleasant moves on interesting and great rock.

Great problem that is unsuspectingly long! Great work Nick!

After 13 sessions, the shoe did not slip!

This thing is nails in my opinion, yet on the day it felt reasonable. It’s always hard until it isn’t, still pretty hard though…

One step closer to getting sponsored by Hiking Brewing Co

Warmup before watching Gus send shoe slips. Class session lads!

I prefer this to the UtD, cool climb!

Repeated twice

Lovely solo sesh, first dedicated session on this and I have it all in overlapping sections, excluding the top which I wasn't game to try with my old mats and no spotter. Hit the first move first try today too, feeling strong!

2nd V6 and I am psyched. Very beta intensive, great climbing, worth the skin. Thanks to Albert for the chats and the vibes. Amazing to see how many different methods there are.

Got the second move! Psyched. Feels close which probably means its about another 5 sessions away.

Happy to day flash. Always great.

I still really like this one. Satisfying sequence.

Lovely to manufacture psych at the base of this,that horn - contender for best hold in all of Tooheys?

Cool problem, limited attempts on those sharp holds but surprised at the lack of attention given proximity to chug!