Routes in Toohey Forest

Start in the corner on good feet, easy holds to top out

Two finger hold up high for R and small L sidepull at start. Throw high to L and then large hold, easy top out.

# Important to have long R arm for sit start.

Follow the prominent arête up on large holds.

Start just R of 2 and throw high to good holds.

Traverse from L of Long Right Arm to The Nose . Also done in reverse or laps. All the top holds are not allowed to be used.

Large holds to top out

Start on crimps and throw to large ledge and top out

Start left of 'easy' with a right hand gaston in a good pocket and left hand directly above the right in another pocket/sloper. Feet on the good rail with your ass on the rock on the ground. Traverse right making use of the pig snout hold and finish on 'one move'.

Simplified "lady" version of Creepy Crawler: Right hand starts in the cave and left in the crack on the face, followed by a left heelhook to push up and follow the crack all the way to the top.

Amazingly cut route which starts deep within the cave and follows a perfect looking crack which eventually sucks you out and tops out nicely. Same route could be done with a two hand crack start for a V5.

On the right corner of Creepy Crawler: start with feet on the bottom of boulder with hands on the upper lip, scramble over keeping on the corner. Nice easy warm up or kid climb.

Left of Creepy Crawler: Start with feet on bottom of the Boulder with hands anywhere low except the Creepy Crawler crack, that is out. Scramble up and over, try aim for the indent V left of the Creepy Crawler crack.

Start as per Ant Boy but continue to traverse left along rail and top out at far left.

Sit start with right on big jug and left on sidepull. Straight up arête and top out.

Sit start. Right hand on slopey lichen rain just above overhang. Left hand on crimp 30cn diagonally up and left. Feet in break. Move straight up on crimps then mantle. Do not traverse left into jug of Ant Man. Beware that 4th hold is flexing. Likely needs to break then send with what remains. Grade likely to end up around V5 or V6, but would be higher or lower depending on how things play out.

Slightly L of overhang, using prominent holds on overhanging boulder

Straight up overhang to jug and hard mantle out

Straight up R arete of overhanging boulder

Starting as per AETSS, but traversing left along the lip up the hill.

As the name suggests, great holds down low to launch up to the lip for an easy top out.

Go where you want!

Very easy arete, which can be used to get off rock

Sidepull up to hold and slopers

Standing start up slopers and crimps

Standing start up slopers and crimps

Prominent holds straight up and mantle out

An unlikely gem on the worst looking patch of rock around. Sidepull, cobbles, jug, mantle

cleaned, chalked undercling next to snakeskin. Perhaps a one-move boulder

Sit start on lower left bulge. Right hand out right to obvious pocket. Cross left over to bulge at lip. Match then surprisingly difficult mantle.

Small cave above snakeskin boulder, from which its namesake emerged. Unknown route history

start at upper right. traverse down and left on face holds and finish up niceneasym

Sit start at the round arete. One strenuous move off the ground brings you to the jug beneath the small roof.

Straight up the large gap in the middle of Reclining Buddha. Try without using hands.

straight up

A nice easy warmup

straight up

Traverse the length of the Buddha from right to left. Nice easy start staying low across the largest face, move across the first gap and then stay under the top of the boulder. Keep moving along until you get to the next gap and then go under last overhang to finish up easy crack.

Sit start on the far left of the boulder on the cool block feature. Arrange your hands and feet correctly and you'll be able to pull up and mantle over in one swift movement. Short but fun.

Sit start matched on a gritty but decent sloper protrusion on the left side of the blunt arete. Move up to crimps for the left and then right hand, then mantle using decent side-pulls on the lip. Has nice rhythm, though the footholds are sandy.

Most obvious line on the boulder. Sit start with both hands in the juggy break. It's tricky to find a comfortable starting position for the first move, but trust me it exists!

Sit start on the far right side of the boulder. LH in the big obvious pocket, RH on a decent hold at about the same height. Some satisfying moves through decent incut crimps up to a pleasant mantle.

Iain Hunter

Establish on the face of Apollo, then either "climb" straight up (dead easy) or try ascending it without the aid of hands (definitely possible but not easy unless you're Johnny D.).

Stand start in the middle of the boulder, which is blank. Use a low RH palm-down and LH on a massive jug sidepull to establish and then move to the lip. Either mantle straight up (good luck, no footers), or traverse left into The Face of Apollo and finish up that.

Sit start on the two most amazing incut jugs in the entire forest. Pull up and execute an easy slap for the lip, then mantle. Fun but oh so short.

Climb up the lift side of the front-facing slab, fairly straightforward with high starting holds. Becomes much harder if you choose to start with mid-height or low hand holds.

Climb up the right side of the slab. Head-height starting hands are nice, but go lower if that works for you.

Sit start around the right side of the boulder. About V1 to pull off the ground using a LH high pinch and heel hook. RH low on a good hold. Once established it's smooth and easy to the top.

Start just R of tree. Straight up to mantle.

Start halfway between 'Left' and 'Right'. Straight up to mantle.

Start at arête on R, closest to the bridge. Straight up to mantle.

Start at "Right", with right hand on the mini jug in the small overhang, and left hand on the crimp up and to the left, left leg flagging. Several moves up slopers, then a tricky traverse all the way across to the tree to the left of "Left" and top out. Keep below the top until the finish for legit V3.

Start at on large holds just L of overhang and straight up to mantle.

Start at Jacked and move out R along shelf and straight up over the 9 painted onto the rock.

Start in cave below the painted 9 and move up to R without using large boulder to the R. Straight up arête above painted O.

Elimination traverse route. Start low at Jacked and move right to good L undercling at ceiling base. Route trends under ceiling to reach hold directly above painted 9. Finally, stay on overhang to Climb 10 arête top-out. L shelf ledges used in the traverse routes are out to keep low feet/hands as V3; R boulder out like Climb 10.

Start as for Climb 9 but continue traverse around to the right to top out as per Climb 10 on the right arête. The lower right boulder is out.

The namesake fern is dead - maybe squashed by boulder mats

Good holds to top. Try not to grab the small tree.

Interesting sit start from 2 small holds and throw to inset jug. Then good holds to top.

Start left hand in 2 finger pocket, right hand on slopes crimp, throw over the lip and mantle

Great climb that uses each of the best segments from this rockface. Start as Fern. Traverse across rock face until left hand in Pocket from Pocket Pullin. Finish with mantle top out.

Can be made more difficult by not using roof for traverse.

Easy start and then find holds to L to get over the bulge.

Start standing with hands on sloper and crimp, swing up a heel and mantle

Sit start under roof, with tricky side pull to mantle.

Start with hands in the break. A nice undercling and high feet will allow you to reach past the blank looking rock. Trend left via rail and use the good sidepull to mantle.

See that horizontal human bodywidth sized slot to the right of Smeegle that opens up into the cave? You know what to do. Squeeeeze! Inside to outside is easier.

Starts at the little cave on the undercling, then traverse out left till you run out of holds. Head straight up the slopey top-out.

LH undercling and RH on small hold just below the lip to start. Move up via slopers, mantle over the bulge and top out straight up. The block to the right is out.

Short climb straight up small flake to good edges.

Start to R of 'Flake' on large crack and straight up

Start at 'Crack' and traverse diagonally up to the R and out.

Standing start at painted 6 and go straight up.

Start at painted 8 and go straight up or to make it harder, traverse to the L and up (V1). Alternately, move to the far left holds

Start at turkey walk in the park and traverse right avoiding the top lip until you reach the top out between cramped and staghorn. There is an interesting thumb press on a pebble to gain better feet. Soft for the grade if you are taller. Anything below the top lip is in.

Sit start just R of tree. Straight up using large ledge.

Sit start R of 'Turkey Walk In The Park'. Straight up without using large ledge.

Standing start R of 'Turkey Slap' and straight up.

Standing start R of 'Consumer Culture'. Straight up using flake.

Sit start off 2 slopey slits under staghorn fern to finger pocket. R hand to sidepull pinch, throw L to big jug and top out to L of fern.

Standing start R of 'Staghorn' and straight up.

Follow crack, jamming practise or layback to top

Start in between 'Climb 13' & 'Climb 14', using ledge to balance/throw to the top and mantle out.

Start just L of 'Humped' on wall edges and throw to rail with L hand. Mantle out.

Start on inside holds to prominent R corner ledge without standing on the ledge below! Find other crappy holds and hump your way out without using the boulder to the R.

Start to the right of "Humped" in the corner crack at the back of the roof. Follow this along optional handjams and fingerlocks, using both boulders to topout below tree.

Start to the left of "Mantle" on rail and and a cooool throw out left to corner hold. Top out without using the tree, or the left boulder.

Start on small edge and go straight up to mantle

Start under roof on large block, then up through slopers to mantle-y finish. Short, but interesting.

Jug up to the ledge and holds below undercling and mantle out using hold to left.

Same but go right at the mantle

Left of 2, really shitty bumstart on L arete, using large jug to lever up to large holds and easy slab. Only 1 hard move

Start at 1 and move R and then straight up to easy slab out

Traverse right from 1 to 4 on low holds and top out

Bumstart up to small hold near thin crack and moving up and to the left

Hand on ledge to large R sloper or sidepull, Straight up flake

Start on large cobble sidepull, up a short way to good L crimp and good R hand rail. There is an undercling for the L hand and reach up with R hand to ledge, then go for roof and top out.

Up roof

Around the corner to the R is cobble start up to large pebbles sticking out of rock on ledge. Throw L hand up to good rail and go to roof for mantle out.

Start on L arête and the top out is a little more difficult than the others.

Start just L of Holy and good holds all the way up.

Start just L of Juggy and good holds all the way up.

Start on R arête next neighbouring boulder. Good holds all the way up

Start above creekbed around arete to L of 'Cobble Face' on the rail with feet on the small boulder underneath. Throw up to hold high to the R and then L to large flake (glued). Straight up and over the top there is a good L finger hold and R edge