Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Area A | |||||
V0 | Slab Stand
Stand start and straight up. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Treeson Season
Stand start. Right hand moderately high in slopey crack. Left hand far left on opposing sloper divot. Right foot on prominent footer. Establish. Avoid excessively padding the rock on the ground as this makes establishing easier. Head straight up. An alternate start on small crimpy chockstones may be possible. FA: Jack Mullaly, 28 May 2023 | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Cirque du Soleil
Sit start on the big hole low. Trend left through big hold to sloper slapping through a pinch on the arete. FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
V5 | ★★ Trapeze Artist
Start on undercling under roof, up to positive hold and reach for high sloper on the lip. FA: Brendan Heywood | 3m | |||
Link Project
Link start of 'Trapeze Artist/Undercling Start' with finish of 'Cobble Start'. | 5m | ||||
V6 | Cobble Start
Start on cobble and undercling. Up on edges. | ||||
V4 | ★ Juggler
Sit start just right of Cobble Start with left hand on the large pebble, and right hand on the side-pull rail. Once you get your but off the ground, head up and left on slopers and small crimps out left. FA: Alex Mougenot, Jun 2022 | 3m | |||
Circus Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Acrobat
Start with the L foot either left of the tree on a good foot hold or for the shorter climber right of the tree on the low poor lip. Left hand on the high good ridge and right hand low on the large hold at the base of the boulder's lip RHS. Find your balance points and up you go. FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ The Acrobat Sit
Good value sit start. Start on low good edge and up the Acrobat on slopey crimps. FA: Alex Mougenot, Aug 2020 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ The Reverse Acrobat
Starting with the right hand high on the good sidepull, left hand low at the bottom lip of the boulder stand up, use your feet and gain the good holds at the top lip. FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
The reverse acrobat sit start (project - open)
There looks to be a tough sit start version to the reverse acrobat. Felt tough but possible. Set: Jack Mullaly, 3 Aug 2022 | |||||
V4 | ★★ Tumbler
Sit start with hands in the good crimp and opposing undercut beneath it, powerful move to the juggy shelf above. Left hand around the corner to the left and gain the top. FA: Nick Foulds, 12 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Contortionist
Interesting balance point sit start with a good R hand side-pull. From the start figure out your way directly up the face to the lip. Careful spotting may be wise if you are uncertain on this one. FA: Nick Foulds & Tatiana Proboste, 12 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | Contortionist Squeeze
Start both hands on small ledge to right of main ledge. Move up right hand side of boulder without touching Contortionist rock to right. For harder variation, start as per Tumbler. | 3m | |||
Above The Circus | |||||
V1 | Undercling Mantle
Left hand starts at end left of belly height undercling. Right hand starts to right end. Feet on low ledge (may be obscured by leaves). Throw right hand and mantle | 2m | |||
V2 | Sloper Mantle
Start bunched low at arete. Left hand in side pull pocket on face. Right right hand side pull around corner. Left foot low ledge just above ground. Right foot on edge around corner. Throw left to sloper top and mantle using only slopes for hands. Eliminates pockets near tree and above arete. | 2m | |||
V1 | Mantle Any Way
As per sloper mantle but using available pockets. | 2m | |||
V1 | Centre Stage
Both hands on diagonal shoulder height rail. Feet on low ledge to right. Move up via obvious ledge and then to obvious edge on top. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Across The Stage
Both hands sidepull right arete. Feet as necessary on low right ledges (do not use boulder to right). Traverse left using the main 'centre stage' ledge on the face. Mantle far left side where boulder is lower | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ A Less Than Graceful Exit
As per across the stage but mantle highest point of boulder to left of 'centre stage'. Slopers only on top for hands. No use of features. | 2m | |||
V1 | Left Of Stage
Start at far left of boulder. Left hand side pull. Right hand sloper on low left top edge. Feet on low left edge. Head right and top 'a less graceful exit'. | 2m | |||
Project
Sit start. Left hand on 4 finger edge. Right hand side pull prominent low feature. Feet smear as required. Up from there. | |||||
V2 | ★ Sideshow
Both hands on small lower shelf. Feet smear face below (do not use left ground level shelf). Mantle first step. | 1m | |||
Avalon | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Arthur
Sit start on two moderate crimps. Left hand is 30cm right of the fern. Right hand is a further 30cm to the right. Find feet... Lunge right for first small jug, continue along above the "cave" turn the corner and finish using the lip at the top. FA: Nick Foulds, 3 Apr 2022 | 4m | |||
V2/3 | ★ The king rides at midnight
Sit start. Right hand on low side pull. Left hand on high pinch. Pull on and throw right hand to sidepull jug just to let of the start of Apples. Top out as per Arthur. | ||||
V0 | ★ Apples
Around the corner from the start of Arthur in the alley formed between avalon and the boulders above/behind. Start low left on the two juggy horns and head right avoiding the top until the last half meter of the boulder. At his point top out. Feet off the floor at all time! if in doubt, higher feet! FA: Tatiana Proboste, 3 Apr 2022 | 5m | |||
Warmup Boulder | |||||
VB | The Far Side
Climb up L of the staghorn on the downhill side of the boulder. A nice little slab to get your confidence up if you're new to the game! | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Meteor
Sit start. Follow pockmarks straight up the face and top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Meteoright
Start as for Meteor. Traverse to the right before topping out on Galaxy. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Galaxy
Sit start with right hand on side pull and left on crimp. Throw right to high pocket and top out through the smooth blankness. | 3m | |||
Chug | |||||
V2 | ★ Brèf
A short, punchy problem. Sit start using low crimp and high sidepull. Engage, pull in and pounce to the lip. You may need to dig your footers out from under the leaves! FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Arete and traverse
Traverse up the L arête and traverse L | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ If the Shoe Slips
Improbably blunt arete. Start on good R ledge and undercling up using L edges and high slopers. Harder for short persons. FA: Geoff | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Karate
Start R sidepull up to L hold and mantle out on slopers | ||||
V5 | ★★ Gaston
Start with L on positive gaston and right on sidepull. Big throw to lip and mantle. | 4m | |||
V9 | ★★★ The Plum
Start bunched on low edges, aiming for high sidepulls and mantle | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Rick White Problem
Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect! Set: Rick White | 4m | |||
V11 | ★★★ Pickup line
Links 'Gone for Borneo' into If the 'If the Shoe Slips' FA: Oliver Miller, 2011 | ||||
V10 | ★★ Gone for Borneo
This climb has a confusing history which had an original description of '??' . General consensus is to start at "Bulge" and traverse left with hands going up over the lip at "The Rick White Problem", then back down at "The Plum". Ends with mantling and topping out as per "Gaston". A power-endurance test-piece FA: Tom O'Halloran | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Sloppy
Start on sidepull to slopers, to good hold and out to left | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Bulge
Right pinch on the bulge, up with left and then tenuous mantle | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Groovy
Start on good holds on prominent bulge under and to the L of the high ferns. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★ Groover
Start just right of 'Groovy'. Move straight up to ferns using small holds and crappy ridge before traversing left into 'Groovy'. This section of rock is now fairly overgrown with moss, lichen and the fern. | 4m | |||
V5 | Magic Baguette
Start at Groover, then traverse right across slopers and top out to the right of the ferns. Looks impossible, but believe! FA: Alexander Mougenot, Aug 2020 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Spork
Crouch start 2m left of Chopsticks matched on left-most hold at the lip. Punch up right for slopey crimps and massive sidepull, then mantle. Traverse right and topout to the right of the fern. | ||||
{FR} V5 | ★ Chopsticks
Sit start on sloper/pinch, L up to sloper and continue on up. Top out any way you like.This is an eliminate which does not use the big flake/slopey jug hold on the right. Everything else is in | ||||
V5 | ★★ Layaway Traverse
Traverse L to R starting at Spork layaway and traversing all the way to Funk arete to top out. This traverse can also be done R to L and is slightly harder. "There and Back Again" begins below Funk Arete, does the R-L traverse to the Spork layaway, then returns L-R all the way back again to finish up Funk Arete. V8/grade 29 (maybe harder with the broken hold). With 30 odd moves more of a route than a boulder problem! | ||||
V2 | ★ Bulbous
SS. Pull up, slap to large sidepull then throw for bulbous sloper and mantle. For 4 Vermin points instead, crank directly straight up to the bulb. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Rail throw
Sitstart as low as you desire under blunt arete, up and L to awesome rail, top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Funk arete
Start on good right sidepull, up and bounce across L to rail, then top out straight up or up R. | 3m | |||
Unleash the Dancer Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Toby's slab
Sit start next to large sidepulls, using crimps and crappy small slopers to good hold at crack. | 2m | |||
V1 | 1 (area B)
Stand start. Small sidepulls up to crimpers and good holds at the top. Brush the footholds at mid-height if you value dry underpants. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Old Habits
Sit start L of Nun's Vagina on the crimp rail beneath the small rooflet, then bust out left and up. Going straight up the blunt arête will be contrived, hard, and fun! | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Nun’s Vagina
Sit start straight up crack using both sides. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Human Race is Lost
Sit start near large starting jugs, near crack. Throw to ledge to the R. Set up for layback up high to the small L hold. Moving up slightly to the R for top out. FA: Bruce Taylor | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Human Race Returns
Start as for HRIL, moving the RH up to the lip and then the LH to the (now broken) high side pull. Continue straight up for a more pleasant final top out than HRIL, using only small face holds to the right of the Nun's crack. FA: Iain Hunter, 20 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Even Vegans Hate Mosquitos
Start on the crystally, sloper-crimps with feet on the gravelly shelf, then power up through gritty slopers to the ledge. Sharp, short, and nuggety goodness. FA: Alex Mougenot, Apr 2020 | 4m | |||
2 project
There may be a gem buried beneath the moss ... | |||||
V3 | ★ Smoke and Mirrors
Start bunched in low break. Out to lip and throw right for decent hold. | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Broken Glass
Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Fat Man Traverse
Start as for Unleash the Dancer Within and traverse L the whole way, topping out at Smoke and Mirrors. FA: simon moses | 5m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Fat Lip Traverse
Traverse the entire lip of Unleash the Dancer boulder from right to left. Start as for V2 Traverse, finish as for Smoke and Mirrors. This is essentially Fat Man Traverse with an easier start. FA: | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Unleash the Fat Mat
Start as for unleash the dancer and finish up the fat mat traverse. A nice more sustained variant with a bit of a sting in its tail. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Midnight Nachos
Start as for unleash the dancer, but instead of heading left get a high heel hook and blast straight up. FA: Bryson Klein, 11 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Unleash the Dancer Within
Start under roof on undercling. Long throw with right to jug at lip. Aim for high left pocket or straight up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Even Shorter Traverse
Start as for 7 Short Traverse until before the widest part of the rail, and go up via a high small left hand sloper. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ V2 Traverse
Start on the right, traverse across on good rails and head halfway across the lip via a cool pocket above the largest part of the lip. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Fat Mat Traverse
Start on right, finish up #4. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ 8 straight up (area B)
| 2m | |||
Jack Hidden Boulder | |||||
V1 | Arete
Straight up left arete from a sit start | ||||
V1 | Face
Standing start straight up face | ||||
V0- | One Move Wonder
Palm off for left and crimp for right at sit start to large holds and then straight up | ||||
Cobble Slab | |||||
V0- | Prom crack
Straight up, using crack, prominent holds | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Slabby cobbles
Standing start up slab and using cobble. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Cobbly slab
Standing start and straight up using slab and cobble | 3m | |||
Chockstone wall | |||||
V3 | ★ Drail left
Start on diagonal rail and throw to left hold and mantle out. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Drail right
Straight up to good hold from diagonal rail, mantle out without using R foot on neighbouring boulder | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Slice & Dice
Start with both hands on the ledge under the moveable chockstone (which is now gone?), then straight up left onto the next ledge to match. A thin traverse follows along the obvious horizontal crack until you reach the ledge far left on the boulder face. From there straight up to the top. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Chockstone
Undercling the movable chockstone and use it to top out (chockstone removed/missing/long gone). Well harder now. | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Chockstone traverse
Start where chockstone previously sat and traverse R, finishing up 'Squashed Rat'. | 4m | |||
V2 | Squashed Rat
Start on small flake and throw to large L rail and then high R hold, large L sidepull for top out. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Sarong
Straight up, using the L arête and flake to the R. Mantle out. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Flup
Straight up, using only the flake to top. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Pledge
Large pocket for R hand and large ledge for foot hold, L on flake and then throw R to top. Large holds over the top. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ All About Girth
Sit start low right with 2 jugs, traverse left on rail, throw to high sloper and mantle out. Set: Rob Medlicott, 2013 FA: Elijah Van, 2013 | 4m | |||
Pebbled slab | |||||
V0 | ★ Hillbilly Helm | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ L Arete
The L arete. Start low on decent R sidepull and L hand undercling the rail. L foot on low ledge. Get established and pop to good holds and topout to R FFA: 1985 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Break and Grate
Stand start with high foot on the only good pebble. Balancy moves to a high mono. FFA: 1985 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Multimodal
Sit start under the right corner of the boulder. Use the shelf above the floor for starting feet along with the large right sidepull at the same height further right. Left hand starts with a sharp slopey pinch with a good pocket for the thumb. A difficult throw to a reach crimp rail and some footwork allows you to gain the sloper above. Struggle here for the sequence that gives you footing to go for the top. | 3m | |||
V1 | Crazy Forlornly
Sit start. L hand sloper, R hand blocky pinch. Feet on shelf underneath. Hard grunt to get up then R foot to low R footer and up via sidepulls. FFA: Peatey & Matt Langley, Feb 2016 | 2m | |||
Little Boulder | |||||
V0 | Left
Sidepull up to prominent pebbles and straight up face. FA: Jack Watson | 2m | |||
V0- | Right
Straight up using pebbles to large holds at top out. | 2m | |||
DK Boulder | |||||
V0- | Shrink
Good holds up to small fig tree (do not touch roots) for easy top out. | 3m | |||
V0- | ★ Too Drunk to Fuck
Start at crack and up R for nice flake, then follow crack up and out. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Pinch and a Punch
Start low L on sharp pinch and R on deep side pull. Up on slopers and then traverse L to some good small pockets and top out. FA: Tom Reid, 2012 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Lee Harvey Oswald
Up slopers then veer right around ferns. FA: Brendan Heywood, 2012 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Underworld
Stay low off undercling, with long reach to good sidepull, then balancy traverse moves through more slopers. FA: Brendan Heywood, 2012 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Soup is Good Food
Sit start R of 'Nazi Punks, Scram' with hands on good holds and both feet on big holds out to the L. Reach for large R hand sloper. Good hold for L hand and straight up. | 2m | |||
V0 | Nazi Punks, Scram
Start R of vegetation and straight up. | 2m | |||
Area C Highball Boulder | |||||
8 project
High ball |