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Redcliffs
A sandstone cliff hidden in the bush at the foothills of Toowoomba west of Brisbane. Development started in 2000 driven primarily by Phil Box and Lee Cujes. A guide is available on www.qurank.com |
TR Boulder
This was previously a no bolt zone due to the height and also the bomber tree at the top. Most of the routes have now been bolted and there are a number of DBB at the top. |
TR Boulder |
19
★ Grunt
First obvious crack problem |
22
Dunno
A one move wonder, but what a move! Hard, technical face with big hueco immediately to the right of Grunt |
14
★ Layback Overhang
Layback up the curved flake to ledge and small overhang. Continue easily to the top |
Hard Won (open project)
A hard but contrived arête which uses only the most difficult moves |
17
★ This Won
Face climb just right of arête |
16
★ Other Won
Face and thin crack climb up the easiest line on the face |
20
★ Which Won
Up thin crimpers and side pulls to smears avoiding the easier crackline of Other Won. |
13
Blocky Won
Chimney at end of face |
Orange overhang
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
Orange overhang |
16
Decrescent
Up smooth wall (SLCD’s) passing ledge (#4 SLCD) to top section with RB. Tricky mantle finish. Tree belay. |
20
★★ Superman And Cereal
Bouldery bright orange start past low RB, then trend easily R (small SLCD) into corner. Up this (RB) to sit down on ledge. Lean across L under roof (gear), then blast through, and up the nice crackline to ledge. Walk off L, or climb the line behind (the “Lessee” Finish) to top of flat platform. |
19
★★ We're Here To Put The Fun Back Into Fundamentalism
Nice sport climb up some awesome overlaps. Start: 3m right of 'Superman' and Cereal |
17
★ Falcor
Starts about 1.5 metres to right of We're here to put the fun back into fundamentalism. Follow bolts up on the arete in the centre of the gnarly looking juggy holds and seeming blank slabs to the obvious dogs head that looks like Falcor from the Never Ending Story. Exit left to platform. Two widely spaced ring bolts for anchor to either rap to ground, bring a second up or walk off to left. |
17
★★ Orange Overhang
Good moves on pretty nice rock. The FA was done during a thunderstorm. Follow the crack system up to the big roof, to break through the weakness on the left and finish up the final short wall to the top. Don't fall off the crux on second. |
13
Orange Overhang "Lessee" Finish
As for the original to the overhang, then easily up the face left to the flat platform |
23
★★ Parthian Shout
A tribute to hard grit. See topo 2. Use two ropes. Start up Orange Overhang, then head R up the rippled slab to sitdown rest beneath the overhang. Plug in lots of gear and clip on second rope, dropping first rope. Climb through overhang and up sustained overhung line to top. |
25
★★ Revenant
Clip the bolts and up and away like a monkey who likes a little moss and technical fun. Start: get up to the break, place a cam if you think it needs it |
21
★ Little Odin
The overhung hand crack just L of the L corner at the top of the gully. Appearances can be deceiving on this one. Easy climbing down low and slab climbing up high for the top out. |
15
★★ Vee Dub
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
13
★ Erectile Cactus
6m R of LO in the R corner of the gully. Good jamming up a good crackline on good rock. Just plain good. Continue up past the mantle and loose corner system to finish. |
17
Stay Away
Further around R. The indistinct chossy arête |
Sharks fin
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
Sharks fin |
16
Pink Talcum Powder
This route starts at ground level.
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14
Swim Between The Flags
Start up the very deep chimney at head height around 20 L of Nicarete. The chimney moves are surprisingly good in spite of the white chalk dust encountered up the gulley. Busting out of the chimney head R across platform to orange chimney with bomber hard rock and wicked moves, exit chimney to be confronted with what can only be described as rubble held together with solid dirt. Ensure that no one is below whilst on this section, inspiring isn't it? Avoid the looseness by a couple of chimney moves aiming for a very large tree belay. Abseil to ground to avoid the rubble strewn exit gully. Good gear for most of the way. Not recommended for trad bumblies. |
18
★★ Habit To Kick It
There is now a line of bolts 4 m left of Nicarete which is probably this climb. About 8 ring bolts, also need a few pieces of gear unless you are very brave. |
18
★ Nicarete
Up from tree to the big orange corner, up to the right and on to the sharp arete, up to top out. 'Awesome arete' in middle of climb, definitely worth doing. One of the classics of the cliff. Start: At big tree in middle of start ledge |
19
★★ The Gutz Nutz
Trad route that is a reasonably sane outing up some nice sandstone. Start: Start about 4 or 5 metres left of 'Nicabate' |
20
★★ Nicabate
Up corners following RBs and into cracked corner system on gear and onto cracked face, up the face/finger crack to a cruel and unusual exit into a smooth groove, could be a little sandy here depending on traffic. From there up any line to the top. Start: Just before the white vertical beach look for the first ring at head height. |
22
★★ Filthy Habit
Climb Nicabate on RBs and SLCDs to the curly tree. Stretch out R to clip RB on face. Traverse 4 m directly R under the bolt (kneebars!) until you reach the holds that are good enough to pull the lip on. Pull the lip, then up the gully past the broken stump. Traverse R onto Trireme’s exposed arete and climb this (runout) to tree belay. Lots of long quickdraws prevent rope drag. The seconder must carry prussiks! |
22
★ Trireme
Start on vertical white beach between Nicabate and Via Ferupper.
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15
★ Via Ferupper
Not a bad easier route. Up the white wall passing four RBs to big ledge (with double bolt belay). |
25
★ Trident
Extend the belay down to th lip the RB r S e lower ledge. Climb L. C in the horizontal roof, and then go fo it. Out L, cranking through the lip. Climb corner above (two RB’s). |
22
★ Neptune's Treasure Chest
The second corner L from the ledge. Extend the belay down to the lower ledge. Crank through the roofy section (SLCD's) into the corner. Thankfully clip a RB on L, then good moves to top out on easy ground, then 10m of easy climbing to the top. |
21
★ P&O's Limbo Cruise
Start just to the left of Shark’s Fin arete. Make your way up the initial ramp and then head out on the L wall under the roof, spectacular moves are encountered to bust through the roof. One small loose biscuit about a foot below the roof should be avoided but apart from that the rock appears to be very sound. Plenty of great trad placement present themselves to protect this awesome outing. Finish as for Neptune’s Treasure Chest. |
P&O Direct Finish
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
23
★★ Shark's Fin
From the ledge, crank up the RHS of the orange, overhanging ‘shark’s fin’ past four RB’s. Crank through the roof, and continue up the headwall (RB’s and gear – green alien and #3.5 SLCD). |
17
★ Genesis
Starts at corner/weakness 4m R of VF. Up, then mantle awkward sloper ledge, moving up through the overhanging block system (mind the tongue orchid). Finish up the crack just to the left of the obvious corner topping out to the L of the dead tree. The top half is reputed to be very good. |
18
Little Chicken
Not good fun. Start at roof-capped gully. Climb up gully to roof and jam out L side (ouch!) onto face, up and R of bush to RB, then up R to crack to top. |
15
Ouch
Start from the belay tree on PTP ledge, which is 4m R of the start of G. Move 1m to the L and up through the obvious chimney |
24
Stricken Chicken
Only fun if you enjoy cranking off tiny holds. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB! From tree (and not using it!) up with extremely thin, long moves past RB, some gear to second RB. Climb straight up R side of second RB, gear to top. |
21
★ Variant Chicken
Avoids the hard start. Starts 2m right of SC. Rap to big tree on ledge and pre clip first RB. Up to RB, climb up and L (some gear) to RB on SC. Finish as for SC. |
Mythologica
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
Mythologica |
15
Ring Pull Coke Can
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
The next five routes are on the top portion of cliff and require abseils to access.
The next five routes are on the top portion of cliff and require abseils to access. |
15
★ Hedonistic Succubus
Belay off your abseil line. Start 2m R of pillar on L side of ledge. Mantle small ledge and place gear in horizontal crack on L. Proceed up the slight-rightwards shallow crack (small cams) to the next horizontal break and awesome pockets. Finish up the twin cracks to ledge, and top. |
16
Nihilism
Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top. |
20
★ There's Some Air Out There
Rap down onto big stance in corner. Natural belay. Bridge up short, steep corner to easy ground, before traversing R (easy but exposed) with pretty average protection in pockets to man-sized hueco on arête (good gear). Up arête to roof (RB). Kneebar to reach high up L on headwall. Up arête to tree belay. |
23
★★ Pendulus
Climbs the biggest section of roof. Access similar to TSAOT - rap down the R arête of the roof (facing out) to ledge, then walk 2m under the roof to RB belay station down low. Up start wall past three RB’s to roof. Reachy clip to RB in roof, then power to lip. Two RB’s on headwall then a loose finish. Tree belay. |
22
★ Foetal Attraction
Start at Pendulus belay, clip first ring on P and then up corner to roof. Scrunch up into the foetal position as you make your way out to the rocker blocker, try not to pull the block off into your lap whilst you pull the lip, blast up shallow chimney to top. Use extra long draws to avoid rope drag. All bolts. |
18
I'd Rather Go Climbing
Starting about 10m L of Mythologica at the big orange corner below the big roof (Pendulus). Climbs up the corner and face on good rock with just enough protection (some tricky slinging) to the ledge. Pendulus’ RB station 4m L on ledge. |
★ Unknown
Starts just right of IRGC, on the goats track underneath the large roof. Diagonally right over two carrots then back left and up over three ring bolts to chains. |
21
★★ Urban Legend VF
Full value! See topo 4. Climb the original past the bulge. Instead of going up the crackline, move up L to a RB on the arête. Up the airy arête, then climb the wall just R of rubbishy gully. |
20
★★ Urban Legend
See topo 4. Start just R of the big orange corner of IRGC. Stickclip RB, then boulder out over the void (crux). Easily up arête to ledge with daunting bulge above. Carefully crank up to clip high RB, then power through on good holds. Follow the crackline from here to the top. |
19
★★ Mythologica
A fine face climb up a sustained slab. Start on the sloping terrace beneath the slab. Crank onto the face passing a FH and gear. Up black rock on good edges passing second FH and gear to a rest. Directly up to the third FH, then great face moves on solid stone to the last FH. Think your way through the thin, technical crux tending R and up to thankfully plug gear in the breaks. Traverse R into the crackline, and follow this to the top (tree). Take a full rack including many small SLCD’s and wires. Solid for the grade. |
18
★★ Love Fighting Mood
Lovely climbing. See topo 4. Start at short corner a couple of metres R of M. |
15
★★ Successor
Start up a line and keep just to the L of B.A.S (i.e. to the right of LFM) |
15
B.A.S
This one starts from way down on the ground. See topo 4. Just guess the acronym! The big corner/gully system. Good pro all the way, but dangerously loose blocks in the middle of the second pitch. |
14
Orribillious
About 10m or so L of Cerberus. Out to the R, then up the cracked and balancy rock gully chute. Note the dangerous hanging rocks - exercise great caution here. |
20
★ Cerberus
When looking out from the top of the Mythologica Wall it’s hard to miss the impressive looking prow out L, which is split by a ledge in the middle. Cerberus climbs the lower bit, Tartarus the upper. Starts 5m L of SID. Pull up into cave and shuffle along to the end. Sit down, feet low, lean out and clip RB (if you’re scared - temp #1 SLCD in the cave roof). Crank past the RB in an airy position to break (gear). Up crack (wire) to ledge. Belay off #2 SLCD and RB |
The next two routes start from the ledge above Cerberus.
The next two routes start from the ledge above Cerberus. |
16
★★ Escape From Tartarus
Very good rock and enjoyable jamming. Access as per Tartarus. Climb the crackline 3m L of Tartarus to tree. Optional DF straight up face. |
23
★★ Tartarus
The part of Hell reserved for the punishment of the wicked. To access, climb Cerberus, or rap in. Belay off RB and #2 SLCD. From the ledge, blast up the wall in a spectacular position past three RB’s to tree belay. Scramble R to top. |
24
★ Manticore
5m R of Cerberus is a big overhang with one RB wayyy up. Monstrous stickclip, or rap in and preplace. Powerful, bouldery climbing. Once on ledge, climb wall (easy, no pro) to base of Tartarus. Belay from RB and #2 SLCD. |
Send in the Clowns
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
Send in the Clowns |
22
★ Suspended In Disbelief
The route starts just L of the second RB on the fixed rope traverse. Crank up into cave. Lean out and clip RB on lip. Monkey up into easy ground. Run up corner past tree and get situated under roof, clipping RB on bulge. A gut-busting boulder problem into the corner (#2 SLCD) and up carefully to tree belay. |
18
★★ Elysium
A very nice cruisy route taking in some lovely scenery. Unfortunately it has a dyno start which may be tricky for some. Starts at the L-end of the rope traverse. Lean out to clip RB, then dyno up and hand traverse R to pull onto easy ground (#1 SLCD). Up the slick slab (RB and big wire) to ledge (RB). Mantle, then an interesting step over the void gives a break (big SLCD) and then much easier climbing to the top. |
24
★★ The Flashing Spade
A thrilling lip-traverse variant on Elysium. Climb Elysium until your hands are on the ledge; level with the huge roof. Clip the RB, then power directly out the lip via what for most will be a huge dyno to a jug, then mantle out the prow. Finish easily as per the original. |
The next five routes start at 'ground level' in the alcove beneath the fixed rope traverse
The next five routes start at 'ground level' in the alcove beneath the fixed rope traverse |
15
Beam Me Up Scotty
Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse. Stick clip, up corner and onto face. Past another bolt and up to rap station. |
18
★★ Whistling Dixie
Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Two bolts to rap station. |
17
★ Morpheus
Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face passing four bolts. Traverse to weakness in roof and FH. Over roof past another bolt and onto rap station. |
17
A Little Bit Of This A Little Bit Of That
Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Up face a little to the left of 'Wax On Wax Off'. Clip a carrot in the small hollow then finish up 'Wax On Wax Off'. Pretty contrived, but fun. |
14
★ Wax On Wax Off
Starts at 'ground level' in the alcove directly below the fixed rope traverse Quite nice for the grade. Up the arete past two carrots and onto slab. Clip another carrot before stepping onto the face to the right and up past another 3 carrots. |
23
Nymph Princess And Instant Gratification
Start at DBB on the third height traverse near Send In The Clowns. Start is a little hinky and you need to head R from the belay before committing to the arête, the rock is better around the corner. Straight up the arête on easy ground to lip of roof, traverse left under the roof to double ringbolt belay. |
16
★★ Trapezius
This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure! |
15
★★★ Big Top
A novelty finish for Send In The Clowns which makes the route even more exciting. Instead of going up the juggy headwall, traverse L around the arête and keep traversing past an exposed step-across. Finish easily up minding rope drag. |
15
★★ Send In The Clowns
Most popular route at the cliff. Awesome positions, exposure and gear - a must-do! Starts 4m L of the double RB belay in a niche. Climb easily until the wide section narrows to a superb off-finger crack up the green slab. Climb this using the one great hand jam to ledge. Traverse L out onto the beautifully exposed orange prow posing for photos, then monkey up the buckets to the big tree on the ledge. |
19
★★★ The Grand Finale
A bold DF to Send In The Clowns. Climb the start of SITC to the stance below orange arête. Use a stick to place a thread with a long sling. Straight up the committing arête past a blue alien placement on the L. From the ledge, go straight up. |
18
★★ Black Comedy
Yet another finish for SITC. Climb the start of SITC to big ledge at the base of the orange liftshaft. Strenuously bridge up the shaft to rest beneath the roof. Swing R and climb the hand crack to the top. |
26
★★★ The Last Laugh
An outrageous and deceptive foray across Redcliff's finest orange rock. See topo 5. Climb the start of Send In The Clowns to big ledge at the base of the orange lift-shaft. Step R into the leaning flake-corner. Up this (hard) to some good holds. Traverse R along break, then straight up. |
21
★ Krusty
Just L of Desperation Prow 's ringbolted arête is a very chalked up corner. Okay, so it’s not chalk. Still, it’s a great line. The start is bouldery on thin, techy wire placements leading into the stained corner with good gear. The top section offers overhanging fingerlocks. Finish by climbing good holds on either side of the offwidth. |
21
★★ Desperation Prow
One of the best routes on the cliff offering superb climbing on excellent rock. Start at double RB belay. Climbs up left side of arête passing four RB’s before switching to the right side of the arête passing another four RB’s to top. |
23
Forrest Grunt
Stickclip high RB and power up overhung bowl. Up arête past second RB to ledge. Finish up No Idea's DF on the arête. See topo 5. |
17
★★ No Idea DF
Excellent, and definitely the way to climb it. From ledge on original run it out up the arête on L to horizontal (thank-god gear) and up arête to top. |
17
No Idea
Stickclip first RB, then climb up R of it (hard) to ledge. Black slab (two RB’s) to ledge, then up corner on gear (sling for chockstone). A #5 SLCD would help for the top section. |
14
Cracked Glass
Up the big corner. |
13
★ Pooh Corner
Up the cracked arete 1 m right of Cracked Glass, veering right under the roof. Belay from DBB or continue to the top |
21
★ Sweet Slam
The overhung arête 3m R. Reachy start (RB) past loose sandy stuff gives a RB and a crank to a ledge (sling). RB on L and easily to top. Belay and rap from RB station. |
16
★ Traverse Of The Clowns
Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short. |
18
★ Tranquility
3m R. Short face climbing up a cracked and pocketed wall on natural gear that can be a bit fiddly to place. Tricky start to first horizontal break. Place #1 SLCD and power through on crimps and small edges to good pockets and a small wire. Now it's easy face climbing on SLCD’s and small wires to the top. Double RB station. |
21
★ Cheese In My Chalk Bag
3m R at the short overhung wall. Hueco to break. Clip RB, then crimp up to pocket and ledge (place #1.5 SLCD in pocket after latching the ledge). Mantle, then easy corner on gear. You’re not doing it properly if you use the blocky footholds on the L down low. |
21
Tape Gloves De Rigueur Arête
5m R at the orange, blocky corner. Heinous hand/fist crack start (tape!) to beneath roof. Swing L through roof step L and climb the arête past a RB to a runout finish (don’t fall!). |
21
White Sands Beach Corner
Unfortunately, start as for TGDRA. Once above roof, continue directly up corner. Phil’s finest route-naming effort! |
17
★ Kaleidoscope Arête
Over the bottomless start. Step L to arête (gear) then up to first RB, then lovely climbing past the final two RB’s to the top. |
16
★ Kaleidoscope
15m L of the start of the crag. L-facing corner with bottomless start (very hard for some) above the beach. All natural gear, except for a shared final RB. |
Trad bumblies
It's a walk-in only crag, located in Lockyer Valley National Park, just down from the end of Paradise Creek Road. The main accuess issue has been a little tension from a family who live along the road, but don't let that stop you from enjoying this hidden beauty! Keep the dust down as you drive past and enjoy your day like you generally would. If confronted by the family, tell them you're aware of the conversations with the Helidon Police and will gladly call them to assist.(07) 4697 6533. Affirm that you're going climbing and remind them you care about this place as much as them. Don't hang around to listen to stories of "better access to the top of the cliff" and "vandalism and traps against them", or "climbers leaving trash everywhere and starting fires." Just throw your pack on and move along. For clarity: the road is a public road, you park on the side of the road on their neighbour, Bob Meir's property, who has given permission for climbers to walk through his block in the past - the police will verify this. |
Trad bumblies |
17
Loaded Deck
Short clean arete about 4m right of Kaleidoscope. Don't fall off... |
16
★★ Give It The Finger
Up to bulge/nose feature, around left, then up the short finger crack. Start: Obvious nose/bulge feature in the corner. |