Routes as trad in Australia

The start can be protected with small nuts, then continues past 1 carrot bolt. Shares anchors with Fedayeen

Start below the piton. Can be protected at 3m by a small nut out right. Continue straight up past piton to loweroffs.

Thin. Risky.

Another variant on Split Personality / Vital Link. Diverges from existing lines at the large ledge halfway up SP. Start either on SP or up the first two BR on Ride of the Valkyries. From SP move right on the large ledge to where the head-high horizontal crack turns diagonally upwards (to eventually form the horizontal break on the ROTV crux). Layback move up the diagonal crack. Traverse left one meter, ignoring the superfluous bolt at knee level, to stand below the shallow open book. Strenuous, balancy move up into the open book finishing as for VL.

FA 6/2/05 Ishmael, M Turner, and 3/4 Peter.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mountain-quarry-trad-among-the-bolts/

Follow playboy to top slab and trend left to reach bolts

Unprotected. As for Foul Bite but head right up blunt arête to finish.

Follow the right trending wide crack up to corner before continuing out left and up to top.

Pull up on right hand edge and left hand jug, traverse the crack line across to the right on slopers and then move up to top. No anchors up top, used static on tree way back for anchor.

Past 3 carrot bolts to a trad belay on medium cams. Very run out over easy ground to a trad belay that is safe to clean and walk off.

Follow the thin crack to the tope. Crux is about half way up. Small gear.

Thin crack on the south side of the boulder. Small gear.

As for Celestial Way but instead of traversing right go straight up, clipping the two fixed hangers along the way. Above the bulge take the thin crack to niche and fixed hanger, then move to the next large niche and another fixed hanger. Continue up crack to scoop then mantle to finish. Some wall wires or even microcams are handy.

Start per The Bite, protecting with gear. Climb to the tree and sling it. Move directly up past the tree and to the right to the single FH. Hard moves see you high above bolt, but keep climbing up easier rock to an optional cam placement and eventually the DBB.

Climb face 2 m R of Ornet, clip FH and continue up L of it. Above the grassy ledge climb the L arête of sloping, blank slab L of bush to finish. Better than it looks from the ground.

Prominent corner crack on left of cliff.

Blank corner 2m right of WAR. Move R. at ledge and up corners (crux).

3m R. of Greg's Climb is ledge 3m off ground. Boulder to ledge and climb corner to roof. Step R. to gain beautiful finger crack. Wall.

2m R of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece.

Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner.

Follow Angie to roof, then follow R line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top.

Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux.

Fingery crack 2m R of Reflections.

Nice crack up wall near corner which blanks out towards top.

Up to big ledge (poor pro, rock). Over blocks, then L to twin cracks in wall. L crack, past fig.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Back in Black'

Good, well-protected climb. Finger/hand-crack in middle of wall to shrub and ledge. Move 3m R, then crack and wall.

Line 1 m R of Eugowra. Bolts.

Sustained and beautiful; best line on cliff. Crack between two bolted routes on W Face.

Shares the same first 2 pitches as IALR, but after confirming with Noddy, the last two pitches are independent. The psychological crux is still the first chimney pitch, after this the climbing is well protected.

1. (17) 45m crack to left of Rocket Man (Ride?). Run out between last chockstone and fig tree up body chimney. Belay at stance above fig at 33m or continue through to second fig.

2. (17) 35m continue up R arcing corner to near where it diverges left. Cross slab towards large brown corner, belaying at stance below fig and L facing flake line. IALR continues up and right for its third pitch.

3. (18) 60m straight up to left facing flake and around this flake into double corner system. Approaching ledges at 60 m exit right to belay below L facing corner.

4. (19) 35m up L facing corner for 15 m, then airy hand traverse right for 20 m. Then easy scramble to top.

Unrelenting, with superb rock and good pro. Start 5 m L of North Face Spire.

1. 42 m Wide crack. Run out between last chockstone and the fig. Body chimney by this stage.

2. 38 m Corner and L face until line curves L. R to stance.

3. 36 m Corner, then R on to face. Up R to cracks and rib, then cracks to corner on R. Corner to chockstone.

4. 34 m (crux) Up to overhang, then R round arete. Up.

Sustained climb on good rock. Original point of aid (19,M1) at top of pitch one has presumably been eliminated by Keith Bell. Start 50 m R of Northern Groove.

1. 15 m Crack through bulge, then R to thread belay at foot of groove leading to roof.

2. 35 m Groove, then fine crack on L. Round blunt arête, then slab to roof. Follow roof L to base of groove.

3. Groove past ledge, then up R to stance below corner.

4. Slab R of corner then up L above corner to sloping ledge.

5. 40 m Slab on L, then through crack in bulge to big ledge. Scramble up.

Start at small buttress at R side of slabs R of Icarus buttress.

1. 45 m Buttress, then L across slab to stance.

2. 35 m Follow slab L to crack. Crack to belay.

3. 40 m Continue L until halted, then up R through bulges. Up L to semi hanging belay on good nuts.

4. 40 m R to groove, then L up groove to easy ground and top of Icarus buttress.

5. 40 m Wall, then R across bulge to main wall. Wall, then L to stance.

6. 35 m Groove to overhang, then L (poor rock} to tree at base or wide crack.

7. 45 m Crack, then grooves to easier ground.

Start 50 m R of Ulysses, below prominent groove leading to overhanging wall.

1. 45 m L-sloping ramp to stance below slab and tree.

2. 30 m Slab past tree, then corner to stance.

3. 36 m Traverse L to gully, then up R out of gully. Traverse 6 m L, then R and up to base of groove.

4. 30 m Corner to roof, then 6 m L. Through bulge, then R to groove.

5. 30 m Corner until crack ends, then L to shallow corner. Through bulge, then up L to bolt.

6. 12 m Traverse R to pillar and tree.

7. 36 m (crux) Up L to hand traverse. Move 3 m L, then steep corner. Over blocks, then past tree and large blocks to bolt on L.

8. 33 m R up wall to nose, then L and up wall.

9. 39 m Up to corner. Corner, then L over orange rock. Back R to ramp and hand· traverse in corner. Corner to large ledge. Piton.

10. Up easily.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Start R of original start Directly up to join Neruda shortly before massive gully/corner at half·height. Follow Neruda briefly, then climb directly up L of original route.

A route with a reputation. On the FA John Ewbank fell off the belay after choosing to ignore a bolt belay, placed by Allen on a previous attempt, in favour of some nuts. The nuts failed and Ewbank's fall was arrested by Allen, who was leading at the time! Then, in the early 80s, Warwick Baird fell 25 m on to his belay anchors while leading. Later Bruce Cameron took a 45 m fall while seconding after part of the ledge above the crux pitch gave way on Frank Moon. Despite such horror stories this route remains one of the finest and most popular, on Bluff Mountain.

Start about 30m right of Aladinsane, 15m right of nose of rib. Some old belay bolts were replaced 2010.

1. 27m Up crack then chimney to a small stance in a recess.

2. 36m Move right from the recess then over a bulge and a wall to reach a ledge. Traverse left to a belay beneath a slanting corner.

3. 36m Easily left, then follow a rightward slanting corner to reach another recess

4. 21m Move right and cross various ribs until a big scar is seen. (Don't go right round main rib.) Pleasant climbing straight up leads to a belay next to a 'beer barrel'. 'A truly glorious pitch' - Noddy. (An alternative pitch, directly from belay on pitch three to groove/roof, has been done at grade 20 by Bruce Cameron and Frank Moon.)

5. 36m Up and over the beer barrel then climb left to below a very loose steep corner. Up this to an exposed stance and bolt anchor,

6. 6m Technical climbing leads to a good ledge.

7. 36m Climb straight up the wall for about 12 metres to a small ledge. Move right then up short corner to roofs (Crux). Then absolutely superb climbing leads one out across the slab rightwards to reach a small roof. Over this then continue straight up wall and corner to next roof. Move left to a good stance on a little tree.

8. 30m Up slightly left, thence diagonally right to a bolt anchor on a small ledge.

9. 24m Diagonally right into a gully then up.

10. Up juggy wall to top.

11. Up.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Originally climbed at 17, M1 with two sections of aid on pitch seven.

A really class route. Follows a large corner system up between Elijah and Ginsberg. Start about 15 metres right of the bolt start of Elijah at a rightward leaning groove.

1. 50m Follow the series of grooves by zig-zagging until the slab steepens. Up over the bulge then left to a sloping ledge.

2. 50m Straight up a steep wall. slightly left then up to a large ledge. A delightful easy angled corner then leads up diagonally right. Follow this to a good tree.

3. 30m Up the corner for about 5m then follow a traverse line about 15m around an arete, up and across left to belay on a loose looking block.

4. 15m Straight up over bulges (crux), past the fixed peg to a bolt on a shattered ledge.

5. 50m Move one metre right to a small corner. Up this for 8m to a roof. Traverse right and slightly down, past a wide crack, thence continue up and right.

6. 25m Continue up and right, past the bolt on Ginsberg then up into the gully as for Ginsberg.

7-8) 100 m Up easily.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Tackles arete between Flight of the Phoenix and Elijah. Start near Xoanon.

1. 40 m Up for 15 m, then R along ramp.

2. 25 m Up, then R over block to stance.

3. 30 m Wall above through bulges, then L to tree.

4. 35 m Groove, then L and up slab. At headwall, traverse R along ramp.

5. 35 m L, then bulge to vague groove. Groove to belay on L.

6. 30 m R, then L up groove until possible to move R towards arete.

7. 35 m Wall to groove above overhang. Groove. then wall.

8. 35 m R across buttress, then up to big ledge. Now L, through bulge, up wall to bolt belay at top of Elijah pitch 12.

9-11) 95 m As for Elijah.

This route apparently climbs out of London's Dockyard, leaving that route at wall on pitch five (although there seems to be some confusion over exactly where London's Dockyard goes in the upper pitches). Approach by way of Stonewall Jackson.

1-3: 110 m As for Rebel Tour.

4: 10 m Traverse R along ledges to blocks in corner.

5: 30 m Corner, then R round block on to main face. Now slightly L up wall to small tree:

6: 30 m Traverse R to end of ledge, then up to bolt belay in corner below bulge.

7: 30 m Move L, then bulge.

8: 20 m Easily up

Wall at half height is one of the best pitches on Bluff Mountain. Start as for Stonewall Jackson.

1-8: Follow Stonewall Jackson until about pitch three. Move R to ledge below sickle-shaped roof. Continue R until below R end of roof, then R from corner. Wall above.

Looks good, follows diagonal lines of good holds and breaks. Quite runout by repute. The first pitch has had most bolts replaced. Start atop the gully/ramp leading up past Lieben on higher left end of ledge. Good wire belay. Many original carrots are now redundant with modern gear, most importantly the manky BR on pitch 3 belay.

1. 36m Up diagonally left easily for 16m to original BR a few meters left of good cam horizontal, then hard bulge up onto run-out face trending right, new bolt with fixed hanger, then diagonally right for 16m (another new FH) to new DBB (FH's).

2. 24m Diag R for 9m on small poor pro, up 3m to good gear and bolt. Up, left toward nice little ledge and bolt. A block hanging just before belay can be climbed around as it is above your belayer. Bolt redundant with higher cams.

3. 24m Diag R for 11m up ramp to bolt round a small buttress. Same rising diagonal line over blocks to manky bolt. Semi hanging belay. (Small to medium cams and #2 cam hanging belay 2m left of poor bolt).

4. 27m Right to bolt , up then left towards a scoop, then easier rock keeping on right side of 'chimney cum gully', to a good ledge, 2m long and over 1 ft wide with piton. Note: This is not the vegetated base of 'Chimney cum Gully'. Belay is higher and on right.

5. 45m (crux) Up the wall on small gully's right to 30m vertical wall. Move left, then up the wall. After moving right slightly on ramp a bolt runner is found 30 meters vertically above your second. "one could belay here in slings" ..instead continue a further 13m to a small ledge above, below a chimney. Rock knob belay.

6, 7, 8) 90m etc up chimney and slabs to a pleasant slab buttress to top.

1. 21 m Up to piton belay 12m L of The Sabre.

2. 24m Up steeply to small ledge. Piton belay.

3. 36 m (crux) Up and R, then to yellow niche with hand-crack. Now traverse 5 m L, then wall and bulge to big corner. Up

An appealing line with quality climbing. Start on the lower West Face (below the Halfway Ledge), about 2/3 way down the scree descent towards Pegasus and 60m right of that route.

1. 25m Hand traverse left onto the brown wall, move up onto block and easily left 5m to crack (runners). Climb wall on right then up groove and right wall to ledge.

2. 22m (crux) Traverse left over loose rock and up to shallow corner. Up past fig to belay below roof.

3. 22m Continue up corner to roof and traverse left onto blocky wall. Straight up superb rock to where the cliff lays back.

4. 50m Easily up the ridge to the halfway Ledge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

A barn-door layaway come crack on a short north-facing wall at the northern edge of the Tip surrounds

Lovely #3/4 crack to DBB. Can be topped out for extra cool points

Start in corner at stepped low roofs. If nervous about the large hanging block go direct at same grade. Go through second roof into finger crack that widens to body crack up left side of inset pillar. Head left onto ledge, step left a metre and finish up short chimney. Trad belay

Start at low roof, just right of ES. Stick clip first bolt near lip. Up corner and traverse right under roof to mantle Past second bolt then up left side of buttress with wires and cams to #3 through fern, passing historical piton en way. When level with top of buttress step right to Careless Fingernicker anchor.

From the top of Whinging Cripple clip bolt up and left, then step down and airily go left around buttress into a groove on its left side. Follow this to chain anchors past 2 horizontals. Good but spaced gear.

Common start as for Foctopus/ daisy diversion but continue direct up crack on left hand wall, pass belay for Foctopus, then straight up crack to top.

Up through bulge at 5m then into groove and up.

The bulging wall and incipient crack above.

Start: Left of 'The Hippy Hippy Shake'

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

The first easily accessible corner right of the undercut red section.

Start: 2 m right of the bottom of the line.

1. 20m (-) Up and left to base of corner. Up to small grassy ledge.

2. 35m (19) (crux) Up corner from right end of ledge, past overlap to good cracks. Up trending left to the V-groove capped by a triangular roof. Through the roof and up the crack in the wall directly above.

First led with the rope clipped as a runner near the top with the intension of placing a BR. This wasn't done and has since been led from ground up.

Up line on wall behind tree, 2m R of Davey. Make sure of #3 RP placement down low.

Fused corner R of tree, 6m R of Vinegar Stroke. Straight up through bulge at 5m. Crux tricky to protect but quite good climbing.

Superb climing at this grade. Steep groove 3m R of Crutchbuster. Bridge in corner to bucket on L wall and up.

Start Marked. Up crack 3m Right of Grinding Halt to same ledge then small crack corner.

8m right of Cold Shoulder. Start Marked. Up right trending crack to ledge, tricky move to crack above and up past BR.

Start: 3m left of 'Delayed Reaction'.

Up through bulge then large square roof. Take twin cracks on right side of roof and up.

Start: As for Air Raid.

1. 33m (19) (crux) Up 'Air Raid' for about 8m. Traverse left and up first crackline to the right of 'Tory Crimes', ignoring righthand branch near top of pitch. Belay on ledge.

2. 37m (19) (crux) (The Glad Bag Finish) Step left avoiding crack with vine at top, into bottomless offwidth. Strenuously up this till top of crack is almost within reach. Move left and up to ledge. Climb wall into rightward trending crack to small stance below final short crack to top.

Large tooth of rock visible above makes this one of the more obvious starts.

1. 40m (19) (crux) Up with some trepidation through small roof then up crack. Hard traverse left to go up left side of crack and chockstone to belay above tooth.

2. 43m (19) (crux) Step right into crack overcoming roof. On to easier ground.

Start: Takes the righthand branch of 'Pooh Corner'.

1. 45m (19) (crux) Up to an overhanging V groove. Through this and onto a slab on the right. Up past a small tree and continue to a good belay ledge.

2. 48m (-) Up well formed cracks to top.

1. 25m (19) (crux) Up through roof as for 'Tigger (is Unbounced)', then traverse right into next line and up to bushes.

2. 15m (-) Up to first belay on 'Guided Missile', then up and right on big blocks to ledge in short, clean corner.

3. 40m (-) Up crack passing roof on its right at 10m. This pitch takes a line between 'Pastures of Plenty' and 'Borrowed Time'.

Start: 3m right of 'White Heat'.

1. 30m (19) (crux) Up crack then take a diagonal line up to left hand end of roof then step left around the arete and up to good crack to belay ledge.

2. 50m (-) Continue up line to top.

"It had to go"

Start: 5m right of 'Iconoclast' and left of a triangular overhang.

1. 12m (-) Avoid the overhang on the left side, move right above overhang to belay.

2. 40m (19) (crux) From right hand end of belay ledge, straight up corner to obvious roof, traverse left under roof to crackline near arete, straight up crackline to belay stance.

3. 20m (-) Beautiful climbing up corner/crack to top.

The proud line, first completed route on the cliff.

Start: 25-30m right of 'Patient Scruff' below a dominating crack that splits and goes though a prow. Marked.

1. 30m (20) (Crux) Directly up 20m to roof above a big loose block. Poor protection. Swing up to an alcove and semi hanging belay.

2. 30m (-) Also somwhat difficult. A second overhang then the angle begins to ease.

3. 15m (-) Easily to top.

1. 22m (-) As for 'Twilight Time' pitch 1.

2. 22m (19) Move back right into line up to ledge where the line forks. Take the right crack to vines beside pedestal.

3. 35m (19) Jam up crack through bulge and offwidth to broken ground. Finish up chimney or cracked wall on left.

Gear to bolts and chains shared with P. start behind eucalypt just right of block and up wide crack

Initialed

An excellent crack requiring # 4 cam. Start up FF for first pitch but from belay step left from corner into crack line

Starts as for Blood on Tracks then up and R to seam on wall. 2 BRs through steep bulge on good jugs

Start as for Blood on tracks for 8 m ( gear) then step left to gain arête. Climb arête to chains. Further gear to #3 helps supplement the bolts

Up groove, poor rock, 3 m to the right of MTLG. Head into finger crack after overhang at 6 m. Up block and corner to ledge then shared finish with BFI

Two climbs to the right of 'Yummikins', on dark coloured rock. Climb the obvious crack in the centre of the wall. 'Steep' featured rock, with good gear. Trad belay.

Direct start to Swiss made, the high V corner. Start up steep crack, start now partly retro bolted by CTDB

Start 5 m right of BT where 3 dead pines are on the track to the left of a low roof. Up 8 m then step right into wider crack and up

Right of Taking Liberties where the path passes below an orange grooved buttress. This is just before the terrace appears up high. P1 Climb left line up black groove to small triangular roof with a bolt visible at 6 m. Follow 3 bolts up friable rock until into chimney. Continue up corner to Ledge and bolt belay on right. P2 follow all gear groove to chains at summit ( may be difficult to locate)

Start 15m left of cave where track meets cliff, up unprotected slab into right facing corner that continues into handcrack. New anchor 2023. A carrot protects stepping down to anchor. A good spot to abseil from on this side of the crag.

3m L of Insidious. Middle of slab, then thin crack. From Bulge, head diagonally R into Insidious and finish.

1. 25m (-) Up the wall just right of 'Gentle Giant', then veer slightly left into groove and up to ledge.

2. 30m (-) Traverse left into 'Gentle Giant' and finish up it.