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Looks good, follows diagonal lines of good holds and breaks. Quite runout by repute. The first pitch has had most bolts replaced. Start atop the gully/ramp leading up past Lieben on higher left end of ledge. Good wire belay. Many original carrots are now redundant with modern gear, most importantly the manky BR on pitch 3 belay.

  1. 36m Up diagonally left easily for 16m to original BR a few meters left of good cam horizontal, then hard bulge up onto run-out face trending right, new bolt with fixed hanger, then diagonally right for 16m (another new FH) to new DBB (FH's).

  2. 24m Diag R for 9m on small poor pro, up 3m to good gear and bolt. Up, left toward nice little ledge and bolt. A block hanging just before belay can be climbed around as it is above your belayer. Bolt redundant with higher cams.

  3. 24m Diag R for 11m up ramp to bolt round a small buttress. Same rising diagonal line over blocks to manky bolt. Semi hanging belay. (Small to medium cams and #2 cam hanging belay 2m left of poor bolt).

  4. 27m Right to bolt , up then left towards a scoop, then easier rock keeping on right side of 'chimney cum gully', to a good ledge, 2m long and over 1 ft wide with piton. Note: This is not the vegetated base of 'Chimney cum Gully'. Belay is higher and on right.

  5. 45m (crux) Up the wall on small gully's right to 30m vertical wall. Move left, then up the wall. After moving right slightly on ramp a bolt runner is found 30 meters vertically above your second. "one could belay here in slings" ..instead continue a further 13m to a small ledge above, below a chimney. Rock knob belay.

6, 7, 8) 90m etc up chimney and slabs to a pleasant slab buttress to top.

Route history

1966First ascent: John Ewbank & John Worral

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -31.33749, 148.99573

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

19 Assigned grade
private
18 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Tick 1

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Tue 13 Jun
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