Routes in Serpent

Five FH's to ledge and chains. Ledgy, awkward, but a worthy access pitch for P2. Perhaps stick clip first bolt, as the rock is a little crumbly at the start.

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

Surprisingly sustained. Climbs through an interesting roof/cave section. Four FH’s and a BR on the headwall to chains. Take a medium hex or big wire (optional).

A second pitch to the previous route. Four FH's. Beautiful golden rock. Careful on 2nd clip!

Some dodgy rock on this one, but offers some very tiny holds for you to pit your tips against. Start just right of Medusa at the slabby crack. Stickclip first bolt from chossy ledge. Hard pull straight away to chossy jugs above. Continue on thin holds (crux) culminating with some pumpy wall climbing to anchor above on ledge. The choss just below of the third bolt needs some maintenance (polyester glue smared around the parts that are crumbling).

Scary. RPs. Has a bolt up high.

Supposedly the bolting is a bit dodgy. Beware.

Has an anchor. Probably unclimbable.

Beautiful sweeping line up a thin seam. Technical and reachy.

Starts up Minotaur and moves left at first bolt and shoots left through the roof. Hard, long move on face above, before joinging into Stingray P1's last bolt. Anchor on ledge above.

Stickclip start. Up slab then ginormous undercling slap to massive jug. 5 FH?s.

Up pocketed slab to tree with lower-off. Two FH’s and gear?? I thought there should be three bolts, but I could only find the first and last FH’s, leaving a huge runout and potential groundfall.

A few metres to the left of Itchy. Will be a super sweet face climb.

Powerful. Starts about 4m L of PA. Up black rock passing FHs. Crux is around the third one. Top is runout, and finishes at PA’s chains. Never feels like a 19.

Popular. Three FH’s protect the juggy flake traverse to lower-off. Stickclip the first. Best to clean this on second.

Starts 4m L of B. Stickclip first U-bolt to protect the thin start before trending left across slab passing FH’s to stance. Now up overhanging terrain (on the right line of bolts) past more FHs and lower-off above on ledge. Really good climbing the whole way, but mind yourself between second and third bolt. Anchor could use a rebolt.

2m left of Minotaur. Up technical chimney to rooflet. Around this and up face. FH’s. Some love it, some hate it.

Up the shallow groove around the corner from the main wall. Three BR’s (hard to see!) to chains. The middle one is fat and needs a bigger bracket.

Six FH’s to finish on grassy ledge with 3 bolts. Rap or walk off left along ledge (which leads to 'The Lookout' wall). Amazing, tricky and committing climbing. You can access it from climbing Minotaur P1 and traversing left across to starting anchor, as an easier alternative to climbing Stingray P1.

Starts just left of Crimes And Punishment and traverses left on slopers and pockets.

Up the crack on wires to rooflet. Over this (FH) and up face to lower off.

Bolt protected and quite hard and a bit runout. Three FH’s.

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

Slick and devious climbing up the attractive pocketed line. Runout after the third bolt.

Technical. Starting on the pedestal 3m L of OOA. Line of FH’s up the easiest looking section. A stern crank down low leads to an intricate and excellent upper half.

Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off.

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

3m L of R. Superb orange pockets with a crux up high. FH’s. Another hard onsight!

About 15m L of The Sundog Traverse. A 45 degree overhanging line past three FH’s with a sinew-stretching final move. Harder if you’re short.

Start on ledge just after second rope. Up the lovely wall passing a FH and two BR’s to tree belay. The top section is runout.

Corner. Scary. RP's. Has a bolt up high. Grade is unknown, as it the name.

Surprisingly sustained. Climbs through an interesting roof/cave section. Four FH’s and a BR on the headwall to chains. Take a medium hex or big wire (optional).

Up Harpe for the first two FH's, then up L passing a fixed wire and another FH. Doesent get much traffic, so it's a bit overgrown.

Pocketed seam. Has a PR and a FH up high. Needs natural gear. Take care!!

A pretty average natural route put up to get to a good photo spot for Ricochet. Follows ramp right of Ricochet and then up headwall left of the top of Out of Ammo.

Starting L of Stingray’s cave. Four FH’s up the steep stuff. Tough start on tufa feature, with long moves on big holds following.

Natural pro traversing left under the flake. Starts just where the track starts to steep to the left. Finish over the top, passing a FH and belay from tree.

Unlikely and interesting climbing for the grade. Starts just to the left of the huge fangs (on U-bolt) and climbs the ramp onto slab above. Up passing U-bolts bolts into cave. Out of cave on pockets and up slabby face to lower-off (steel perma-biner). There is a #4 cam between the 4th and 5th bolt which is optional, as well as a perfect pocket to sling. .

Runout, but quite nice! Two FH’s to chains. Move directly right after Minotaur P1 anchor, up into corner. Follow line of least resistance. Can get down with a 70m if you link them.

Quite varied climbing. Bouldery start up seam onto balancy slab/corner. Contort L into finger crack to layoff though bulge, then easier slab climbing to top (station on L). Four FH’s. Please be careful clipping the second bolt, or stickclip it.

Some thin cranking. 1.5m L. Up the broken flake to balancy ledge. Hard moves pulling onto the wall (way hard if you’re short?), then up to station. Four FH’s.

Start as for OFP in scoop. Easily up slab to high silver FH, then L into corner. Up corner past two FH’s to chains. Apparently there is a large wire before anchor, decreasing the runout.

Quite varied climbing. Bouldery start up seam onto balancy slab/corner. Contort L into finger crack to layoff though bulge, then easier slab climbing to top (station on L). Four FH’s. Please be careful clipping the second bolt, or stickclip it.

Some thin cranking. 1.5m L. Up the broken flake to balancy ledge. Hard moves pulling onto the wall (way hard if you’re short?), then up to station. Four FH’s.

Easily up slab to high first FH. Carefully clip second FH zigging L then zagging back R to jug at the base of the business (FH). Unlock the first crux to stance with mono pocket and out-of-reach final FH. Now lean into the second crux before a long runout to the anchor.

Starts about 3 metres to the right of Minotaur. 1 bolt leads to steep wall. Compressive, powerful climbing follows. Joins into TG after 3 bolts and finishes up it. Sustained and powerful climbing.

Start up TSDT, and head straight up on U bolts to steep wall. Bouldery, sustained moves all the way to last bolt. Pull past the pumpy top out to anchor straight above.

Closed project a couple of meters left of 'The Sundog Traverse'.

Extension above Minotaur, on crimpy slab. Continue straight above anchor of M passing two rings, before a tricky move out right. Two more bolts straight above to chain (last ringbolt is hidden about a metre left of visible FH). You will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground. .

The current hardest route at Serpent. Stickclip first two bolts from chossy ledge. Hard pull onto wall, with continual bouldering which doesn't relent until you clip the anchor. Hard the entire way. Originally an old Aaron Jones project, until he broke the crux hold and deemed it too hard for the time. Many years have passed and it has finally seen a first ascent.

Open book corner, left of hot lead. Adventurous.