Routes as trad in Mitcham Quarries

Follow prominent crack feature trending left to an easy finish at 'No Man's Land' chains.

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

The line without a lower off. Start up EofG, then span right into the right hand crack, and finish straight up (no lower off). Superseded now by the (safer) Beg for Mercy finish.

The prominent widening crack in the centre of the wall.

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

Climbs the obvious vertical weakness to the right of Mercy Street. When it ends move slightly right via an undercling to some good side pull blocks and up. Rock deteriorates when the layaway ends. Committing runout from half way height to the very top Use caution as it's very loose.

Start in the right corner of Felch Me following the crack up to the chains.

Up just L of the big roof, around R of the block and continue in the V-corner. Take a 0.75 BD cam. A 'biner on a rope was used to lower off on the FA. Needs a bolted rap point and a little more cleaning.

Now has a double bolt belay!! Good awkward climb. Fun times

Start up the crack just right of the fish dreams roof. Clip the first bolt of fish dreams continuing directly up the crack with 2 more cam(s), clip the 3rd bolt before reaching "the boardwalk" ledge. Now with two bolt belay.

Climb the overhanging arête and up the crack to a stance at half way height. Place a cam in the horizontal then balance your way up the slab between the arête and the corner to the chains.

Caution. The first bolt is the second bolt on Felch me and the run out to the chains is committing! Two pieces of gear was used on the FA.

Start 2 meters right of 'Bomber Choss' under the obvious large sloper. Climb up the face via bouldery moves and finish as for 'Bomber Choss'. Lead using a pre-placed cam #3 in the hole on 'Bomber Choss' with a sling taped to wall - a serious undertaking!

The often looked at but overlooked section of rock on the left hand side of the quarry to the left of Urban Decay. Starts on the left hand side of the overhang in the corner. Climb the corner to a good stance under the overhang. Head out and up the face to the chains. Mixed.

Starts as for 'Old School Face Slap'. At the rooflet traverse right until you're at the obvious weakness. climb up and onto the slab and finish at Covit-22's chains.

Climbs the left hand side of the corner. Start up the very loose brittle white rock and work through the detached blocks. Once at the overhang get some jams above your head and work your way into the top of 'Taste The Pain'. Finish at the old rusty chains for the full experience. WARNING The first half is extremely loose. Make sure your belayer is anchored well left of the fall zone!

Starts a metre left of 'Taste The Pain' under the big detached block. Climb the face keeping left of the vertical sloping weakness. Once at the roof head left around it and up the corner. Pull onto the slab and traverse right and finish at the chains.

I pledge a legion to the life of the Quarryman. Do this route and you'll be a true Car Crash Quarryman! A left to right traverse of the entire quarry. The description is described with the pitches I did but the piteches can be done however you choose to do them. Gear is mixed.

Pitch 1. Start just left of 'Old School Face Slap' and traverse the underside of the overhang to the end of the big roof of Covid22. Scramble across the slab to a stance in the corner at half way height. Clip 'Fading Light's' third bolt and climb across this, around the arete. Anchor into 'Smearing on Mount McKinley's' third bolt.

Pitch 2. Climb across 'Technicolour Sunfish' keeping in in line with the third bolt. Climb through the 'Fear' crack, around the corner and above the Bee Hive (try not to get stung by any bees!) and head towards the chains of 'Stepping into the Unknown'.

Pitch 3. From here keep heading right through the high vertical cracks and around the arete. Join 'Hard Stone City' at it's horizontal sloping ledge. Downclimb this route slightly and head towards the chains of 'Rainbow Wall.

Pitch 4. Climb through 'Running To A Standstill' keeping at it's third bolt and into 'No Mans Land' slab. Keep going through the vertical crack of 'Naturalist' and into Exodus keeping at half way height of this line.

Pitch 5. Climb around the arete and into the centre of 'Sexy Love Slots' slab. Keep going at half way height until you reach the big semi detached block of 'Dont Touch Me There'. Climb under and around this, around the arete into the vertical Seam of 'Fisting A Shark' to a stance on this climbs big roof crack block.

Pitch 6. From Here downclimb 'Felch Me Directs' crack and join 'Felch Me' at it's second bolt. Climb this route into the V corner, across 'OCD' keeping just under the overlap and through the Chossy corner of 'Choss Stone City'.

Pitch 7. Climb around the slight arete, keeping in line with 'Taste The Pains' third bolt. Climb through this line and under the big roof of 'Disposable Garbage'. Pay extra caution to the blocks under here as they are loose. Climb around the corner and head for 'ELV's' chains.

Pitch 8. From here rest because the next pitch is the crux pitch. Downclimb the staircase and head through the V hold of 'Footloose', and climb 'Beg For Mercy' to the very end!

Quite a nice little route. Start Where the graffiti is and climb the left hand side of the face. Climb through the vertical finger crack and once at the top traverse right until you are at the off width. Climb this to the top. Top out. Pay caution to the top as the rock deteriorates significantly here.