Nodes in Mitcham Quarries

Easy access, short sport routes, nice sunny aspect

All routes left of Hard Stone City. Afternoon Shade.

Quite a nice little route. Start Where the graffiti is and climb the left hand side of the face. Climb through the vertical finger crack and once at the top traverse right until you are at the off width. Climb this to the top. Top out. Pay caution to the top as the rock deteriorates significantly here.

I pledge a legion to the life of the Quarryman. Do this route and you'll be a true Car Crash Quarryman! A left to right traverse of the entire quarry. The description is described with the pitches I did but the piteches can be done however you choose to do them. Gear is mixed.

Pitch 1. Start just left of 'Old School Face Slap' and traverse the underside of the overhang to the end of the big roof of Covid22. Scramble across the slab to a stance in the corner at half way height. Clip 'Fading Light's' third bolt and climb across this, around the arete. Anchor into 'Smearing on Mount McKinley's' third bolt.

Pitch 2. Climb across 'Technicolour Sunfish' keeping in in line with the third bolt. Climb through the 'Fear' crack, around the corner and above the Bee Hive (try not to get stung by any bees!) and head towards the chains of 'Stepping into the Unknown'.

Pitch 3. From here keep heading right through the high vertical cracks and around the arete. Join 'Hard Stone City' at it's horizontal sloping ledge. Downclimb this route slightly and head towards the chains of 'Rainbow Wall.

Pitch 4. Climb through 'Running To A Standstill' keeping at it's third bolt and into 'No Mans Land' slab. Keep going through the vertical crack of 'Naturalist' and into Exodus keeping at half way height of this line.

Pitch 5. Climb around the arete and into the centre of 'Sexy Love Slots' slab. Keep going at half way height until you reach the big semi detached block of 'Dont Touch Me There'. Climb under and around this, around the arete into the vertical Seam of 'Fisting A Shark' to a stance on this climbs big roof crack block.

Pitch 6. From Here downclimb 'Felch Me Directs' crack and join 'Felch Me' at it's second bolt. Climb this route into the V corner, across 'OCD' keeping just under the overlap and through the Chossy corner of 'Choss Stone City'.

Pitch 7. Climb around the slight arete, keeping in line with 'Taste The Pains' third bolt. Climb through this line and under the big roof of 'Disposable Garbage'. Pay extra caution to the blocks under here as they are loose. Climb around the corner and head for 'ELV's' chains.

Pitch 8. From here rest because the next pitch is the crux pitch. Downclimb the staircase and head through the V hold of 'Footloose', and climb 'Beg For Mercy' to the very end!

The often looked at but overlooked section of rock on the left hand side of the quarry to the left of Urban Decay. Starts on the left hand side of the overhang in the corner. Climb the corner to a good stance under the overhang. Head out and up the face to the chains. Mixed.

Starts as for 'Old School Face Slap'. At the rooflet traverse right until you're at the obvious weakness. climb up and onto the slab and finish at Covit-22's chains.

The line that goes through the V shaped small roof. Start under the V. Climb the face on good holds to the roof. Make some bouldery moves coming out of the roof and mantle the slab. Easy slab climbing to the chains.

Up covid to roof. Use long sling on bolt under roof. Escape right and up out to ledge then up left easy up to slab. Caution on the slab

climbs the arête on smears to the over sized anchors. A technical piece.

One of the best routes at Car Crash. Follow bolts up the left wall of the amphitheatre, move left to the arete to finish at agricultural looking anchor.

Finish up the crack and traverse left to the chains at the top.

Start as for Barametric Pressure. Move up to decent RH side pull, then LH to the large vertical edge. Bust up to finish jug of BP.

5'9 dyno from crimps to the sloping jug

Sunny aspect with most routes in the sun all day with the exeption of Exodus Wall which has afternoon shade.

Bouldery variation to the start of Hard Stone City following the two new ring bolts.

Follow as for the original route to the rest below the small roof, escape left, then up to chains.

Up wall to a rest below a small roof. Then make a hard move over this (Neagle called it pointless.) Avoid the corner/crack on the R.

The often-climbed but unrecorded (?) corner-crack between RW and RTAS. Stay in it all the way!

Up V-corner directly to hard move to chains

Same as 'Running to a Standstill' then escape right to avoid hard move to chains

Up arete past two bolts. After third bolt head right to 'No Mans Land' chains. An overlooked climb with a lot of merit!

Difficult Mantle move

Follow prominent crack feature trending left to an easy finish at 'No Man's Land' chains.

Take the crack on the left? The arete on the right? Span across both? Ignore both? You decide.

Re-equipped 2015.

Start to the left of the Arete under the overhang. Clip first bolt, then make a couple more moves and head left and join original line at its first bolt. Finish as for original line. A bit more sustained than its original.

Starts just left of the arête. Gain the ledge under the overhang then head right and up the arête. Once on the ledge continue up the arête clipping the last bolt of Exodus and finish at its chains. Committing second bolt.

Start as for SLS and move up left to red wall to high ring bolt from comfortable stance. Continue up to strawberry shortcakes' second bolt, then take the highest possible route across the slab to the chains.

The crack on the L side of the slab. Stick to the crack the whole way. At the top, move R to chains.

Following the bolts up the slab is 'Sexy Love Clam'

Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 3 bolts to the chains.

Start up the crack just right of the fish dreams roof. Clip the first bolt of fish dreams continuing directly up the crack with 2 more cam(s), clip the 3rd bolt before reaching "the boardwalk" ledge. Now with two bolt belay.

Up just L of the big roof, around R of the block and continue in the V-corner. Take a 0.75 BD cam. A 'biner on a rope was used to lower off on the FA. Needs a bolted rap point and a little more cleaning.

Now has a double bolt belay!! Good awkward climb. Fun times

All routes from Fisting a Shark to Taste the Pain.

Start 2m left of Feltch Me and climb small wall to under big roof. Launch out through roof crack and up continuation to ledge. At the second horizontal traverse left to arête and finish up this (DBB). All trad. Big Cams for the roof (#3&4) and take a small cam or small wires for the traverse to the arête. Upgraded to 25 based on consensus.

Climb the overhanging arête and up the crack to a stance at half way height. Place a cam in the horizontal then balance your way up the slab between the arête and the corner to the chains.

Caution. The first bolt is the second bolt on Felch me and the run out to the chains is committing! Two pieces of gear was used on the FA.

Start a couple of metres left of Felch me just right of the arete. Make some reachy moves through a technical sequence to gain the ledge. Head up and directly over the roof clipping a bolt above the lip and finish at Felch Me's chains. A powerful sequence through the roof.

From the arete to the chains via the crack.

Start R of the graffiti. Up to first bolt, then L to stand on ledge on arete. Move back R via thin seam and then through steepening. Continue up L to chains.

Self explanatory. Climb Felch Me to its last bolt and head right to chains.

Start as for 'Obsessive Compulsive Disorder' and at its third bolt traverse left via an undercling into 'Felch Me'. Clip Felch Me's 5th bolt and finish up this.

Start just right of Felch Me and head directly up through layback flake. Veer slightly right over small overhang and up slab to chains.

Start 1 metre right of original start under big block and head directly up and over block to a stance. Join the original line at its third bolt and finish as for this. Harder start. Long runner on second bolt is ideal as you can't reach the first bolt.

Start in the right corner of Felch Me following the crack up to the chains.

Starts a metre left of 'Taste The Pain' under the big detached block. Climb the face keeping left of the vertical sloping weakness. Once at the roof head left around it and up the corner. Pull onto the slab and traverse right and finish at the chains.

Start as for original but once at the roof head directly over the centre and up left hand side of the slab. Keep out of the right hand corner. A powerful sequence over the roof!

Fresh bolts will hopefully breath life back into this fantastic little gem! Starts a couple of meters left of the main wall and to the right of Felch Me. Head up following the bolts to the overhang. Once over the overhang use the slab and the corner to reach the chains. Old chains are still there for prosperity.

Climbs the left hand side of the corner. Start up the very loose brittle white rock and work through the detached blocks. Once at the overhang get some jams above your head and work your way into the top of 'Taste The Pain'. Finish at the old rusty chains for the full experience. WARNING The first half is extremely loose. Make sure your belayer is anchored well left of the fall zone!

Neagle entered this route in his guide as a bit of a joke on the chossy corner to the left of ELV. 24 years later it's officially a route. Start as for 'The Power of the Choss Compels You', climb the LH side of the corner and just before the roof leave it and head towards the thin crack in the roof. Climb up and out of the slight overhang, mantle the slab and climb it to the top. No chains yet but they will be installed in the next few weeks.

The rock is shit. The gear is shit. Only climb it if you really feel the need to and even then don't do it. Climb another route instead. A serious undertaking with serious consequences if you fall!

All routes from ELV through to Desperate Living. Afternoon Shade and wall sheltered from light rains.

Left to right traverse starting on huge jug in left hand corner (left of ELV) and taking a low level traverse all the way across the wall past Mercy Street finishing in less than ideal rock approx 5m right of this.

Stand start on the big start hold of the Negal Rees Traverse, follow it right until you meet the start of ELV. Put your skates on and fire up ELV right for a dynamic finish matched on the jug of dyno. Down climb right via staircase.

Sit start left of ELV with RH undercling and LH slopey sidepull. Pull on and go LH to small edge, then bypass finger slot with RH and instead go to higher sidepull. LH sidepull, then RH dynamic into the slot of ELV Lefthand. LH to jug. 5 moves.

The ultimate Graffiti Wall link up traverse! Climb "ELV Extension" into "Footswitch" into "Beg for Mercy".

Start slighty left of the original on two small edge side pulls and head directly up on small holds to ledge at mid point. Finish up original line. First bolt cannot be reached so it's a high-ball to the second bolt.

A short powerful sequence starting on good holds at head height into a crimpy crux section to the big incut feature followed by some big moves to the top of the staircase. Graded back in line with '24 print guide.

An extension of ELV. Climb ELV to its anchors. Making a move up and left to a good hold then traverse left through the corner and onto the blocky slab. Follow the lines of bolts to the anchors. Climbs better than it looks!

The climb traverses through some questionable but solid large blocks so use caution when in this area. Belayer to belay from RHS of ELV.

Starts slightly right of the original line. Head directly up using holds in the original line as left hand holds and minimal right hand holds (sidepulls) to one very long dynamic move at the end.

Stand start on the big jug of Nigel's Traverse climb for the traverse right until the big flat edge of ELV and then finish for ELV.

Sit start with LH gaston edge and higher RH sidepull. Make three moves to gain good gaston of original. Take it to the top!

Climb ELV right hand variant to the ledge and finish as for Footswitch.

ELV to its 2nd bolt then veer hard right, gain the staircase, rest for a year or two, then into RO clipping its 2nd bolt. Finish as for RO direct.

The obvious flake, equipped for Sport climbing since April 2021.

A technical sequence. Starting just right of the staircase following the right trending crack to finish at PO chains. The staircase to the left is out.

Very contrived. Stick-clip RO's first draw, then climb the blank wall between RO and PO, using their crack's for hand and foot holds.

Climb RO to it's 2nd bolt then traverse right across PO, Gonads and through a decidedly thin sequence to join Mercey Street at it's good sidepull between it's 2nd & 3rd bolt. Finish as for this route.

Originally established at 24 via the RO start (the start of Merciless), but a better route starting up PO making it a grade easier. Climb the first two BR's of Percetive Orators then head right across the good jug on AGW and clip the bolt out right on Elephantiasis. Span right to a positive sidepull then keep traversing right into Gonads RHV. Climb the last two BR's of this route and finish at the chain of Mercy Street.

A training link. Starts on loose jug left of graffiti left of ELV then traverses right to finish up all of PO with no rest.

Start up PO then break left into RO after the first bolt and finish up this. Another link.

Start on good sidepull, head directly up to large curved jug rest before moving up to a funky final sequence in smaller incuts. Grading for this line has changed over the years due to holds breaking. Current grading is approx 20-22

Up Perceptive Orators to the break, then right across the break and into Elephantiasis of the G. A good link. Can also be started as for AGW.

AGW then into PO and finishing as for RO Lefthand finish. Easiest route on this wall.

Rarely done. Takes line right of PO through underclings to scar (horizontal) - then up to independent chain shared with Elephantiasis.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then left into PO and finish up this.

Up Elephantiasis to 2nd bolt then bust right and continue as for Beg for Mercy. Sport version of Gonads RHV

Was 23 until a small crimp at the crux magically turned into a jug

The line without a lower off. Start up EofG, then span right into the right hand crack, and finish straight up (no lower off). Superseded now by the (safer) Beg for Mercy finish.

Up Mercy Street then left to join Gonads RH (groundfall possible) - bust horizontally left into EoftheG then left again into PO. Against your better judgement keep trucking left into RO and finish as for the left hand finish to that route. Runout finish off the PO 2nd bolt.

The direct start of 'Gonads RHV' but instead of taking its original finish (no anchor and choss), it finishes at the Mercy Street chains. Now a full equipped sport route.

The right hand line on the graffitti wall. An intense sequence past three bolts.

Climbs the obvious vertical weakness to the right of Mercy Street. When it ends move slightly right via an undercling to some good side pull blocks and up. Rock deteriorates when the layaway ends. Committing runout from half way height to the very top Use caution as it's very loose.

Start 2 meters right of 'Bomber Choss' under the obvious large sloper. Climb up the face via bouldery moves and finish as for 'Bomber Choss'. Lead using a pre-placed cam #3 in the hole on 'Bomber Choss' with a sling taped to wall - a serious undertaking!

None at this time.

None at this time.

None at this time.

The very L end of the quarry.

Through the centre of the overhangs R of Beanicle's.

Take the R end of the overhang.

Crack just R of the arete R of TMSOTW.