Routes as trad in Adelaide

Obvious flake to the left of Sorry Andrea. Finish at chains.

The prominent left trending crack opposite the main wall. Follow it and top out.

Right hand corner of the area up the blocks. Very loose rock.

The central line with innovative fixed gear. Follow the vertical weaknesses up and right around the corner. Continue up the crack and top out. Has an assortment of gear hammered into the weaknesses including an old car seat belt buckle. Best fixed gear ever! Gear appears to be very old.

Probably best to be climbed on trad judging on how old the gear is and how it's inserted into the rock. Literally just bolts hammered into the cracks. FRA climbed on the gear for them old school feels.

Left most route (trad) starting under roof and trending up and left toward left arete on big holds to a pumpy finale. No independent anchor.

Right line (trad) up crack weakness. Trend left at the top to loweroff Trench anchor.

Up the L side of the slab L of the cave. Trend L up the buttress past a small sheoak.

Start as for Womp Rats but head up R into the short chimney formed by the block. Step R (crux) to the Darth Vader lower-off.

Climbs the central crack. Start just right of the big dirt mound. follow the crack up and slightly left and top out. Good protection the whole way up.

Climbs the wall a metre left of 'Mr forgetful'. An OK piece protects the top at half way height in the vertical fingercrack.

up the face left of Kindacute, struggle over the roof with a small crack, up over the ledge to the mini forrest and finish direct.

Start: The ragged corner 10M right of the blackberry filled gully.

Straight up the layback flake to the chains (or beyond).

Mixed pro.

Bolts L of Gladiator, stepping into that route to finish.

Takes the overhanging line just left of the corner (marked). Climb through the overhanging start (crux) to a stance just under a small roof, then reach out right and climb into the opposing corner. Continue up the line to a layback finish and chains.

Takes the poor-looking rock immediately left of the marked Olympus start, joining the upper corner via a reachy and powerful sequence. Was the original line until the loss of some holds.

Rarely done, mainly because it has a sport (bolted) start, then relies on trad (small wires) to finish. Climbs Pussycats start (crux) then trends left into Kiss My Brain (bolt and old piton). Over roof, but instead of taking the bolt line left (KMB), go up 2/3m then trent left to arete. Finish at top chain for maximum enjoyment.

The good-looking corner crack just right of 'Sardine'. Cruxy start, then once level with Sardine's 2nd bolt, it eases off (but not completely). Best finished by traversing left to the 'Sardine' chains.

A really good combo route. Start as for Terrethea, but prior to its crux reach out right for the big flake of 'Terra Incognita'. Match this and continue up the line. Effectively dismisses the original 'Terra Incognita' reachy crux.

Take 'Japetus' to the 'hole' - then launch up the left side of the arete past a small edge and a 'hidden' sidepull to the 'Japetus' break.

The original line continued up the face of 'Terra Incognita' - however cutting back right at the good rest and launching up the direct finish of 'Japetus' Direct makes for a far better route.

The original route. Now superseded by the direct finish.

Start: Takes the very overhanging arete from its base up to the 'hole', then tacts right around the steep arete and up to the big break via a good undercling. This original line then stepped left and finished up the 'Terra Incognita' face.

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"