Routes in Second Valley

An easier? (but more serious if you fall) option for traversing around to the wall. Start level with the horizontals on High Enough's slab and continue through - either finish at the top of Frogman or you can continue at at about the same grade across to the lower jump ledge. Good exposed climbing, and not grade 13!

While we're doing short things, on the RH wall just before the entrance to the cave is a dark hole, pocket. Straight out of the water to snatch this, then trend left through the notch to exit onto the Top Traverse. Probably harder at low tide.

Halfway along the She-Almost-Did-It Traverse, go straight up and finish up High Diver.

A fun way to start. The Lower Traverse line past the cave mouth, moving along the juggy rail, then up towards the end - finishing at the platform right of The Frogman Cometh.

Up Frogman, then straight up prow to an unlikely and awesome finish up the blunt arete. Scary, but probably the safest tall climb here!

Start in the water below the slab left of the cave. Go straight up and onto the slab, continuing to the walk-off at the top. You can do the start (about V3), but the top slab is not steep enough to be even remotely safe. Be warned.

Only at low tide. Just inside the cave, locate the undercling, pull on using this up to a right hand 2 finger pocket, then up to finish at horizontal. Sharp barnacles make it serious if you slip.

Worth doing for the surroundings. Swim into the cave and continue in until you see an arch, below this look for a niche between two rounded and barnacled outcrops on the left. Thrutch your way up, trying not to take off enough skin to arouse attention.

An extension route to The Frogman Cometh, this route continues up to the diving ledge at approximately 17m. A fall near the top (the crux) would be quite serious, but it's just steep enough.

The first route done here. Start in the water after the diagonal edges leading out right from the cave. Follow the slightly overhanging wall up on right handed pockets to some good holds.

Start in the water, then up the easy corner right of Frogman, finishes at the comfy ledge, which you can then jump from.

Right hand traverse route that starts halfway up The Bob and continues around through the bulge and finishes around the arete on easy ground.

Weakness up the RHS of wall, through the very rough / juggy section of rock, then up the arete above finishing direct. The whole top arete of this climb is quite dangerous due to the slab below. Do not slip.

(grade 20 if you heel hook) Starts below the overhanging wall left of the obvious corner and crack at the RH end. Go straight up avoiding the arete. Careful! A slip at the top can hurt! (as Tom found out)

A great easy warmup / DWS intro. Climb the obvious corner with the crack towards the RH end of the wall. Tricky start, eases towards the top. You can do variants with and without the crack itself.

Start at the far right of the wall (or in the water), then up the arete, through a small bulge and then to the top on easy holds.

The obvious diagonal line rising out of the water at the mouth of the cave. Begin right at the point where the line meets the water and continue traversing and progressing diagonally upwards with the line until you are able to move up shortly after the line finishes. Finish up any line you like.

Feet are difficult to find at times (underwater) and also following the line below the overhang. Hard to grade, with wet hands and when a moderate swell is lifting you then pulling you back down... however, sorry but was never 27. It's an entertaining problem - but it's a DWS boulder, not a climb, so unfortunately the grade has to go.

Start at the water's edge on the far right side of the wall, traverse left under the overhang (about gr15) to the bottom of backslapper, then follow backslapper route up to the cliff top (or finish up any other route at an easier grade). Wet hands make this a touch tricky.

Stand start match on the large undercling and head up and right and finish on the good jug.

Stand start matched on large sloping ledge. Follow the right hand side of the arête up and at the top head left to the triangle hold to finish.

Stand start on good holds at chest height and make a series of big moves to good edges and finished matched on the good hold up high.

Stand start on good holds as for 'Seeya Later Aigator'. Make the first few moves of this but traverse right along the white rock and finish matched in the trainglular hold.

Sit start in the back of cave matched on the obvious sloping block. Make a big move to a big hold out left then continue up on good holds which are spaced. Finish on the good hold on the lip of the cave.

stand start matched on sloping ledge. Follow the white rock directly up and finished matched on the triangular feature.

Stand Start matched on the undercling. Head up via the obvious pockets in the centre of the wall before making a big move to the shot like holes to finish. Reachy!

Stand start on good side pulls and following the good holds until the highest hold is reached.

Stand start as for 'Visible Cut' and jump to the final hold of this problem.

Start at the right side of the cave at The Visible Cut. Stay low and traverse the entire cave, finishing as the rock flattens out (or for nicer and more continuous variant, finish up Moth House)

Open Project. Climb 'Lord of Salem' to the very top of the cliff. Top out in the centre. Would need to be cleaned first but with some work would be a king line.

Actually situated on the overhanging wall encountered as you walk to Backslapper Wall. Start below the overhanging western side of the inlet, move up to a Razor Fish-shaped RH hold, pull up left on good horizontal flake then up R onto VERY SHARP rock. If you slip here it will cut you very badly (just ask Tom Cree). on up to easy finish.

Open Project. Sit start on the left hand side. Moves up and right through an unlikely pinch. Some big moves into 'Lord of Salem'.

Sit start in the centre of the 45 at it's lowest point on right hand large sloping dish and left hand undercling. Follow bulge on edges and slopers before making an unlikely move to a far away edge. From here head slightly left through obvious weakness and mantle out. The climb ends half way up the cliff so to get down you will need to down climb the slab to it's right. V1 down climb.

Sit start Start at lowest point of 45 wall with right hand in large sloping dish and left hand undercling. Pull on and head up bulge on an edges and slopers. Finishes on sharp Incut edge half way up the wall.

Start sitting on the rock under the overhangs right hand side matched on good edge. Head left via good holds to meet 'The Lord of Salem' at the start of the yellow streak. Finish as for the low finish.