Routes in Fleurieu Peninsula

A short memorable '14'. Adding to the excitement is how long will the window last!

Start: Start from inside the Tafoni (umbrella looking rock). Thread a sling through the window, clip and go! Step out then make your way over the top.

Well, it had some beer cans in it at least. Up the squeeze chimney between the two rocks and out the back. FA was solo, it's quite hard to fall out, but would possibly take some very large cams (BD 5 or 6?). May be a bit harder and more interesting if the loose chock-stones were cleaned out of the chimney

From the start of Octopus's Garden, wander diagonally up R then take the second line on the L (an offwidth/chimney).

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

Start: Scramble up the gully to where the crack breaks out right over an overhang and onto a slab above. Follow this to where it peters out over a little overlap, then step left and past an undercling en route to a big hole at the main overlap. Then traverse out right to finish on the short final wall.

Start straight up the crack. Well protected.

Straight up above the hole in the big overlap past a bolt. This finish is shared with Fin de Siecle.

Like many scare routes, easy to toprope, easy to fall off, but bloody terrifying to lead. A single bolt protects the hardest moves within the first 4 metres, then you are on your own. A cam in a hollow flake follows backed up by some wires, then a 6 metre runout to a twin skyhook placement on a large crimper line. From there, it's about a 12 metre runout to the top diagonally leftwards at first, then straight up. Carrigan toproped the line prior to the first ascent (ie. It was 'headpointed') - and left his rack weighing down a single skyhook on the last placement. The final part on a toprope may feel about grade 18, however it will feel very different on lead! British E5 5c - which means 'dangerous!'

Start at the crack 1m L of Albatross. Up to join the L-leading diagonal crack to Crow's Nest and finish up that climb.

At the wedge take the R crack and rejoin RSATL up high.

The splitter crack on the left hand side of the wall.

Begin at the base of the big, slightly L-curving corner midway between In To Deep and Man Overboard (abseil in). Move 2m L, clip a bolt (BD .1 cam below it if required), make a tricky move up L into the vertical crack and continue more easily.

The left curving undercling flake, to the body sized slot between the boulder and the cliff. Finish straight up.

From the start of Octopus’s Garden, climb the incipient crack one step R of the big corner. Gain the main groove on the buttress and finish up R.

Vertical thinnish crack system 5m L of Man Overboard, beginning from a handy stance (abseil in).

The black streaked corner to the roof. Over this to moss, choss and pig face.

The wall 3m R of Sicily to a sloping crack at 4m. Step L and continue up the very mossy rock.

Start up the flake on the eastern corner of the larger boulder. Step left and up the wall, finishing at the tiny corner.

Start as for Lychee O'Grady, but bear right instead. Dance up the wall.

Toprope or solo the pleasant little slab about 15m R of Comme Ci Comme Ca. Known on here as Sunny Slab for a time.

Located on the impossible looking front of the boulder. Stand start on big obvious undercling on the left hand side. Make a big move to what is probably the best hold on the climb (and that's saying a lot!) then up on tiny crimps and nubbins.

A long standing problem. Start at the base of the blunt arete facing the Pleasure Dome, 5 metres right of the start of 'Trois D' Artagnon'. Climb easily to the first FH, then continue to second FH. Try your hardest to reach the third FH, then continue to the roof. Traverse left across underclings and finish up short crack (wire or cam), then onto slab (BR).

take a #1 cam

Bolted line 3m L of the chimney.

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. A total classic that puts value back into 21's! Try not to do this one on a big wave day however.

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

Possibly harder than Smooth Sailing and a little bit exciting to reach the crux. Take small wires and cams to supplement. A big pitch that gets harder the higher you go, with a super delicate crux section in the final 8 metres. 2nd pitch has not been climbed since a huge flake came off it, and it is not in a climbable state at present.

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

Small jump to get to base of climb, move up left past flake and single carrot to top out. Use a sling on lower flake for additional protection.

Start up Slippery Dip and traverse across the top bolt of each of the other climbs. Top out on Cubby House.

Small jump to get to base of climb, move up left past single carrot to top out. Use a sling on lower flake for additional protection.

A direct start to Walking on the Moon.

Small jump to get to base of climb, move up right past single carrot to top out. Use a sling on lower flake for additional protection.

Start on lower ledge and move up past two carrots.

Start two meters right of Sliding Track and move up past two carrots to top out.

Start two meters right of Swing and move up past two carrots to top out.

Start two meters right of Red Rover, All Over where crack is at knee height and move up past two carrots to top out.

Clear the Decks Pitch 1 until it bisects Smooth Sailing then as for this briefly until you can climb right to the anchor.

Start two meters right of Monkey Bars, this is the right-most sport climb on ledge. Follow two carrot bolts up to top out.

Possibly the best line at Waits. Follows the white quartz diagonal seam in a rising leftward direction until the route meets the vertical crackline of True North. From here, straight up the crack to a final tricky section and a cut right and up to chain. Mega.

Smooth Sailing until you can cut right to the Clear the Decks Pitch 1 anchor. Quality.

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

Awkward crackline following ring bolts.

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

While we're doing short things, on the RH wall just before the entrance to the cave is a dark hole, pocket. Straight out of the water to snatch this, then trend left through the notch to exit onto the Top Traverse. Probably harder at low tide.

Halfway along the She-Almost-Did-It Traverse, go straight up and finish up High Diver.