Routes in Waitpinga

A traverse of cephalopod wall in either direction staying about 10m above the rock or water.

as in the guide book

Takes a line on the left side of the wave platform, starting with a carrot bolt then leading up past FH's to a mid section requiring trad. Take a breath and move up into the crux (bolt protected) which involves a span out right. Has been known to throw off 6'4" grade 29 climbers yet see 5'3" grade 22 climbers onsight it - so no excuses!

The scene of an epic first ascent story. Originally climbed entirely on trad then later retrobolted (by the first ascentionists). A classic that gets harder as you get closer to the belay. Well worth doing.

Hard start traversing into the diagonal slashes then up these to a final cruxy section that traverses left to an anchor.

Start on boulders at R end of pond. Up to carrot (difficult) then past 2 ring bolts. Continue up crack (natural protection) passing another ring bolt up high before the DBB.

The easiest route on this part of the cliff gets no stars.

Start same as "Technically Gifted" and continue straight up.

The first 10m are well protected and fairly solid, but after that be prepared for sandy ledges, brittle rock, dirt and bushes. At top, traverse left (no gear) for 5m to a DBB.

The extension to GMB to the Achilles chain hasn't had a lead ascent as yet.

This trad route requires a big cam for the hole and small wires/RPs thereafter.

Start up the crack system and vertical quartz seam left of the major chimney and in front of the large viewing block until it is possible to reach out left to an obvious large hole.

From this, continue diagonally up and left through strenuous moves to the DBB.

The all too obvious crackline rising up by 'the bath' left of Smooth Sailing/Lost Socks requiring a mixture of trad and bolts. Grade 15 to the first anchor then continue up the crackline as it thins out and leads into the junction of Smooth Sailing. Finish as for that route.

Start 3m right of the end of 'Flight of the Gull.' The difficult start is accentuated by the threat of waves.

Left leaning cracks for 20m until it closes to a seam. Then Walk the Plank gingerly rightwards (no gear) to the DBB.

Not really a variant - just the start of True North. An all trad affair to the first anchor and an excellent lead for the grade.

Up 'Walk the Plank' for 8m then straight up past ring bolts. Head a bit left at the top to gain the Plank and step R to the DBB.

Follow the crack line that runs parallel and 5m R of Smooth Sailing. Start at Clearing Your Mind leftwards passing through its Barque’s garden, then keep following the obvious crack line that leads to the Lost Socks DBB. Good natural pro all the way. 70m rope required to lower off.

An inferior route to Smooth Sailing linking Lost Socks start (contrived) into Smooth Sailing.

Mixed protection, 4 bolts and natural gear.

At the wedge take the R crack and rejoin RSATL up high.

Start at the crack 1m L of Albatross. Up to join the L-leading diagonal crack to Crow's Nest and finish up that climb.

How the the route is meant to be climbed! Pitch 1 to the DBB. From here continue directly up the slab to the horizontal. Head for the vertical slot and follow this to the very top. Exit at the very top of the cliff through the opening. Rock deteriorates significantly on the second pitch.

The extension to Clear the Decks Pitch 1 (done in one big pitch to the 2nd anchor). Very exciting crux relying on classic Waits foot smears to negotiate the hard bit a little distance above the protection.

Possibly the best line at Waits. Follows the white quartz diagonal seam in a rising leftward direction until the route meets the vertical crackline of True North. From here, straight up the crack to a final tricky section and a cut right and up to chain. Mega.

Smooth Sailing until you can cut right to the Clear the Decks Pitch 1 anchor. Quality.

Climb Smooth Sailing until after its crux (where it meets True North) then 1m later span out left via a series of dynamic iron cross moves and bad feet to join GMB. Climb the crack of this route for approx 1-2m then a final slab boulder problem diagonally leftwards leads to the chain of Achilles Gambit. Originally freed to GMB, later extended to the obvious finish. Very technical and engaging climbing.

Awkward crackline following ring bolts.

Waits headspace slabbing at its best and probably not a good one to warm up on if you haven't experienced Waits before or are looking for a quick clip up. Good training for the harder routes.

take a #1 cam

Bolted line 3m L of the chimney.

The L arete of the chimney at the R end of the wall.

Climb 2/3 of Sea Lion pitch 1, then step L to Taleah Grace chains.

Sea Lion 1st pitch to 1st horizontal. If using a 60m rope lower to TG chains

You can take a bit of trad gear with you to supplement the bolts. A total classic that puts value back into 21's! Try not to do this one on a big wave day however.

Possibly harder than Smooth Sailing and a little bit exciting to reach the crux. Take small wires and cams to supplement. A big pitch that gets harder the higher you go, with a super delicate crux section in the final 8 metres. 2nd pitch has not been climbed since a huge flake came off it, and it is not in a climbable state at present.

Clear the Decks Pitch 1 until it bisects Smooth Sailing then as for this briefly until you can climb right to the anchor.