Ascents of Chips 'n' Dips as Hang dog

Got all the moves. Coming back for the send

First time on the route. Did all the moves going bolt to bolt. Awsome route !!!

Same story, clean and smooth to nipple, then I got fucked in the head. Silly.

Downhill, shut down at bulge.

Downhill, shut down at bulge. Climbed after the fall and fell once more at nipple.

Fell at bulge but clean otherwise. Should go tomorrow.

So a nice clean burn. Felt neat and precise, not strained. Fell off nipple due to confidence only, feet felt near and sticky, caught it well. No excuses. Took left option at top and felt bomber.

Fell off nipple as caught it wrong. Felt smooth to there with good rests.

Got shut down at bulge like a million times, left grip just lost all its oomph. Disappointing.

Felt sick today but both burns felt good. Rested/fell on each crux. Feeling positive.

Similar to last time.

Felt hard today

Warm up

One fall going for dimple. Right forefinger got trapped by the left hand match. Straight up at the top. Got this, yew!

Three falls. Best attempt yet. Pulled the crux twice, and most other moves feel reasonably solid. Getting closer.

Getting closer on the stopper move past the 3rd bolt, and still have some work to do to put together the top section. The rest of it could go on a good day.

Warm up

Rests at bulge, dimple, and top out.

Fell at break reaching for high crimp, at awkward match going for high right nub, and at the anchor bulge practicing the direct finish.

Calling it a dog to provide encouragement for myself, though I aided past the 3rd bolt. Nearly made the move. The rest of it is coming together.

Three rests

Two burns. One setting draws bolt to bolt.

Second burn was good. One fall after clipping the fourth bolt. Everything felt solid today. Found another hold at the fourth bolt making it cleaner. Just need to control the calves!

Had a rough time on this yesterday, but did better today, pulling all the moves for the first time. Lot of long reaches on small hand and foot holds. Still got some beta to resolve, but this will go.

Two sections, one to the layback rest after the high step, one from there to the top. Shaking right calf was the culprit again. Magnesium and stretching next time!

Psyched.

Dirty. Messy. High gravity day. Apparently body was fcked. Still good training.

First lead attempt. Messy with a few rope issues and lead jitters to work through. First time on lead in months!!!

Better. Three sections. 1. To the good crimps on the Arete after the high step. 2. To the good rest on at the third last bolt. 3. To the top!

Need to stretch calves at the break as they’re what stopped me linking 1 & 2. So close! Will go.

Think I have beta and psychology sorted for start of section 3. That was the only not quite so solid section on this burn, and was all mental.

Could go clean next session if things come together.

Enjoyed the climb. Feels good. Solid for the most part.

Yessssss. None of this feels hard now. Time to lead! Four sections each starting from a good rest. Have them mostly dialed now.

She goes!

Took a while to find all the holds. Found four more holds on the middle crux and one more hold on the top crux. Now none of it should be that bad.

Did it in five sections today. 1. To the good hold on the horizontal crack, 2. Through the high left step up to the left crimp. 3. Through the delicate footwork and hidden holds to the good right rail. 4. Through the even more delicate footwork and body positioning to the easy terrain up high. 5. Up over the belly!

Linking 1/2, and 3/4/5 shouldn’t be too bad as there’s good rests at all those joins. There’s no rest between 2 and 3 though so that will be my endurance test for sure!

I’m excited!

Pretty scrappy, but better than last time. I still have no idea how to do the last metre to the anchors. It's going to be hard, but I don't think it's hopeless.

First look on toprope. Got up first time mainly by pulling on the rope. Got up next time pulling on the holds, so that was better. Big moves and technical climbing on little holds. This is an official project now.

Umph! It was a bit of a struggle.

A real tendon stretcher eh! On top rope solo

crimpy and nasty. Leading it will be interesting