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Routes in Western Cluster

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Showing all 35 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Central Cluster Warm-up Boulder
VB CWu4

Sit start on first small block around the corner of farthest left side of block/slab finishing up the left slab.

Boulder 3m
VB CWu5

Start as for CWu4 traverse right and finish up CWu1, avoid the first small loose flake.

Boulder 5m
V0 CWu6

Start as for CWu4, traverse all the way right via the break (avoid the small loose flake) and finish up CWu3.

Boulder 7m
V0+ CWu7

Eliminate problem, flakes/crack out. Stand start with both hands on the fender like feature below the flakes. Move up to a high right crimp then move up the slab left to rockover/mantle the top slab direct without using the lower slab. You will want 2 pads or 1 with a spotter.

Boulder 3m
VB CWu2

Sit start on wedges right side of main bloc, traverse left via the break to the far left of the slab, ascend left side of the slab

Boulder 7m
VB CWu1

Sit start on wedges right side of the main bloc, trend leftwards and up via crack system +/- flake. Take care the large flake is loose but feels secure, the smaller one to the left is not safe, avoid or remove.

Boulder 4m
V0- CWu3

Sit start on wedges right side of main block and move up trending right of block/slab via crimp and jugs. Quite awkward landing be careful, may want a spotter.

Boulder 3m
The Gents Boulder
V1 C2

Has 'Gents' painted on the rock

Boulder
V1 C3

Start at flanged crack and reach up to crescent direct (sans small jug on right), then move down and right finishing via C4.

Boulder 4m
V0 C4

Start as for C3 but traverse right along the break passing the jug, good edges then reaching for a jug and into a crowded mantle. UK5a moves the whole way passing a nasty landing section so not really a V0. Nice little route.

Boulder 4m
VB C24 Arc

Back of boulder which houses C2-4. Traverse the low angle slab and break in either direction.

Boulder 8m
VB C24 Arc Mantle #1

Climb the C24 Arc from either direction, mantle the top block front-on from the apex. Mark your footholds as you will reverse to get back down, reverse whale if you have to.

Boulder 5m
VB C24 Arc Mantle #2

Climb the arc from either direction, mantle the slab when you reach the good flakes/edges on the right hand side of the arc.

Boulder 5m
VB C24 Arc Mantle #3

Climb the arc from either direction, mantle the top bloc from the good holds on the highest point with your feet in the flake system of C24 Arc Mantle #2.

Boulder 5m
Slab Adventure Boulder!
V0 C5

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
V0 C6

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
V0 C7

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
V0 C8

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
V0 C9

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
V0 C10

Choose your own slab adventure!

Boulder
Central Trackside Boulder
V2 Slurp!

More short route than boulder problem, path of least resistance left of the central block. Start on the small detached stone closest the wall, access the slab via smallish crimps and move up to the break and right (UK5b sequence) to a good rest to place gear if desired. It's possible to down climb and step down to the large detached stone from the break. Route crux is working up through the crack/gully system (Solid Uk 5a, falling here is a really bad idea) onto the central block then top out. Overall probably HVS 5a/5b with gear, awful landing the entire way as solo/boulder, take great care.

Boulder 7m
V3 Winchester Arete

Start and middle as for Winchester finishing up Green Arete-3.

Boulder 13m
V3 Winchester

Start up Slurp! move right and down Cola! into and finishing up Cola! RHV.

Boulder 11m
V2/3 Slurpee!

Start at and utilise the crack from it's base on the left side of the central bloc to mantle the slab then finish via Slurp! Harder and more dangerous landing than Slurp!

Boulder 7m
V3/4 Cola!

Start hands matched in the middle of the central block, traverse left into and up the crack/slab to finish via Slurpee!

Boulder 8m
V2 Cola! RHV

Start hands matched in the middle of the central bloc same as for Cola! Move right into the crack and utilise it to move up and right on the slab, finish via CT Slab & Crack.

Boulder 9m
V2 R Green Arete-3

Start up Cola! RHV, mantle and ascend the green arete. Low-end UK4c route crux with potentially life threatening landing, do not fall, do not attempt when slab is damp.

Boulder 10m
V1/2 Central Trackside Slab & Crack LHV

Starting a couple of meters left of the original Central Trackside Slab & Crack utilising positive but awkwardly positioned holds to gain the slab (UK5b) and finish up the original route. Careful the holds here look like they will compact down with traffic also potentially dangerous landing.

Boulder 8m
V2 R Green Arete-2

Start up CT Slab & Crack LHV, mantle and ascend the green arete. Low-end UK4c route crux with potentially life threatening landing, do not fall, do not attempt when slab is damp.

Boulder 8m
V4/5 On the South-West

Start up CT Slab & Crack, trend left into Cola! RHV reversing it into and finishing up Cola! Multiple sections of serious landing, good rest before the highball/solo finish, absolute cracker.

Boulder 13m
V1 Central Trackside Slab & Crack

More short route than boulder problem takes the path of least resistance to the top. UK5a via crimps to get on to the slab with good landing, low end 4c as the route crux onto the block (don't fall here), 4b move to top, looks to take bomber gear if you prefer; should translate to soft VS 4c from memory! Also the descent route, jump off the lower slab.

Boulder 8m
V1/2 R Green Arete-1

Start up CT Slab & Crack, mantle and ascend the green arete. Low-end UK4c route crux with potentially life threatening landing, do not fall, do not attempt when slab is damp.

Boulder 7m
V5 Flora & Fauna

Link up, start by climbing Winchester Arete, downclimb the main crack back on to the slab and finish via On the South-West. Minute or so at the no handers to shake out and get your breath back if needed, long and technical.

Boulder 18m
Silly Goat
V5 C1

Lots of thin sharp stuff facing the wrong way and then a nice cresent way up high

Boulder
V4 What a Silly Goat

Starts at the far left of the undercling. Use small edges and smear points to Traverse over the face. Finishes around the corner where the slab can be stood on.

Optionally complete the full circuit around the boulder. ~V0 for this part.

Aggressive shoes will help. Consider filing toenails more than usual as most footholds only allow for toe tips.

FA: Jared C, 26 Aug 2019

Boulder 6m

Showing all 35 routes.

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