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Routes in The Wastelands

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Showing all 76 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
?(S) B
Sport 10m
The Vertex
20 Kon Bon Wa

Two meters right of AFA

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 8m, 1
16 Asking for Action

The Arete right of KKB. Poorly placed bolt leads to sustained climbing

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Sport 8m, 2
14 King Kong's Bum

Up the dirty crack

FA: M. Fox, 1991

Trad 10m
20 Breathless

Left of KKB, straight up using nuts to supplement the bolts

FA: David Barnes, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 3
21 Cringing Dinosaurs

Start below the ramp leading right. Mixed pro

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 15m, 1
20 Stormy Rocks

A good climb that needs some traffic. After some thin moves at the start you get to do some great moves in the middle with the bolts just where you need them. DBB

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Sport 15m, 4
24 Slabathon

Technical crux

FA: Dave Barnes

Mixed trad 15m, 3
24 Jeopardy

The left arete. Steep line with mixed pro

FA: David Barnes, 1993

Mixed trad 14m, 2
The Grandstand
12 Pandora's Pillar

Start right of the right hand arete in the gully. Likely overgrown

FA: C. Jeffs, 1992

Sport 6m, 2
17 I'd Rather Be Climbin'

The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay

FA: C.Jeffs, 1992

Mixed trad 8m, 1
17 No Wasted Space

FA: Alan Smith, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 2
20 Alley Boys

Up corner to chain belay. New ring bolt lower off. 2021

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 15m, 1
16 Ocean of Wind

Climb up between the two plates of rock. Start right of the first bolt. New u bolt lower offs 2021.

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Sport 15m, 5
17 Dodging the Elements

Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021.

FA: David Barnes, 1993

Mixed trad 15m, 5
17 Weirding Way

two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall

FA: M. Walters, 1992

Mixed trad 15m, 2
Stray Cat's Crag
15 Love Letters From Tasmania

Up the crack. New lower offs 2021.

FA: M.Fox, 1992

Trad 8m
15 Swimming in a Sea of Sand

Heady trad slabbing for a 15. New lower offs 2021.

FA: M.Fox, 1992

Trad 8m
20 Plummet Earth Eats Worms

Fun mixed slab. Two new stainless carrots and ring bolt lower offs 2021. A really fun slab adventure but be careful if this is at your grade/head game limit as placements aren’t mega.

FA: Dave Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 9m, 2
19 Avian Avarice

Up the right side of the left arete. New stainless carrot and lower offs 2021.

FA: M. Fox, 1991

Mixed trad 8m, 1
Aunty Dot's
20 A

Short wall facing the descent gully

Sport 5m, 1
19 To Catch a Thief

At far right end of the wall

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Mixed trad 6m, 1
20 Eat More Onions

Left of TCAT past two bolts

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 6m, 2
17 El Crapo

Just left of the steep gully

FA: C. Jeffs, 1992

Mixed trad 6m, 1
16 Sabrina

Up the crack to finish up jugs

FA: M. Fonda, 1991

Trad 7m
18 Vengeance

Up the orange streak in the middle of the wall

FA: M. Fonda, 1991

Mixed trad 7m, 2
15 Highway Neanderthal

left of V

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Mixed trad 7m, 2
13 Faith

Follow the rightward ramp to V with no pro

FA: A. Le Gras (solo), 1991

Trad 9m
14 Psychedelic Nightmare

left of F, Straight up past bolt and cam

FA: G. McGregor, 1992

Mixed trad 7m, 1
18 Ordinary People

straight up past single bolt

FA: M. Fonda, 1992

Mixed trad 7m, 1
14 Temporary Insanity

two meters right of corner. Straight up

FA: C. Jeffs, 1992

Mixed trad 7m, 1
6 NFI Crack

The wide crack two meters left of the arete

FA: Peter Monks, 1998

Trad 6m
Rainbow Wall Right Side
25 Slave to the Crank

Far right end, 3 bolts to tree belay

Sport 7m, 3
19 Cranky Jaws

left of STTC below flake

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 7m, 2
12 Galactic Crack

The obvious crack

FA: R. Roxby, 1991

Mixed trad 6m, 2
12 Dildo Comes Again

Up the corner to a tree belay

FA: M. Fonda, 1991

Trad 5m
16 I'm On Fire

Left of DCA, past two bolts then finish left

FA: M.Darda, 1992

Sport 7m
15 Pyro Monkey

left of the scrub

FA: S. Johnson, 1991

Trad 7m
18 Dancing With Dolphins

Left of Pyro. 3RB’s to Lower Off. Rad !! Rebolted 2021

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 9m, 3
20 Wicked Ticket

Up past flakes and bolts

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 9m, 3
Rainbow Wall Main Area
15 Pot of Gold

At far right end of Rainbow Wall, at ramp. A bit runout. Up thin wall to break, then left up ramp and traverse horizontal break left (piton on Sweet Red Wine) to anchors on Fatboy.

FA: Peter Monks, 1997

Trad 9m
16 Conan and the Gonad Cruncher

Start below blunt arête at right hand end. Up the right side of the arête past 4 bolts. Shared lower off with SRW. Rebolted 2021

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 9m, 4
22 Sweet Red Wine

Two meters left of Conan. Rebolted 2021

Mixed trad 8m, 1
23 Fatboy Thin

Same as 'Fatboy', but without using the chipped hold for hands or feet.

FA: Same as Fatboy but aviods the Chipped hold.

Sport 10m, 4
20 Fatboy

Up crack then blast straight up past RBs to lower off. It has a chipped hold than can be avioided. Tricky between 1st and 2nd bolts. Rebolted 2021

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 10m, 4
17 Get It On

4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared lower off with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2021

FA: M. Fonda, 1993

Sport 8m, 3
19 French Toast

Quality moderate Grit. Start up thin breaks between Get It On and Dave's Toaster and up feature to break. Climb the face with interesting moves and good gear to mantle and tree anchor.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 17 Oct 2021

Trad 9m
17 Dave's Toaster

The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow.

FFA:

FA: Hardy Bros, 1980

Trad 8m
20 Contrived Pate

Start below flakes left of DT. 2 bolts to anchor. Rebolted 2021

FA: Chris Wallace, 1993

Mixed trad 8m, 2
24 Bolting Blues

A young Graham Fairburn put this up in June, 1990. There was a TCU in the first and last break which made it more exciting than now but still, a great technical bit of face climbing. Rebolted 2021

FA: Graham Fairburn, 1990

Sport 8m, 4
22 Room With a View

Just to the right of COtC. A ripper of all wall climb with a stingy tail. 3 Us to DBB lower off shared with BB or finish direct. Rebolted 2021

FA: David Barnes

Sport 8m, 4
22 Billy McDougall

As for for BE, but pike out of last direct move and move right and clip the last bolt on COtC and up to anchors.

Sport 9m, 5
22 Check Out the Chicken

Start: 2m right of BE. Straight up wall under flake. 4 bolts to shared anchors with BE. Rebolted 2021

FA: David Barnes, 1990

Sport 8m, 5
23 Billy's England

Just to the right of H&HR, Balancey start leads to reachy moves upto break. Then up to big reach move, to lower off shared with COtC. Classic climbing with new bolts. Rebolted 2021

FA: Dave Barnes

Sport 8m, 4
24 Hip and Hunky Rhythm

Start: 2m left of BE. Blast straight up wall past 3 U bolts to lower off. Rebolted 2021

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

Sport 8m, 4
25 Psychedelic Rhythm

(Link Up) Start up Sick Cows On Acid and do the crux, clip the 2nd bolt and move up to the higher break. Hand Traverse right (gear) and finish up Hip and Hunky Rhythm taking the final bolt and anchors.

FA: nathanual hebbard, 8 Oct 2021

Mixed trad 9m, 3
25 Sick Cows on Acid

Start: Behind block.

Superb rock. 4 U bolts and positive ape factor. Rebolted 2021

FA: Ben Pearce, 1994

Sport 8m, 4
18 Courting Notoriety

Start: Behind the block 2m left of SCoA.

Up the offwidth and flake above. The block is off limits. Place gear in top from block before you start to protect fall onto block. Ugly.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1993

Trad 8m
The pre-bumbly area
20 Love Mission

Start: Just right of big gum tree.

2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing.

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Trad 7m
Bundy Project

Start just left of tree at cool little flake. Up thru breaks veering left to finish on shared lower offs with PL.

SportProject 8m
23 Poetic Licence

This route is more of a boulder problem with a couple of BR;s. However it is on very nice rock and has one of the greatest dino's to reach the top break, around. If ypou are down this way have a go, I would love to know what you think? It deserves some traffic.

FA:

Sport 7m, 2
20 Year Seven Girl

Up flakes with no pro (top rope recommended). Used to have a marked start

FA: Gary Hardy & Mark Hardy, 1980

Trad 6m
Hot Chips - Rebolted Project - Stay off

The 'Steep' climb between Bumbly Buttress 'Right Side' and 'Rainbow Wall' 'Main Area'. Up corner wall past FH to Bolt, then over buldge and up steep head wall past chips to chain.

SportProject 10m
Bumbly Buttress Right Side
17 Mulch Mattress

Start three meters right of FOTF. Up to break, then traverse left under overhangs to finish up Flight

FA: M. Walters, 1992

Mixed trad 10m, 1
21 Flight of the Fanciful

Start two meters right of the crack. Stay left of the poor rock

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Mixed trad 10m, 3
17 Yosemite Sam

The wide offwidth leading to a face with a bolt or two

FA: M. Walters, 1992

Mixed trad 10m, 2
20 Finger Lickin' Good

Left of YS. Up the sharp wall past three bolts

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Sport 10m, 3
Bumbly Buttress Left Side
15 Snowbound

Straight up to the cave, traverse left and continue to top. Requires cams

FA: M. Fonda, 1990

Trad 9m
21 Direct Door

Up to the horizontal break, traverse right a few meters, then up

FA: M. Fox, 1991

Trad 9m
22 Emma Loves Artichokes

Up through seam to top. Difficult pro

FA: M. Fox, 1991

Trad 8m
20 Mortal Sin

Start below the flakes

FA: Graham Fairburn, 1991

Trad 8m
7 Spasticosis

Follow the ramp up

FA: M. Fonda, 1990

Trad 7m
Cave Rock
18 Nancyboy

Right side of the cave with a few questionable bolts

FA: M. Fonda, 1992

Sport 7m, 2
19 Cream

Up and out through the top of the cave

FA: David Barnes, 1992

Sport 8m, 3
18 Who's the Joker

Left side of cave. (.75, 1 & 2 make for a good anchor due to demise of tree)

FA: David Barnes, 1991

Sport 8m, 2
15 Cowboy Caviar

Left of the cave

FA: M. Le Gras, 1991

Sport 6m

Showing all 76 routes.

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