After being humiliated for the second time by its big bully brother that lives a few metres to the left (Tourniquet) of this route, I approached this climb with zero expectations.
I would firstly pay homage to the small finger crack deep inside that helps one alteast get off the ground whilst holding on to some worthless self esteem. After that the fun begins; rewinding every Wide Boyz vids I have ever watched and digging deep in my move encyclopedia; arms bars, chicken wings, heel toes, hell even had to use double fist stacks on a few occasions.
Slipped and spat out multiple times; my meaty hind and loins always came to the rescue. Just keep breathing and fight on (obscene language is very much permitted). Once past the wide bit, the PTSDs made the last crack section look deceptively hard. On me toes, I stitched that baby up so much that there was gear everywhere and nowhere to hand jam. Alias, I survived (mentally) and finished rest of my peanut butter sandwich as I watched a comrade curse his way up.
Gear recommendation: A single rack of cams was suffice. Don't need anything larger than a #2. Wide section has two bolts on it.
What was I thinking picking an offwidth as a warm up climb before 9am and before I had coffee. I wanted a fight today and this climb gave it to me. 3 very distinct sections, the first 2 are offwidth using various techniques to make progress and the 3rd is a really nice hand crack. More people should get on this, I love watching others on Offwidths.
I would firstly pay homage to the small finger crack deep inside that helps one alteast get off the ground whilst holding on to some worthless self esteem. After that the fun begins; rewinding every Wide Boyz vids I have ever watched and digging deep in my move encyclopedia; arms bars, chicken wings, heel toes, hell even had to use double fist stacks on a few occasions.
Slipped and spat out multiple times; my meaty hind and loins always came to the rescue. Just keep breathing and fight on (obscene language is very much permitted). Once past the wide bit, the PTSDs made the last crack section look deceptively hard. On me toes, I stitched that baby up so much that there was gear everywhere and nowhere to hand jam. Alias, I survived (mentally) and finished rest of my peanut butter sandwich as I watched a comrade curse his way up.
Gear recommendation: A single rack of cams was suffice. Don't need anything larger than a #2. Wide section has two bolts on it.