Routes in Sand River

Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but dusty. The line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs.

Crack in the middle of the wall.

Up thin hand crack until into finishes, avoid shrubs, clip the bolt on Valentine and then up finishing up through the crux of Valentine.

The wide corner crack (no big gear required). Finishes by traversing right to Terradactyl DBB.

Was retro-bolted at cleaned by the two climbs in combines before it existed. Starts at the base of "Working Class Heroes" and traverses into the top of "Riffraff Roof". Crucial BD (0.75) at base, high groundfall potential until 1/3 of the way up the route. Also much more easily climbed by using the bolts that are already there.

Nice to revisit techniques from the olden days. Climb the crack clipping the bolts on Sunbeam. When this becomes too difficult, run it out trad style or place one or more 1/2-2 cam units (also trad style). Clip the Sunbeam anchors.

Straight up starting on top of the pile of rocks. Don’t use chossy corner of death.

On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.

Thin moves up the line, a little easier to the left

A great mix of styles up the right side of the prominent buttress. Holds appear when desired. Will improve with age

Rising traverse. Start at Yang, traverse up and across the other routes to the left, finishing at the rap station on The Dust Up.

Starts from the 'Via Appia' ledge, a few metres right of 'Pleb's Rusticus'.

Starts 3m left of Unnamed 401. Through the roof and the pleasant wall above.

Starts through the right hand end of the overhang, then takes the corner/seam above, finishing at the Alea Jacta est RHF anchors.

Featured steep slab near right end of wall.

Smooth climbing on smooth rock.

Nice technical moves on the bulging wall just left of Wild Boar. Not a bad idea to stick clip the first bolt.

Slab to juggy overhang then overlap to hanging slab. Really good fun.

Starts from 'Via Appia' ledge.

Next line left of A bridge to Far

Up the small buttress right of Gin and Tonic. Sharp holds

Steep and exposed. Up corner system to level with anchors on Deputy Warden, then blast up the steep wall to the right.

Some lovely thin moves with the crux at the top. Takes the left line up the slab left of the big roof

A ticklish start and a steep, very ticklish finish. Fun.

Just left of blocky arête to finish on the slab above. Much better than it looks with some lovely holds

Start just right of 'Via Appia'. Up corner, moving right onto sub Buttress (Minions Wall).

Short bouldery route starting just right of ‘three daggers’, finishes up Hercules.

The left line of bolts on the main overhang

The much-viewed line up the wall and across the lip of the large roof. Spooky traverse to finish is the crux. Don't get sucked into reaching for the dirty top of the crag until you are at the lower off. Best cleaned on second. Take care both in stepping out above the roof, and in lowering off [watch your fingers!]. Nice climbing with an airy, photogenic position at this grade. Not easy to toprope.

This steep little number climbs out of the cave about 6m left of the start of Crossing The Rubicon. Powerful start to an awkward rest. Then a technical traverse to the lip. Has fixed quickdraws on the route, but no loweroff on the anchors. Easiest to touch the anchors then jump!

The mythical triple link starting up Gatorade traversing all the way right and finishing up A Bridge too Far. Extend the anchor of Gatorade.

Up direct to DBB on 'Bucko Boys'.

self confessed as tasmanias most prolific retro bolter, overhung sandstone..., supposedly it bulges

The way off route variant which involves heading into the cave next to way of the dragon, gr25 at best and barely, if you use a knee pad to obtain the second no hands rest give yourself a 24, still ok but not the real line.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

A few meters right of Crest, a black and evil looking corner...

Left side of lovely pillar just left of Terrace Wall

one of the best lines of its grade at Sand river, RP said and i quote "That was fucking awesome" has to be telling you something, get on it.

Start up the dordle warmup slab, traverse right following the large scoop and blast your way up the final pillar headwall, There is a fixed cable draw at the start of the traverse to assist with cleaning should you make it to the top, be sure to clip into it on the way back down. definitely worth the walk here.

The mega link up, start on Hercules, reverse three daggers slopey traverse, and finish on Caligula. It’s long, contrived and needs to be bolted properly but hey... if you get bored, it’s fun! (Down climbing at the waterfall to rest is for losers and you only get to take half the grade)

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

Wall climbing immediately right of Gin.

Corner into steep wall

Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and going up the middle of the head wall.

Not as good as the original, but the original has a high standard, pretty cool climbing

The buttress a few meters right of Midas Touch. A thin start then up as it steepens over bulge

The line up the middle of the main overhang, right of fire wall.

Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete.

Climb up the average looking start covered in bird shit. Great climbing keep away from the nasty looking flake, an attempt was made to remove it, there is an obscure way around it, heart breaking finish.

Start directly under the waterfall,upwards to the top ledge however you please, then begin your traverse left through some awesome moves, and surprisingly outstanding Crimps and ledges, to the final spicy move, a lot of foresight into this route from one of the emperors of the colloseum

Bust out left at the 5th draw

A nice little route. Short but sweet. Funky climbing down low and a steep finish.

Right of fire starter, solid tick for the grade.

Nice wall climbing on the short wall 40m right of TMMFE.

Short arete. First route at sand river.

overhung technical sandstone climbing Finish direct

To the right of First Offence. Climb the smooth slab to ledge, step right and then head up wall, moving left at top to finish at First Offence rap station. Harder if you climb direct without moving right.

A Sand River classic. Steep and athletic climbing, with a dyno, multiple heel hooks and an energy sapping finish.

Start to the left of the arête. Finish up the arête at the top.

At the left end of the big roof is a ridiculously steep right trending weakness. Steep moves to start soon gain the obvious roof crack. Out this, and get established in the right facing corner system above. Move up and right to anchor. Classy climbing. There is a captive biner at half height to help with cleaning.

Starts as for Alpha 9 but at the roof take the right hand line.

Anyone who has spent a day "on the brushes" at Sand River will understand the name... Line immediately left of the large tree. Neat climbing, excellent for the grade, on really good, clean rock. Up the short wall and continue up to left of crack.

Direct finish to Hercules has a vicious boulder problem guarding the chains.

Climbs the bottom arête then the headwall to the right.

Smooth wall with a bulge on next buttress right from Minions.

Finger crack then thin face on left side of buttress. Start from high ledge (there is a belay bolt), or belayer can stay on the ground.

Face left of terrastomp

Up the nose of the buttress, with a harder move or two to negotiate the steepening midway. Nice climbing.

Best done as two pitches as a fall from the crux overhang on Pitch 2 could mean hitting the big recessed ledge if belayed from the ground - clip a screwgate to the DBB to protect crux move.

1. 17m, Grade 11 The crack line to DBB. 8Þ

2. 5m, Grade 15 Technical pull through the roof to the crack above. 4Þ