Routes in Oatlands

Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Grade needs confirmation. Stand start low on the arete, left hand moving between lip and face holds, right hand stays on arete. Finish over highest point on boulder.

A big reach to holds in the little corner - the first ascent was by a very tall person reaching across to the top holds, this problem is considerably harder using the lower holds. The low hold has now broken and is bigger, and goes from here at about V8.

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Start on low crimpy rail 3m right of Groove Train, up to slopers then head left to finish at nose.

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

Very hard. Sit start as for Fade to Black, up into the rib and hard left via big move to finish as for Angels on the Sidelines. Will add several grades to Fade to Black

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Stand start but very reachy to first hold. A crucial foothold has snapped off, making this climb much harder. Grade is unconfirmed.

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Stand start the double water groove just to the left of the cave arete.

Obvious jugs and undercling to topout - no feet on the boulder to the right of start. It might stay dry in rain, but your shoes won't!

Dyno to top from good hold

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.

Start as for Flounder, do the first moves and head left around the bulge into the water runnel via the big sloper. Stay away from the corner and the knee bars. Stand start from big sloper up the water runnel goes at v3.

Up to the left of the overhang

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge.

Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs.

Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip

The low start to 'angels on the sidelines'. Start on sloping crimps just below the 'sexy' graffiti. Adds a few hard tension moves.

Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.

5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block.

Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem

Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble.

Out through roof and top out.

Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs

Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb.

Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry

Project - Sam's project through roof

Sit start as for Congaline Of Suckholes and finish as for Frogger

Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs.

Sitstart and up into curving undercling

Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga.

Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil

Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.

Dylan Hill

Start as for Frogger and finish as for Congaline by climbing all the way into Congaline and doing its finishing move

Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout.

Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.

Sit start from opposing side pulls then climb Kim’s Highball (stand).

Sit Start Start using RH crimp and very low left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout. Probably v3ish from one or two moves in.

Start at the start of the Nettle Lover traverse and climb up to the high ledge and the top.

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.

Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove.

Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.

V3/4. Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.

Hang start on low ledge with your heel up. Move right along the line for a couple of metres to finish on jug. The extension through the lip and top out would probably go.

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.

As for 1.Green but move right via good holds to arete, then to top.

Variation: Out of confusion as to exactly where Roundhouse goes, most people tend to do the slightly easier 'Roof-Pocket' variation which uses the big roof pocket instead of the slopes and pinches. This variation goes at around V5

Go upward from part way along the rail.

Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton

Rock onto the blankish black slab and to top via mossy holds. Fun slab problem.

SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline

Starts on same starting hold as V5 Flat Out, move up and head right to 'nose' of boulder and mantle over right around the lip

SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5.

Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.

Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.

Right hand arete and slab.

Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out.

SDS on slopey pockets, then up to big left jug and mantle.

slab to left of stump

Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted.

Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel

Slab to right of stump

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish.

Sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer