Routes in Oatlands

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

Sitstart on pedestal on the left edge of cave and head out right to top out Note: This was originally put up as V7...general community consensus grade seems to settle in at around V5

Obvious jugs and undercling to topout - no feet on the boulder to the right of start. It might stay dry in rain, but your shoes won't!

Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder.

Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble.

Update: The final move linking Bongo in the Congo into Rumble in the Jungle has broken and further deteriorated in around 2013/14? The linking move is now considerably harder and Bongo in the Congo including the last move now goes at around V6. Historical Grade, V4..

R to L traverse of sloper rail, finishing up to jug under roof. Great rock.

A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.

SDS under roof left of Sanguine Direct. Out, around bulge to finish on the same jug hold as Sanguine Direct.

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.

Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs.

Direct SDS to Sanguine. Start under roof, moving through slopers on the face. The finish is the same as Sanguine

SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Same start holds as Flat Head. Up on slopes & crimps.

Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

Start off undercling in back of the cave climb two moves into thriller in Manilla

Up corner steeply on big jugs

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out.

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

After starting Rumble head right to lip, finishing on right side of capstone.

Was V7 until starting hold broke. Start on undercling and broken sloper.

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof.

Sitstart up short hanging corner

Traverse from the huge juggy sloper to the right as far as possible

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Left to arete then up it.

Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.

Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds. Sometimes a little sandy after it hasn't been climbed for a while, but a real classic.

SDS with hands matched in little cave, right hand out to sloper on lip, heel hook and difficult mantle to top

Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.

Dylan Hill

Up thin wall to slopey topout.

Start on the slopers right hand side of Acid Reign. Up to same finish

Variation: Out of confusion as to exactly where Roundhouse goes, most people tend to do the slightly easier 'Roof-Pocket' variation which uses the big roof pocket instead of the slopes and pinches. This variation goes at around V5

SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5.

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Slab to right of stump

Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.

The slab to the right of green rock on pockets.

Dyno to top from good hold

Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga.

Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out.

Up to the left of the overhang

Sit Start Start using RH crimp and very low left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout. Probably v3ish from one or two moves in.

Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton

Out through roof and top out.

Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder.

SDS up over lip on knobs and up knobby slab, needs a lot of cleaning!

As for low traverse but hands only on the thinner line

Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug.

Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip

Start as for V2 out to lip sloper, then big move left to left hand crimp and sketchy mantle

SDS up black groove on slopers

SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline

Start as for Flounder sitstart and traverse the lip leftwards, head up on crimps about 1 metre right of Rumble, finish as for Rumble.

Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle.

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout.

Start roughly in the middle of the Sanguine traverse, directly under the roof pocket on slopers, bust straight up and finish as for Roundhouse.

Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish.

ricky slab directly below right hand stump.

Up to flake and then jump to top.

Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.

Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted.

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

Go upward from part way along the rail.

Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs

Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not.

Sit Start at the flake up via small edges jump to finish jug

Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb.

Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start.

slab to left of stump

Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug.

Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble.

Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip.

Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove.

Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry

Start 1m left of the v3 up to small edge trend right and finish at the same point as the v3

Sitstart and up into curving undercling

Starts on same starting hold as V5 Flat Out, move up and head right to 'nose' of boulder and mantle over right around the lip

Sitstart from flake.

Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value.

Start on jugs on the back wall 2m left of El Nino. Straight out to lip then finish right and up.

Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino

Start at the right hand end of the cave. Out to lip then up and slightly left.