Routes as sport in Sand River

A clean wall with a thin move near the top

Thin moves up the line, a little easier to the left

Smooth climbing on smooth rock.

Up the nose of the buttress, with a harder move or two to negotiate the steepening midway. Nice climbing.

Up the right side of the buttress, passing the protruding flake on its left, followed by some neat moves back right onto the nose and up the overhanging headwall.

A few meters right of Crest, a black and evil looking corner...

Some lovely thin moves with the crux at the top. Takes the left line up the slab left of the big roof

The much-viewed line up the wall and across the lip of the large roof. Spooky traverse to finish is the crux. Don't get sucked into reaching for the dirty top of the crag until you are at the lower off. Best cleaned on second. Take care both in stepping out above the roof, and in lowering off [watch your fingers!]. Nice climbing with an airy, photogenic position at this grade. Not easy to toprope.

Starts up the steep left side of the buttress, stepping right onto the nose and then back left over the overhang with some interesting moves gaining the upper arête. Climb past the tree on the right, slightly harder if the tree is not used, to the lower off's.

Extended boulder problem up the right hand arête. Either start at the base or skip the easy slab by scrambling up to the ledge at the start of Jack Horner and get straight to the business.

The overhanging corner on the right.

A route can have as many variations as it damn well pleases! From the toe of the buttress follow the direct line of bolts up the face. Thin start, tricky move onto slab then jugs to the finish. It is (un)fortunately possible to escape the crux and climb up the crack to the right at a more amenable grade 13.

A variation really. Right line using crack to avoid crux of HD - same bolts can be clipped

A girdle traverse from the start of Storm(y) in a D-Cup up to the lower offs on Shady Deals. An absolute hoot, as much of a challenge for the second as the leader. Start as per Storm(y) in a D-Cup, up this for 3 bolts then across at this level till pulling up over the break on Shadow Play, traverse across to Shady Deals and up to its finish.

On the left side of the the steepening wall behind the big tree root. Thoughtful and fun.

What a surprise - thin start followed by good climbing to the top.

Starts on the left side of the wall, with the crux moves coming in the initial steeper section and a thinnish move at the very top.

Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile.

Classic of the crag. Sustained interesting climbing the whole way. Excellent.

Lovely climbing passing a series of small overhangs on the right side of the wall.

Entertaining climbing up the arete with a cut loose move to boot!

Up the groove to the right of Shady Deals to join at bolt 3.

A right to left rising traverse that is quite sustained. Climb Shady Deals Variant to SD bolt 3, then keep moving left, clipping the 3rd bolts of Shadowplay, Deep State, and Witch Hunt. A few thin moves here lead to the 4th bolt of Enemy of the People, the 5th bolt of Annica, the 6th bolt of Storm(y), then the last bolt and loweroffs of Keep Calm.

Straight up from the little alcove at the bottom.

Straight up starting on top of the pile of rocks. Don’t use chossy corner of death.

The king line for this crag, non stop intense climbing from the ground to the anchors.

Right hand finish, maybe slightly harder.

The short, steep arete.

The left arete of the main face. Do a high stick clip to protect the bouldery start on the right, then head left past a big heuco to the arete and up.

Continually steepening grey streak about 5m right of left arete of main face.

To the right of the central cave. Reachy but straightforward cracking to a good rest, then an intense sequence up the overhanging bulge. Tough to onsight.

Start as for Grey Goshawk, then head right up juggy wall

Bouldery start, leads to an easier finish, stick clip the first bolt

Thin start, heads right at the break and finishes up spotted tail quoll

Hard start difficult to read easy finish

Slab and headwall just to the left of where the track meets the cliff.

Scramble up left of the bouldery start of Lucifer Direct, and stretch right to clip the high first bolt. As for Lucifer Direct.

Arete with bouldery start just left of where access track meets the cliff.

Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete.

Start on good holds in break a metre or two left of unquenched. Dino for the jug and finish up unquenched. Best to have first few bolts of UQ clipped first.

Shares the same powerful start of unquenched, then traverses leftwards along the seam and finishes over the bulge with a mantle finish, only has one u at the end of the climb probably need to back jump to clean anmyway, or second up.

Start just left of the crackline. Crank leftwards onto the overhanging rounded arête, then up and over bulge via pockets and horizontals to slab (DBB). Lower off, or step right to finish as for Welcome to the Dark Ages.

Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.

The short slab of immaculate stone under the roof requires steel fingers and some fancy footwork.

Bouldery start as for Glowing Embers, but continue straight up through overhang to a slopey anchor clip.

On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.

Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish.

Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall.

The left line of bolts on the main overhang

The line up the middle of the main overhang, right of fire wall.

Right of fire starter, solid tick for the grade.

Adam Bogus's old line.

Up hanging courner then traverse right and pull the roof. Chill on the ledge and pull a funky boulder to the chains.

Up Fawks to break but instead of busting the weird boulder, move right into Firestorm and pull some big moves up the hanging arete.

Brilliant.

Direct start to fawks, less pumpy, more bouldery. Better, more sustained finished to trend right at the top but can be finished up fawks original as well.

project gaz

At the top of the pillar there is a short steep juggy line. Description is as the name infers, but if your new to it all it will probably be enjoyable, There is a fixed handline to the belay, you can be lowered all the way to the ground after threading the anchors make sure your rope is long enough and you knot the end.

Featured steep slab near right end of wall.

Steep and exposed. Up corner system to level with anchors on Deputy Warden, then blast up the steep wall to the right.

The orange streak. Glorious jug hauling leads to a harder finish

The wall to the right of Stella's Climb.

Interesting climbing on the left side of the turret.

Nice moves up the bulging arête, with the crux at the top. For full value start at the base and avoid stepping right onto the block.

Finger crack then thin face on left side of buttress. Start from high ledge (there is a belay bolt), or belayer can stay on the ground.

A Sand River classic. This wall and arete looks many grades harder from the ground, and offers great moves and positions. Thin traverse right to gain the glorious arete.

A fine climb up the left side of the front of the buttress, with a couple of crux sections.

A great mix of styles up the right side of the prominent buttress. Holds appear when desired. Will improve with age

The corner system on the south facing right side of the buttress. Physical climbing up the initial corner, then tough laybacking around the roof let with poor feet.

Engaging and varied climbing, with a mix of steep moves, technical mantles, and thin face climbing

Steep climbing on jugs that keep appearing when you need them.

Short powerful overhang.

The overhanging crack. Steep and exciting climbing on good rock.

Follow the crack up to the first bolt. One spicy move leads to fun grade 18 clmbing.

Start on the stepped ledge. Clip the first bolt on Cleganebowl then head for the arete.

Get hype. The smaller buttress to the left of the wall provides good steep climbing.

Interesting technical climbing. Climb the wall, using the arête to finish.

A great sequence of moves characterise this direct finish. Possibly an easy tick for the grade for the thin wall specialists. Start as for DDD, moving right into hanging corner at overlap. Straight up thin wall above.

A sustained journey starting as for DDD, then climbing diagonally right above the lip of the cave and finishing at the MOM loweroff.

Excellent varied climbing on the wall right of the central cave.

Face left of terrastomp

Short arete. First route at sand river.

Very short route on the far left of the cave.

First bolted line right of Hydra. Climbing starts from the ledge, stick clip the first or carefully climb to it. Not the best climbing but on amazing rock.

Starts 3m left of Unnamed 401. Through the roof and the pleasant wall above.

At the left end of the big roof is a ridiculously steep right trending weakness. Steep moves to start soon gain the obvious roof crack. Out this, and get established in the right facing corner system above. Move up and right to anchor. Classy climbing. There is a captive biner at half height to help with cleaning.