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Routes in The Panopticon

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 121 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
The Far East
22 Xanadu

Technical crux at 5m, after reaching the ledge continuing up kubla khan makes for a 30m pitch

FA: Dave Stephenson, Jun 2018

Sport 10m, 5
17 Kubla khan

FA: Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, Jun 2018

Sport 20m, 11
21 Hybrid Vigour

A nice little route. Short but sweet. Funky climbing down low and a steep finish.

Set: Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & John Fry, 2018

Sport 12m, 4
21 Freeloader
Sport 14m, 4
18 Gin

Left side of lovely pillar just left of Terrace Wall

FA: Tony McKenny & Dave Stephenson, May 2018

Sport 10m, 5
20 Tonic

Wall climbing immediately right of Gin.

FA: Dave Stephenson, May 2018

Sport 10m, 6
23 Plonk

Up the small buttress right of Gin and Tonic. Sharp holds

FA: Neale Smith & Ben Maddison, Sep 2020

Sport 12m, 5
19 Wallsend

FA: Bob Bull, May 2018

Sport 14m, 6
23 The magic pudding

FA: Stu Scott, May 2018

Sport 13m, 6
23 Possible

FA: Dave Stephenson, May 2018

Sport 14m, 7
22 Schadenfruede

FA: Stu Scott, May 2018

Sport 14m, 6
18 Absent friends

FA: Ben Maddison, May 2018

Sport 13m, 5
19 Set in stone

FA: Ben Maddison, May 2018

Sport 14m, 5
17 Mollycoddle

The sixth line up the vague crack weakness

FA: Bob Bull, May 2018

Sport 13m, 5
21 Comedy of errors

Interesting moves to a thin finish

FA: Stu Scott & Bob Bull, 2018

Sport 12m, 4
20 Intelligent design

Overhanging right hand arete

FA: May 2018

Sport 12m, 6
17 The Channel Highway
Trad 18m
19 Risk A Verse
Sport 15m, 6
22 Wednesday's Groove
Sport 15m, 6
19 Fine Dining
Sport 15m
Panopticon Central
16 Huntsman

The left most line

FA: Bob Bull, Neale Smith & Ben Maddison August 2019

Sport 12m, 6
15 Tread Lightly

Quality slab climbing

FA: Bob Bull, Neale Smith & Ben Maddison September 2019

Sport 10m, 4
12 Laughing Clowns

Start on the RHS of the small tree

FA: Maddison, Smith & Bull August 2019

Sport 10m, 4
16 Whistlin Past the Graveyard

Route on the furthest right of the wall before the arete of slideshow. Steep start.

FA: Maddison, Bull, Smith & August 2019

Sport 10m, 5
22 Sideshow

Short steep and stepped Arête on the RHS of the Slideshow wall, first bolt is a little high and the belay is on a steep dirt hill

FA: Neale Smith/Ben Maddison September 2019

Sport 8m
14 Baby Brother
Sport 7m
16 Twisted Sister
Sport 7m
15 Flipper
Sport 12m, 5
20 Ball Saver
Sport 12m, 5
20 SDTM
Sport 12m, 5
21 Pinball Wizard
Sport 12m, 5
18 Shape Shifter
Sport 17m, 8
16 Sick Day

Well conceived climb up the wall right of Shape Shifter

Sport 14m, 6
13 Twofa 1

Short steep crack/groove feature right of Sick Day. May be a tad harder than 13? Shares a DBB with Twofa 2

FA: Tony McKenny & Jim Duff, Jun 2022

Sport 4
Twofa 2

Aka "The Day of the Jackal". Where old carrion eaters congregate ready to steal a route from unwary young climbers... Start just to the left of the first bolt and then a direct line to the rap station. Steep and thoughtful climbing, easier near the top. A very thin alternate start by DB to the right at 20-ish added November 2022

FA: Tony McKenny, Jim Duff, Dave Stephenson, Bob Wilson & alt start Domhnall Brannigan, Jul 2022

Sport 5
17 Copacetic

The left hand buttress with a prominent gum tree halfway up. Up the buttress then climb the upper arete on the right hand side to the top.

FA: S.North, C. Watson & B. Bull, Dec 2017

Sport 16m, 8
17 Jesus is My Vaccine
Sport
20 Knowledge
Sport 12m, 5
22 Power
Sport 12m, 5
16 Bittersweet

Start in the middle of wall 12m right of Power and to the left of Deconstructionism. Up crack line, traverse right and then climb excellent brushed slab, keeping left at the top. An extender on the farthest bolt right reduces any rope drag.

FA: Tony Mckenny & Dave Stephenson, Dec 2017

Sport 22m, 10
20 Deconstructionism

Sharp arête on left wall of big corner leads to a step right over the top of the roof to follow blunt arête to right. Balance up the polished slab below the upper roof, finishing with hanging corner at top.

Set: Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017

Sport 25m, 12
18 Power Over Mind

Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.

Set: Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017

Sport 25m, 12
11 Port Arthur

Slab climbing to the right of Power over Mind. The bolts are spaced near the ground - not a first climb for a beginner leader.

FA: Chuck McGibbon & Bob Bull, Mar 2018

Sport 22m, 9
13 Guantánamo bay

Slab to the right of Port Arthur

FA: Chuck McGibbon, Mar 2018

Sport 24m, 9
14 Wormwood Scrubs

Serve some time on this route up the wall just left of the tree, with a couple of thoughtful bulges. Should clean up nicely with a bit of traffic - it’s got some nice moves! Possibly 15?

FA: Jim Duff, Bob Wilson & Tony McKenny, Feb 2022

Sport 17m, 8
17 Prohibition
Trad 18m
19 Break Out
Sport 18m, 10
20 Good Yard
Sport 16m, 9
20 Recidivist
Sport 17m, 9
23 Felicific Calculus

Clean wall climbing with a low technical crux and and a tough redpoint crux up high

FA: Stuart Scott, 2018

Sport 15m, 7
19 Fundamental Axiom
Sport 15m, 6
14 Utilitarianism
Sport 14m, 6
23 Pain
Sport 17m, 10
23 The Fine Line

Great wall climbing with a sustained crux series of moves on small slopey crimps to mount the bulge.

FA: Stuart Scott, 2018

Sport 17m, 10
21 Pleasure
Sport 17m, 9
19 Bentham's Nose
Sport 16m, 7
18 First Offence

Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but dusty. The line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs.

Set: Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland October 2017. & Ingrid Crossland, Oct 2017

Trad 16m
16 The "Grand" Slam

To the right of First Offence. Climb the smooth slab to ledge, step right and then head up wall, moving left at top to finish at First Offence rap station. Harder if you climb direct without moving right.

Set: M.C, Tony McKenny, Ben D & Edith A, Mar 2021

Sport 15m, 5
11 The Meditative State

Anyone who has spent a day "on the brushes" at Sand River will understand the name... Line immediately left of the large tree. Neat climbing, excellent for the grade, on really good, clean rock. Up the short wall and continue up to left of crack.

Set: Tony McKenny, M.C, Bob Bull & Dave Stephenson, Mar 2021

Sport 15m, 6
16 Addendum

Second pitch option for "The Meditative State" or "Swansong". Slightly awkward / bouldery move up a corner and over small roof to slab finish with DBB.

FA: T.McKenny & J.Duff, Nov 2022

Sport 8m, 4
14 Swansong

The line just to the right of the tree.

FA: Tony mcKenny, 2021

Sport 15m, 6
15 Jug-u-lar

Best done as two pitches as a fall from the crux overhang on Pitch 2 could mean hitting the big recessed ledge if belayed from the ground - clip a screwgate to the DBB to protect crux move.

  1. 17m, Grade 11 The crack line to DBB. 8Þ

  2. 5m, Grade 15 Technical pull through the roof to the crack above. 4Þ

Set: Jim Duff, Stu Scott & Carol Hurst, Sep 2020

Sport 22m, 2, 13
15 Lichen it or leaf it

A mammoth cleaning undertaking has unearthed this lovely route just right of jugular. Thin start at 16 with slightly easier but sustained interest to the lower offs. Still a fair bit of dirt and soil around - take care.

Set: Jim Duff & Renae Ferrar, 14 Nov 2020

Sport 17m, 8
17 Last Orders

Intricate start (crux) which may tend towards 18 the more directly under the first bolt you start, then pleasant moves up the slab

FA: Jim Duff, Dave Stephenson & Tomy McKenny, Sep 2021

Sport 12m, 5
19 The Parting Glass

Difficulties short but sweet. Climb past the obvious hole and blast directly up the blunt bulging arête. After the steep sequency crux the difficulties ease to pleasant climbing up the slabby arête and into groove

Set: Domhnall Brannigan, Jim duff & Jo Kippax, 23 Nov 2020

Sport 15m, 6
15 Zippety do dah

Start at bottom right hand corner of the wall, bouldery moves straight up to a corner, through the overhang and on to the hanging slab above. Screw gate on first bolt is safer, and keep right when lowering off to avoid the cave! Alt start to left is easier but can be a bit dirty from the loose stuff in cave.

Set: Tony McKenny, Jim Duff, Nick Eccleston & Oliver Crawford, Sep 2020

Sport 19m, 9
14 Scraping the Barrel

Line on buttress to the right of Zippety. Crux moves out to right of the vegetation in the middle section. Steeper than it looks!

Set: Jim Duff, Tony McKenny, Neale Smith, Bob Wilson, Neale Smith & Bob Wilson, Nov 2023

Sport 10m, 5
12 Hee
Sport 8m
14 Haw
Sport 8m
10 3G

FA: J. Boucher, Cadi Pritchard, Eli Pritchard, Lex, Toby Bull & Bob Bull, Feb 2018

Sport 16m, 6
12 Stolen Days

Up the dusty ramp right of 3G and the big cave is a rib topped by a short slab. Climb these - the crux is at the cleanest part of the slab. Rock slightly crumbly - take care - it should clean up with traffic.

FA: Jim Duff, Neale Smith & Tony McKenny, Sep 2021

Sport 12m
13 Meat Hook

Short line up the sub-buttress left of Widow Maker.

FA: Jum Duff, Jim Duff & the plebs, Sep 2021

Sport 8m, 5
10 Widow Maker

FA: Jim duff, Oliver Crawford, Nick Eccleston & Tony Mckenny, Sep 2020

Sport 10m, 6
11 Chopping Block

FA: Jim Duff, Oliver Crawford, Nick Eccleston & Tony Mckenny, Sep 2020

Sport 9m, 5
17 The Dust Up

Fun, technical slab with a tricky start.

FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 26 Jan 2020

Sport 13m, 5
13 The Brush Off
Sport 13m, 4
14 Join The Circus
Trad 13m
15 Sovereign Power
Trad 15m
14 Klink
Sport 15m, 5
13 Feeding the rat

FA:

Sport 16m, 7
13 Ying

FA: Nov 2019

Sport 13m, 5
13 Yang

FA: Nov 2019

Sport 13m, 5
10 The Rising

Rising traverse. Start at Yang, traverse up and across the other routes to the left, finishing at the rap station on The Dust Up.

Sport 20m, 5
16 Crime and Punishment
Sport 17m, 7
17 Guilty, as Charged
Sport 16m, 7
18 Impeachment

Start to the left of the arête. Finish up the arête at the top.

FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017

Sport 17m, 7
18 Special Prosecutor

Climbs the bottom arête then the headwall to the right.

FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017

Sport 17m, 8
18 Join The Dots

Linkup - Climbs the bottom arête of Special Prosecutor then the top arête of Impeachment.

FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017

Sport 17m, 8
13 Disciplinary Power
Trad 16m
16 Impetuous Youth

Slab to juggy overhang then overlap to hanging slab. Really good fun.

FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 3 Feb 2021

Sport 15m
14 Last Gasp

Just left of blocky arête to finish on the slab above. Much better than it looks with some lovely holds

FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 3 Feb 2021

Sport 15m
19 China Shop

FA: Bob Bull & Stu Scott, Apr 2018

Sport 15m, 7
22 Casadastraphobia

FA: Hamish Jackson, 2018

Trad 15m
18 Feng Shui

FA: Bob Bull, Ben Maddison & Neale Smith, Mar 2018

Sport 23m, 8
Panopticon South
16 Chutzpah

FA: T. McKenny & N. Smith, Mar 2018

Sport 10m, 5
18 Stitched up
Sport 10m, 5
18 Light Fingered Mckenny

FA: Stu Scott & the Plebs, Apr 2018

Sport 10m, 6
17 Haiku

FA: Bob Bull, Mar 2018

Sport 12m, 6
20 Cat Burglar

Corner into steep wall

FA: Neale smith & the plebs, Apr 2018

Sport 12m, 5
19 Kaiden Fox Climb

FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, Apr 2018

Sport 12m, 6

Showing 1 - 100 out of 121 routes.

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