Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Far East | |||||
22 | Xanadu
Technical crux at 5m, after reaching the ledge continuing up kubla khan makes for a 30m pitch FA: Dave Stephenson, Jun 2018 | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | Kubla khan
FA: Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, Jun 2018 | 20m, 11 | |||
21 | ★ Hybrid Vigour
A nice little route. Short but sweet. Funky climbing down low and a steep finish. Set: Ben Maddison, Neale Smith & John Fry, 2018 | 12m, 4 | |||
21 | Freeloader
| 14m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Gin
Left side of lovely pillar just left of Terrace Wall FA: Tony McKenny & Dave Stephenson, May 2018 | 10m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Tonic
Wall climbing immediately right of Gin. FA: Dave Stephenson, May 2018 | 10m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Plonk
Up the small buttress right of Gin and Tonic. Sharp holds FA: Neale Smith & Ben Maddison, Sep 2020 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Wallsend
FA: Bob Bull, May 2018 | 14m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The magic pudding
FA: Stu Scott, May 2018 | 13m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Possible
FA: Dave Stephenson, May 2018 | 14m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Schadenfruede
FA: Stu Scott, May 2018 | 14m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Absent friends
FA: Ben Maddison, May 2018 | 13m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Set in stone
FA: Ben Maddison, May 2018 | 14m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Mollycoddle
The sixth line up the vague crack weakness FA: Bob Bull, May 2018 | 13m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Comedy of errors
Interesting moves to a thin finish FA: Stu Scott & Bob Bull, 2018 | 12m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Intelligent design
Overhanging right hand arete FA: May 2018 | 12m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ The Channel Highway
| 18m | |||
19 | ★ Risk A Verse
| 15m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ Wednesday's Groove
| 15m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Fine Dining
| 15m | |||
Panopticon Central | |||||
16 | Huntsman
The left most line FA: Bob Bull, Neale Smith & Ben Maddison August 2019 | 12m, 6 | |||
15 | Tread Lightly
Quality slab climbing FA: Bob Bull, Neale Smith & Ben Maddison September 2019 | 10m, 4 | |||
12 | Laughing Clowns
Start on the RHS of the small tree FA: Maddison, Smith & Bull August 2019 | 10m, 4 | |||
16 | Whistlin Past the Graveyard
Route on the furthest right of the wall before the arete of slideshow. Steep start. FA: Maddison, Bull, Smith & August 2019 | 10m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Sideshow
Short steep and stepped Arête on the RHS of the Slideshow wall, first bolt is a little high and the belay is on a steep dirt hill FA: Neale Smith/Ben Maddison September 2019 | 8m | |||
14 | Baby Brother
| 7m | |||
16 | ★ Twisted Sister
| 7m | |||
15 | ★ Flipper
| 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Ball Saver
| 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ SDTM
| 12m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Pinball Wizard
| 12m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Shape Shifter
| 17m, 8 | |||
16 | ★★ Sick Day
Well conceived climb up the wall right of Shape Shifter | 14m, 6 | |||
13 | Twofa 1
Short steep crack/groove feature right of Sick Day. May be a tad harder than 13? Shares a DBB with Twofa 2 FA: Tony McKenny & Jim Duff, Jun 2022 | 4 | |||
Twofa 2
Aka "The Day of the Jackal". Where old carrion eaters congregate ready to steal a route from unwary young climbers... Start just to the left of the first bolt and then a direct line to the rap station. Steep and thoughtful climbing, easier near the top. A very thin alternate start by DB to the right at 20-ish added November 2022 FA: Tony McKenny, Jim Duff, Dave Stephenson, Bob Wilson & alt start Domhnall Brannigan, Jul 2022 | 5 | ||||
17 | Copacetic
The left hand buttress with a prominent gum tree halfway up. Up the buttress then climb the upper arete on the right hand side to the top. FA: S.North, C. Watson & B. Bull, Dec 2017 | 16m, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Jesus is My Vaccine
| ||||
20 | ★ Knowledge
| 12m, 5 | |||
22 | Power
| 12m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Bittersweet
Start in the middle of wall 12m right of Power and to the left of Deconstructionism. Up crack line, traverse right and then climb excellent brushed slab, keeping left at the top. An extender on the farthest bolt right reduces any rope drag. FA: Tony Mckenny & Dave Stephenson, Dec 2017 | 22m, 10 | |||
20 | ★★ Deconstructionism
Sharp arête on left wall of big corner leads to a step right over the top of the roof to follow blunt arête to right. Balance up the polished slab below the upper roof, finishing with hanging corner at top. Set: Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017 | 25m, 12 | |||
18 | ★★ Power Over Mind
Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs. Set: Dave Stephenson, Oct 2017 | 25m, 12 | |||
11 | ★ Port Arthur
Slab climbing to the right of Power over Mind. The bolts are spaced near the ground - not a first climb for a beginner leader. FA: Chuck McGibbon & Bob Bull, Mar 2018 | 22m, 9 | |||
13 | ★ Guantánamo bay
Slab to the right of Port Arthur FA: Chuck McGibbon, Mar 2018 | 24m, 9 | |||
14 | ★ Wormwood Scrubs
Serve some time on this route up the wall just left of the tree, with a couple of thoughtful bulges. Should clean up nicely with a bit of traffic - it’s got some nice moves! Possibly 15? FA: Jim Duff, Bob Wilson & Tony McKenny, Feb 2022 | 17m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Prohibition
| 18m | |||
19 | ★ Break Out
| 18m, 10 | |||
20 | ★ Good Yard
| 16m, 9 | |||
20 | ★★ Recidivist
| 17m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Felicific Calculus
Clean wall climbing with a low technical crux and and a tough redpoint crux up high FA: Stuart Scott, 2018 | 15m, 7 | |||
19 | ★ Fundamental Axiom
| 15m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Utilitarianism
| 14m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Pain
| 17m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ The Fine Line
Great wall climbing with a sustained crux series of moves on small slopey crimps to mount the bulge. FA: Stuart Scott, 2018 | 17m, 10 | |||
21 | ★★ Pleasure
| 17m, 9 | |||
19 | Bentham's Nose
| 16m, 7 | |||
18 | First Offence
Good moves, well protected (small wires and medium cams) but dusty. The line on the left hand side of Rawl's Slabs. Up the corner at the left side of the slab, into a fine groove and flake to lower-offs. Set: Ben Maddison, Ingrid Crossland October 2017. & Ingrid Crossland, Oct 2017 | 16m | |||
16 | The "Grand" Slam
To the right of First Offence. Climb the smooth slab to ledge, step right and then head up wall, moving left at top to finish at First Offence rap station. Harder if you climb direct without moving right. Set: M.C, Tony McKenny, Ben D & Edith A, Mar 2021 | 15m, 5 | |||
11 | ★ The Meditative State
Anyone who has spent a day "on the brushes" at Sand River will understand the name... Line immediately left of the large tree. Neat climbing, excellent for the grade, on really good, clean rock. Up the short wall and continue up to left of crack. Set: Tony McKenny, M.C, Bob Bull & Dave Stephenson, Mar 2021 | 15m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Addendum
Second pitch option for "The Meditative State" or "Swansong". Slightly awkward / bouldery move up a corner and over small roof to slab finish with DBB. FA: T.McKenny & J.Duff, Nov 2022 | 8m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Swansong
The line just to the right of the tree. FA: Tony mcKenny, 2021 | 15m, 6 | |||
15 | ★ Jug-u-lar
Best done as two pitches as a fall from the crux overhang on Pitch 2 could mean hitting the big recessed ledge if belayed from the ground - clip a screwgate to the DBB to protect crux move.
Set: Jim Duff, Stu Scott & Carol Hurst, Sep 2020 | 22m, 2, 13 | |||
15 | Lichen it or leaf it
A mammoth cleaning undertaking has unearthed this lovely route just right of jugular. Thin start at 16 with slightly easier but sustained interest to the lower offs. Still a fair bit of dirt and soil around - take care. Set: Jim Duff & Renae Ferrar, 14 Nov 2020 | 17m, 8 | |||
17 | Last Orders
Intricate start (crux) which may tend towards 18 the more directly under the first bolt you start, then pleasant moves up the slab FA: Jim Duff, Dave Stephenson & Tomy McKenny, Sep 2021 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ The Parting Glass
Difficulties short but sweet. Climb past the obvious hole and blast directly up the blunt bulging arête. After the steep sequency crux the difficulties ease to pleasant climbing up the slabby arête and into groove Set: Domhnall Brannigan, Jim duff & Jo Kippax, 23 Nov 2020 | 15m, 6 | |||
15 | Zippety do dah
Start at bottom right hand corner of the wall, bouldery moves straight up to a corner, through the overhang and on to the hanging slab above. Screw gate on first bolt is safer, and keep right when lowering off to avoid the cave! Alt start to left is easier but can be a bit dirty from the loose stuff in cave. Set: Tony McKenny, Jim Duff, Nick Eccleston & Oliver Crawford, Sep 2020 | 19m, 9 | |||
14 | ★ Scraping the Barrel
Line on buttress to the right of Zippety. Crux moves out to right of the vegetation in the middle section. Steeper than it looks! Set: Jim Duff, Tony McKenny, Neale Smith, Bob Wilson, Neale Smith & Bob Wilson, Nov 2023 | 10m, 5 | |||
12 | Hee
| 8m | |||
14 | Haw
| 8m | |||
10 | ★ 3G
FA: J. Boucher, Cadi Pritchard, Eli Pritchard, Lex, Toby Bull & Bob Bull, Feb 2018 | 16m, 6 | |||
12 | Stolen Days
Up the dusty ramp right of 3G and the big cave is a rib topped by a short slab. Climb these - the crux is at the cleanest part of the slab. Rock slightly crumbly - take care - it should clean up with traffic. FA: Jim Duff, Neale Smith & Tony McKenny, Sep 2021 | 12m | |||
13 | Meat Hook
Short line up the sub-buttress left of Widow Maker. FA: Jum Duff, Jim Duff & the plebs, Sep 2021 | 8m, 5 | |||
10 | ★ Widow Maker
FA: Jim duff, Oliver Crawford, Nick Eccleston & Tony Mckenny, Sep 2020 | 10m, 6 | |||
11 | Chopping Block
FA: Jim Duff, Oliver Crawford, Nick Eccleston & Tony Mckenny, Sep 2020 | 9m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ The Dust Up
Fun, technical slab with a tricky start. FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 26 Jan 2020 | 13m, 5 | |||
13 | ★ The Brush Off
| 13m, 4 | |||
14 | ★★ Join The Circus
| 13m | |||
15 | ★ Sovereign Power
| 15m | |||
14 | ★ Klink
| 15m, 5 | |||
13 | ★ Feeding the rat
FA: | 16m, 7 | |||
13 | Ying
FA: Nov 2019 | 13m, 5 | |||
13 | Yang
FA: Nov 2019 | 13m, 5 | |||
10 | ★ The Rising
Rising traverse. Start at Yang, traverse up and across the other routes to the left, finishing at the rap station on The Dust Up. | 20m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Crime and Punishment
| 17m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Guilty, as Charged
| 16m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Impeachment
Start to the left of the arête. Finish up the arête at the top. FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017 | 17m, 7 | |||
18 | ★ Special Prosecutor
Climbs the bottom arête then the headwall to the right. FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017 | 17m, 8 | |||
18 | ★ Join The Dots
Linkup - Climbs the bottom arête of Special Prosecutor then the top arête of Impeachment. FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Tony McKenny, Jun 2017 | 17m, 8 | |||
13 | ★ Disciplinary Power
| 16m | |||
16 | ★ Impetuous Youth
Slab to juggy overhang then overlap to hanging slab. Really good fun. FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 3 Feb 2021 | 15m | |||
14 | ★ Last Gasp
Just left of blocky arête to finish on the slab above. Much better than it looks with some lovely holds FA: Jim Duff & Domhnall Brannigan, 3 Feb 2021 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ China Shop
FA: Bob Bull & Stu Scott, Apr 2018 | 15m, 7 | |||
22 | ★ Casadastraphobia
FA: Hamish Jackson, 2018 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Feng Shui
FA: Bob Bull, Ben Maddison & Neale Smith, Mar 2018 | 23m, 8 | |||
Panopticon South | |||||
16 | ★ Chutzpah
FA: T. McKenny & N. Smith, Mar 2018 | 10m, 5 | |||
18 | Stitched up
| 10m, 5 | |||
18 | ★ Light Fingered Mckenny
FA: Stu Scott & the Plebs, Apr 2018 | 10m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Haiku
FA: Bob Bull, Mar 2018 | 12m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Cat Burglar
Corner into steep wall FA: Neale smith & the plebs, Apr 2018 | 12m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Kaiden Fox Climb
FA: Stu Scott, Dave Stephenson & Neale Smith, Apr 2018 | 12m, 6 |