Routes in North West for selected grade

Low tide only. Stand start below the bulge on the ocean side of the first boulder. Up through the scoop as for First Breakfast.

Start with hands in the break, feet on the slopey overhang. Rock over, hug the block to the pinnacle. Don't fall.

SDS.

SDS.

SDS.

SDS. Can be done in either direction

Start in the break and top out up the slab.

Stand start. Straight up the centre of the face.

On the great steep boulder just below the sport routes. Only climbable at low tide. Start right hand on a side pull and left on perfect square sloper and go straight up.

It's a shame this face doesn't have a nice flat landing as it would be a great boulder problem at the current height. Or if it was twice as long it would be great sport route. Head straight up past the bolts for a few very thin and quite technical moves.

Straight up the center of the face.

Sit start, up through the black scoop.

Standing start between two small boulders. Left hand in jug, jump to juggy rail, traverse right till the rail ends, up and over. Fun campus traverse or feet available.

Traverse either direction. From #1 all the way over to the tussocks and back.

Middle of face on wall facing “the table”. Eliminate the big hold for more challenge

To the right of the fractured small corner, then up next tier to lookout

Starting in the chasm, straight up the crack.

Sit Start on juggy rails and move up through crimps and topout

Stand start on good feet and climb up the cool jugs and topout.

Climb detached pillar using thin cracks either side. The top 2/3 of the block is detached lots of movement when pulled outwards when topping out

Stand start on jugs and move up the pillar with cool holds. Topout above the start

Stand Start matching the high horn. climb up the face with disco moves and topout.

Standstart in the not-so-chimney and climb up the not-so-chimney then topout.

Next crack R, finishes just to the Left of Sunshine.

Start hanging on the jugs and follow them right and then top out above.

Start below small roof and then move up over the roof avoiding large boulders to behind. Finished up on jug on the face and step off or alternatively a high and easy top out.

About 30m L of where you scramble through the gap in the ridge is a bulging roof with a triangular wall under it. Hand traverse along the triangular wall until able to pull over the bulge, then straight up the wall above. Retrobolts removed Jan 2018.

Up Lazy Lob until you're above the bulge and then finish up Sachsenweg.

Excellent steep climbing with an exciting finish up the arete.

3 meter right of "Nubile Nymph", climb the easy crack up to the arret passing 3 bolts.

Up the arete.

On the backside past left arete.

Just left of the arete, following the purple rock to the top. Excellent.

The first left bend as you traverse toward cape crusader. North East facing cliff. Climb up the crack, continue diagonally R and up to the small roof, then climb L and up under the roof.

The well protected central crack line with varied classy climbing, the route leads up and behind the imposing pillar. climb the crack direct through a corner into a slightly overhanging crack, layback to ledge without escaping right or left. Climb up chimney with small protection to the top of the pillar, jump or bridge the gap across incut ledge to topout and belay.

Steep, cliff splitting crackline, with lots of chimney and v- groove climbing. A directissima to the Foresight-South Peak Col. Take at least doubles to 4 camalot, large sizes are useful.

Approach over the Acropolis or from Geryon camp, there is a rock bivvy called Heim at the cliff base several hundred metres north of Orion.

Descent: One 50m, or two 25m raps to get down the west face from the col, then scramble/walk south to meet the Geryon Camp track below Geryon South Spur.

Pitch 1: 60m Starting in gully. Up chimney to scree slope, at 60m there is a protruding rock on the scree slope you can anchor to.

Pitch 2: 50m Up the scree slope and rock to the base of the chimney.

Pitch 3: 45m 15 Up the chimney-corner, a nice pitch.

Pitch 4: 40m 18 Up, passing a tricky move negotiating a steep groove, to the base of an awkward short steep groove. Some grotty rock.

Pitch 5: 50m 18 Difficult start, then up corner with grotty, stalactite-like features, to ancient carrot bolts in alcove below 2m roof crack.

Pitch 6: 35m 19 Chimney the roof and pull the lip, from here, some hard crack climbing leads to a gnarly vegetated groove. Save a 2 or 3 camalot for the belay.

Pitch 7: 30m 19 More tough groove climbing, easing off to juggy chockstones.

Pitch 8: 20m Up to the top, at the cave/roof crack there is an easier corner around to the left (I think)

A big day out in rarely climbed terrain on the West Face of the Acropolis. Graded at 19M1 but would go free at 21/22.

The three first ascensionists were benighted and had to spend the night weathering out a storm under a single space blanket and makeshift shelter.

Take your best set of brushes to clean the moss from those lovely cracks, be prepared to kick off the odd bit of choss and unleash the froth as you crank your way up some great climbing.

Approach as for The Plenipotentiary and start at large boulder near the start of The Plenipotentiary. Tat and mallions are required for the descent raps. Pitch lengths are approximate.

• P1: (12) Up vegetated slope, aiming for obvious deep orange crack. (25m)
• P2: (12) Traverse left and up to corner crack on large ledge. (15m)
• P3: (17) Up corner crack to large tooth shape block. (25m)
• P4: (17) Up corners and ramp to top of large chock. (25m)
• P5: (17) Up dirty corner on left to large vegetated ledge. Aim for obvious twin crack system up and left. (15m)
• P6: (19) Up superb twin splitter crack to large vegetated ledge. Can use huge block as anchor. (25m)
• P7: (22) Up thin and technical corner crack to large ledge. Should be at same height of The Plenipotentiary pinnacle. (20m)
• P8: (17) Right and up off width chimney. (10m)
• P9: (10) Exposed traverse into vegetated exit gulley and then protect as you work up the path of least resistance to summit. One slip on the vegetation would send you plummeting several hundred metres to the valley floor. Rope up, take a parachute or be prepared to turn into a red smear if you slip. (50m)

Descent:

• Walk along ridge to the next west facing green gulley.
• Approx 20m rap off chock at top.
• Scramble down until large cliff and locate to large chock on left side of descent gulley. 60m rap.
• Scramble down until end of gulley and locate large wire and torque nut/hex on right side of gulley. 65m rap (doable with rope stretch on two 60m ropes).

Up the clean but adequately featured face two tiers down from the top of the hill.

Buttress across from oooeee, up wide crack through bulge to ledge. Continue up easy crack. Can be done in one pitch.

The first sport route uphill from tomahawk buttress on its own small buttress. Unknown origin

Starts 10m left of steep gulley