Routes in South East for selected grade

This has now been bolted.

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Start with the 2 first bolts of Bad Habits, go right around the arête to the big hole and then up to the chains

Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

Steep line of big moves between good holds to the left of Circles.

Stand start at Circles and traverse left along the line of jugs and out along the lip of the cave. Top it out, but watch for the hollow sounding jug.

This climb is on the obvious bulge to the left of the drain feature. Start on rail and climb up to high slab topout.

Sharing the same arete as Frankest of shadows. Start left hand using the arete and right hand using a low side pull.

Sit start at break. Up on orange slopers then jump to rail.

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

Start with 6 bolts of 'Totally Awesome' continue past the step for 2 bolts in 'Open Festering Wounds' traverse L in the apparent bolt face to climb the last 3 bolts of 'Serial Driller'

Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. Lots of loose rock so take care. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors. A block with the crux hold worked loose mid-2017 increasing the grade of the climb from 20 (to 21 or 22).

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

Climb the cruxy corner to the second bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

A line between JBMHD and BLTC. Avoid the temptation of the large holds on climbs either side. Possibly could be described as a bit contrived.

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then move right with great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

Climbs the steep thin crack-line about 6 m R of Heat Pump. DBB lower-off.

Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds

The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track.

ACCESS: Either scramble up 60m of vegetated ledges OR (Much better) climb Sleeping Dogs at Summertime Buttress then scramble up and left to the base of the butress.

Start at the base of the buttress and climb up to the left of the prow. Move onto the left face and up the sustained, flared cracks to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil to descend.

Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.

1. 20 - bouldery start which eases off to grade 18/19 climbing to DBB.

2. 21 - Up turrent, then delicatly back left passing 7 bolts to DBB.

3. 21/22 - Up black streak left of the belay, passing 9 bolts, to another DBB.

About 20m left of Kabling is a short inset wall.

1. 7m 14 - Climb centre of wall to belay on good ledge.

2. 33m 20 - A bold and testing pitch weaving up the weaknesses on the buttress above the right side of the ledge. Climb right side of buttress to traverse line. Move left to rooflet, then powerfully up to welcome rest. Follow the line up the left arete to the big roof, then move spectacularly right to ledge below final corner. Belay at tree at base of Janzoon.

Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

Starts at Phil's Crack just around right and up the gully from the start of Shrapnel. Ends by topping out on the Arena.

A stellar route, made awkward by its access. Best to do a route (Battlecruiser etc) that abseils down the Linda Chimney (or just climb the chimney). Either way your heading to the large ledge 10m up and left from the Abseil point 25m up the chimney (at the chockstone).

1. 10m 18 - Step nervously down, left, and onto the south face. Your faith will be rewarded with good gear,and a flake leading to a large ledge.

2. 30m 20 - The crux arrives early up the hand crack, before more varied terrain is reached. Heaps of gear and great exposure make this a classic pitch.

An alternative 2nd pitch to Starship Trooper and Battle Cruiser – start from the belay ledge shared by both routes at the top of their first pitches. Climb directly above the belay into a small left-facing corner to the right of the arête. Layback the flake above to a spectacular rest below a small overhang. Move straight up the arete, or slightly easier, step right and climb straight up a short wall (crux) to join Battle Cruiser at the diagonal trending flake. Continue up the rest of Battle Cruiser to the rap station.

A direct version of Twice. Start 2m right of Battle Cruiser. Follow thin cracks up and through roof to belay at BC ledge. Continue up the corner of Twice.

Steep start then keep following the U's

Sustained and consistent. An inverted small L-shaped roof/flake marks the start of this route.

1. 30m Climb a shallow corner to the small roof at 5m, which is turned on the L. Ascend a series of walls up and R to a ledge.

2. 35m Climb onto the block on the L and then up a thin crack to a small tree. Step back R and jam the crack to the top, belaying at some blocks near the Faust corner.

3. 35m Continue up the line of shallow corners on the upper wall R of Faust to a small ledge. Head up and L over a bulge into a hanging corner and continue to the top. Descend by first climbing up the short rock step behind where the route finishes, and then heading L and down a vegetated ramp with some down climbing sections, circling around to the Battle Cruise rap station from above. If you find yourself bridging up a tree, you're on the wrong path.

An average first pitch is a necessary task to access the excellent, airy arete of pitch 2.

1. 45m 18 The crack roughly 25m right of Third Bird. Continue through ledges and vegetation (delightful!) for 20m to belay at the base of prominent arete on LH side.

2. 52m 20 Up the face just left of arete for 20m, then step R to stance on small ledge. Continue following arete on RH side to belay at large Hakea at the top.

3. 10m A scramble up and right to access Acid Test rap station. Descent: 40m to double U bolt belay on Acid Test (hidden just left of Hakea), then 55m to ground.

Located 2m R of the Butt Funky fist crack, 2m L of a deep chimney.

1. 30m (18) Climb up the crack and wall to a hakea tree, then from the block behind the tree climb the steep crack/flake then up R on easier ground to a double U-bolt belay.

2. 2a. 40m (19) Climb up and then R onto the buttress and follow the weakness directly up the middle of the face (well protected) to a U-bolt belay. 2b. 15m (19) Alternatively, step across R directly from belay, over the top of the chimney, and climb steep but interesting thin crack up the arête, staying out of the chimney to the R. From a ledge at 10m either move L into Acid Test or make a difficult move up and R to the U-bolt belay on Heat (45m rap to bottom).

3. 40m (20) Up the crack on the R to the buttress above. Follow a thin line up the buttress until one can step L around the arête to a 6m long crack. At the top of this move back R and climb the excellent face above to a large ledge.

4. 5m Up the wall above to a rap station. Three rap stations provide safe descent. The final station is directly on the wall below the start of pitch 2 and is out of view until virtually on top of it.

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. Take a few mid-size cams for 15m of easy scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch. All belays are spacious ledges with DBBs.

1. 18m 21 Straight up the face. Cruxy.

2. 28m 21 Step right off ledge and follow black streak up face, eventually moving to left side of pillar.

3. 32m 20 Climb up arete to large ledge, ignore DBB for Acid Test (on left) and continue scrambling for a further 15m to base of bolted arete.

4. 25m 21 Straight up the arete.

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress

Nice arete with the crux at the top

Climb RH crack for 7 m, then move into LH crack and up to below a bush. Traverse L and onto arete to Nefarious anchor.

Start: Crack to the right of bolted arete (Nefarious 22)

Follow the finger crack to the right of Neon God. Continue until a solid stance 2/3rds of the way up, resist the urge to move towards the Neon god bolts and head right up the small corner. Traverse left to clip once level with the anchors of of Neon God (pitch one).

This route now has a direct start and finishes called 'The Directors Cut' 21

Mega off-width pitch, take some big gear.

Sustained on a impressive line, up higher at least... The steep crack on the S face of Upper Battlements Column. Most people rap in and climb the top 2 pitches only.

1. 36m Up crack and belay in shrubs.

2. 30m Up chimney (yuk), through rough and up crack to ledge

3. 36m Continue up crack to belay behind pillar

4. Easy climbing to the top

Clip the first two bolts on Dark Nebula, then step left and up past a few more bolts. A long traddy ramble follows (single set of cams and wires), before a thin finish past another 3 bolts to DBB.

A long and sustained pitch of face climbing on good rock. One of the better sports routes at the grade in southern Tasmania.

The crack-line up the front of Cossack Column.

1. 40m. Up the short corner on the L, before stepping R at the small bush to gain the main crack. Climb over the bulge to a belay.

2. 20m. Follow the v-groove around the corner to an easier ground.

The prominent crack up the front of Cossack Column. One of the best routes at the Organ Pipes.

1. 15m (19) As for Tartarus. Belay in small corner just below narrow ledge that heads right.

2. 45m (20) Travers right to the arete and follow intermittent crack lines up the column. Exit right under the block to the DBB.