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Ascents in Tasmania by Alex Mougenot

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Showing all 82 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Cape Raoul
8 Route from Wedding Cake to Cape Trad 300m
Fun scrambling along the Stegosaurus pitches. Nothing too hard, but worth roping up. If you fall, try to dodge the seal colony.

 
23 Certified Wise Sport 40m Classic
I felt wholly in the zone on this route. Quietly in tune with myself, the movement, the environment around us. A sharp focus, but 360 degrees of awareness. Perfect harmony, the entire way until the anchors. I'm grateful for such an experience as the last climb of what had been an incredible trip.

 
21 Disaster Master-Pole Axed Linkup Mixed trad 45m, 6
What a line! Great climbing the whole way, and so cool to climb on multiple aspects of the pillar! The position on that final arete is sick. Nicely lead Ryan.

 
18 Jihad Trad 30m
Nice!

 
18 Rain Of Terror Trad 30m
Bit of poor rock so it's smart to protect the start well incase a face hold breaks. Pleasant warm up along the way.

 
22 Pole Dancer Mixed trad 40m, 12
Flashed using Ryan's beta and draws. Stellar climbing in an even more brilliant position. Looking left and right it's all water, sea birds hunting, seals lazing around and fighting and doing seal things. Then the movement is not physical but flowy if you have your friction arete technique dialled. So good.

 
Sun 23rd Jan 2022 - Hidden Face
21 Psycho-Man - with Ryan Siacci
1 21 95m lead by Alex Mougenot
2 lead by Ryan Siacci
3 lead by Alex Mougenot
Sport 95m Classic
Good to revisit this! Spoogy day, but classy climbing. The rock and movement on the second pitch is lovely!

 
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
20 Daedalus Trad 55m Very Good
Mega! What a great, long OW line. Worthwhile bringing doubles in larger cam sizes, or other big paraphernalia as taking my larger cams for a walk is a slow process.

Loved this. Did in one pitch. Flashed as I sussed the gear on the rap in

 
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
The Gorge - Bouldering Shady Side Bouldering Lamp Post 17
V3 V3/4 Henry Barber Arete Boulder 3m
Great problem actually! Slippery feet at the start

 
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
The Shady Side Mindless Pinnacle
17 The Average Willy Trad 8m
Cool. Used a few hand stacks.

 
19 The Great Willy Sport 9m, 4
Good holds the whole way

 
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
The Shady Side Double Dozen Area
22 Double Dozen Trad 11m
Beautiful climbing and finger locks!

 
24 No Right Turn Trad 11m
Sorting gear and moves.

 
24 No Right Turn Trad 11m
Cool. Then business is over quickly. Good wires once you find them

 
V2 Double Dozen boulder problem Boulder 3m
18 Garbo Trad 11m
Cool wider jamming. Bit offwidthy.

 
17 Afternoon Delights Trad 11m
Nice jams!

 
Fri 21st Jan 2022 - Geryon & The Acropolis
Mt Geryon West Face
18 Mt Geryon Traverse (North to South) - with Ryan Siacci Alpine 140m
A fun experience and adventure. It's cool to traverse that part of the world through some rugged country, though the real highlights of this trip for me was the beautiful hike in to Line Valley, walking through otherworldly Labrynth clouded in a mysterious fog, and staying in the old school Pine Valley Hut.

Good learning in assessing tat quality and routefinding. I found the climbing on the 18 pitch to be quite enjoyable. I climbed the left chimney in one long pitch to the summit, with a bit of simulling, after initially climbing the chockstoned-chimney on the right and foreseeing too much rope drag.

Not mega classic for me, but still good fun. The Acropolis looks mega and will be the focus next time!

 
Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak
North-West Face and Blade Ridge
17 Blade Ridge Alpine 420m
Poor objective climbing on poor rock, though the INCREDIBLE exposure and position more than make up for this! The most unique route I've been on, and a highly valuable experience!

Lucked out with 5 days of no rain out there, though we awoke at 4:30am on Day 3 (our climbing day) to thick mist which made it harder to find the proper blade, ending up starting up the cliff just past the blade. After scrambling up 120m+ of scrub we realised this, abseiled back down into the gully off the R side of Blade Ridge, and fortunately found a way to mount the ridge from here.

At first climbing I was a bit out of sorts, not having done much of this style climbing for a long time, but after a few pitches I was back and firing to go. Battling drag is key on this for speed - the answer to this is usually running it out with the many aretes and corners to navigate. Man the ridge climbing is incredible! We reached the top of Blade Ridge at 6pm, and made the decision to not continue up the NW Face through the night and figure out the descent at night. Rapped and traversed into the left gully and climbed out back to camp.

Not without loose rock and poor gear, but heavy on exposure and position. Although the NW Face has a greater balance of good climbing movement, good rock, gear, and exposure - in my opinion the pure uniqueness of Blade Ridge trumps this.

 
17 The North West Face Trad 330m
After having done the Blade the day previously, Ryan and I were going to walk out. However, it was a blue bird day and the disappointment in not being able to climb the NW Face the day was still fresh in our minds. Mid-packing up at around 9am we decided to drag the trip out and climb the NW Face. Our excitement and satisfaction in the epic climbing of the day before propelled us up the NW Face which does not disappoint. Great position, the remoteness, decent climbing in certain sections, and good rock (apart from the roof traverse) makes this a classic!

What a trip blessed with amazing company, a feeling of being in another world, remoteness, uncannily bluebird weather, and out there climbing. Very thankful.

 
Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak
South Western Cliffs
5 The Normal Route Trad 100m
Downclimbing this was easily the most scared I was the entire trip. That view of the lake below the downclimb is awesome in the true sense of the word, and terrifying. After taking some time to compose myself, it wasn't so bad. Just have to keep moving slow and assuredly. What a crazy hikers route.

 
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns
21 Dark Nebula Sport 32m, 17
Awesome! Fun the whole way

 
20 Sirius Mixed trad 40m, 8
Took my time finding decent gear through the middle. Three flake was a bit weird. May have been better to run it out a bit instead!

 
23 Close to the Sun Sport 48m, 23
Just the first pitch unfortunately, but it was mega fun! Great punchy crux into stellar arete climbing. So much fun!

 
Wed 5th Jan 2022 - The Paradiso
23 Super Charger Sport 20m, 10
Low crux was fun and the top position is class

 
21 Shock Wave Sport 13m, 5
👌👌👌

 
17 Mixed Groceries Sport 10m, 3
The moves up the blank arete were ace.

 
21 Man's Machine Sport 32m, 10
More runout than I was expecting! Good line and cool bolting

 
25 Sultan Of Sweat Sport 32m, 12
Gave it everything I had to the point where I was so pumped gathering chalk in My hand was hard! Ended up getting spat off at the high, thin technical crux before the anchor! Great line that doesn't let up.

 
16 Unzip Sport 13m, 5
Pleasant

 
Fri 13th Dec 2019 - Cape Pillar
The Chasm
18 Awechasm Trad 25m
FFA. Haha still marvelled at why we climbed this after walking out all this way - but it was definitely worth it at the time, and probably got our eye in on climbing chossy dolerite cracks! Actually quite a fun technical wide-crack affair. Take plenty of bigger cams.

 
20 Captain C-Bomb and the Mulleteers - with Ryan Siacci
1 20 120m lead by Alex Mougenot
2 lead by Ryan Siacci
3 lead by Alex Mougenot
Trad 120m
What a rad experience! Everything about this adventure feels like it has catalysed a step up in my climbing - from the big hike-ins and gear shuttle-runs, to the reccying, rapping in, cleaning and then climbing of the face in a committing position. Whilst a far-cry from my original goal of putting up a new sea-to-summit route on the face, I'm still super happy with the adventure we ended up having! Will return to link this to the grassy ledge below, though will need to bring more big gear.

Didn't climb the first pitch clean as I had to lower and retrieve gear as I already used my double #1s and #2s and had 15m of #1/#2 crack to go to the top! Will need triples (or quadruples?) next time. Also had a boogie-board sized rock almost come out of the crack and land on my ropes, though just managed to stop it with my feet before it came out. Spookyyyy.

1st pitch was the standout imo - a sustained corner splitter with few cheat holds on the faces. 2nd pitch had cool moves on great rock off the deck, then a fun, scary, 8m runout to the anchor in up and around a blunt arete (good work Shabbi!). 3rd pitch was megaaa with fantastic climbing up twin/triple corner cracks to the summit on sub-par rock that spiced things up a bit haha.

 
Wed 11th Dec 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
23 Antimatter Sport 25m, 9
Bloody brilliant!

 
28 Simply The Best Sport 20m
Toughhh but sweet as climbing the whole way! Nice spaced bolting too.

 
Wed 11th Dec 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Low Starting Point)
16 Pneisses - with Ryan Siacci
1 16 240m lead by Ryan Siacci
2 lead by Alex Mougenot
3 lead by Ryan Siacci
4 lead by Alex Mougenot
5 lead by Ryan Siacci
6 lead by Alex Mougenot
Trad 240m Good
Very nice slabbing in the style of an old school adventure. For some reason the runouts took us by surprise when we should have taken note of the date of the FA and been expecting them haha! Loved it. Sorta did a pitch of Japhlion instead of the 3rd pitch then got back on track afterwards

Also - Got lost on the approach and rapped off some random bolts, got our rope stuck, then had to climb some random crack + runout slab on a single half rope to get back to the anchor! Will log it as a new route at some point and see if it has been done before. Wasn't half bad.

 
Wed 11th Dec 2019 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress
19 No More Mr Nice Guy - with Ryan Siacci Trad 25m Classic
One of the best pitches I've done. Hands down.

 
21 Tetragrammaton - with Ryan Siacci Trad 20m
Just the second pitch to top out NMMNG. Whaaaaat harder than it looked! Bit spoogy and crusty up top, but awesome! Had to dig deep and go full primal to get up thos.

 
Tue 3rd Dec 2019 - Bare Rock
Main Face
23 The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk Sport 33m Good
Had to project the start then came down and sent, onsighting from the 3rd bolt up ... Slightly spoiled by the nails bouldery start, but don't let that discourage you as they rest of the slab is amaaaaazing! Very classy slabbing.

 
26 Cock Rocket Sport 30m
Super cool moves! Rock is fairly suspect, but not too bad. Some heeeeavy crimping on this one after the crux, and a sick double Gaston move at the crux unlike anything I've done before. Good learning! Unfortunately no chance to give it a second shot, though it's good to rest my fingers anyway

 
Mon 2nd Dec 2019 - Bare Rock
The Block
25 Blockhead - Left Hand Variant Sport 10m, 7
25 Blockhead - Left Hand Variant Sport 10m, 7
Toughhhhest 25 ever! Crimpy fiend but a lot of fun. Good moves the whole way that I didn't find straightforward at first.

 
24 Fore Boy Sport 12m, 10
Used Ryan's beta for the crux. Fun powerful moves as the start, then interesting sandstoney slab to the top.

 
Mon 2nd Dec 2019 - Bare Rock
Main Face
21 Yesterday's Hero Sport 45m
So good! Rock is slightly fragile but there are so many bolts there's no reason to be scared,! Beautiful delicate slabbing.

 
19 Tomorrows Dream P3 - with Ryan Siacci
3 19 50m lead by Ryan Siacci
Sport 50m
Just the third pitch after Yesterday's Hero to get to the Supernaut area. Awesome rock!

 
Tue 22nd Dec 2015 - Ben Lomond
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress
17 Barbe Di Vendetta
1 lead by Me
2 lead by Omri
3 lead by Me
Trad 90m
A good intro to Ben Lomond without getting into a marathon crack, I reckon. Last pitch was superb (before the choss).

 
19 Ramadan Trad 80m
Holy crap was this sustained! Some funky footwork helped me through this! Almost a chimney, but not really haha. Incredible line, and a great finale for my trip.

 
18 Rajah (Rajah P1)
1 lead by Me
Trad 80m
Unbelievable crack perfection in that first half. I was climbing the top crack, while still laughing in disbelief of how awesome the first section was! I highly recommend this!

 
Sun 20th Dec 2015 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Dungeon
26 Art of War Sport 12m, 5
Coooool bouldery crux off the deck that I could only just make. Had no endurance for the end, though, after this big day.

 
Sun 20th Dec 2015 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Leviathan
22 Floating in the Jetstream Sport 15m
21 Yuddy Boody Noo Sport 15m
22 No Antidote Sport 15m
This, Yuddy, and Floating have sort of merged in my head now. All I remember is that there were so many little moves that it felt like 30m of climbing, not 15. My brain just about exploded on this, as did the front of my calves on those tensiony slopy footers. Wish we had more of this style back home.

 
Sun 20th Dec 2015 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall
19 Chip Chimney Sport 11m
23 Wrath or Revival Sport 13m
Start was hard, then it layed off a little. Pumpy for the length, like all the routes here it seems.

 
26 Small But Perfectly Formed Sport 15m
Spent waaay to long trying to nail the start.Ended up getting all the moves bar 1 or 2. I was totally dumbfounded! Climbs like this make me feel like I need stronger fingies ... Good learning, though, and it was good to take a beating and sit on the rope this trip.

 
24 Hung on a Tree Sport 13m, 5
24 Hung on a Tree Sport 13m, 5
24 Hung on a Tree Sport 13m, 5
Didn't expect this to turn into a project, but lost all my endurance on crimps after Small But Perfectly Formed. I reaaaaally wanted this bad. Haven't felt that projecting fire for a while.

 
21 Sugar Mountain Sport 10m
20 Another Lazy Autumn Day Sport 7m
Sat 19th Dec 2015 - Frenchmans Cap Area
Frenchmans Cap East Face
19 The Ninth of January Trad 160m
Was going to get on The Lorax, but hearing the story of a climbing team who retreated off it the day before put us off. Maybe next year. Did this instead to smash out a shorter one, but ended up taking us longer cos of uncertain routefinding and us being unaware of the scramble-death topout! Pitch 2 was the standout. Bring double ropes! Would've been hell with a single.

 
Thu 17th Dec 2015 - Frenchmans Cap Area
Frenchmans Cap South-East Face
17 The Chimes of Freedom Trad 270m
(Sorry Gene. Couldn't be bothered with descriptions on my phone!) Brilliant. Just brilliant. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone, not even most people, but I highly recommend it for those with a head for adventure, spaced gear, and exposure! What a route, though. I discovered that a small part of me enjoys the delicacy required when climbing on choss (like the first and last couple pitches.

 
Thu 17th Dec 2015 - Lake Huntley
23 How Hard Can it Be?
1 lead by Me
2 lead by Omri
3 lead by Me
4 lead by Omri
5 lead by Me
6 lead by Omri
Sport 170m
Intriguing rock in an amaaaazing position. When we reach the belay at the bottom of P1, we looked down at the lake to sea a huge eagle circling with it's wings outstretched. Cold day, though. Couldn't feel the holds as we were climbing. That, combined with the crimpiness and complex rock made the climbing suuuper confusing for me. Forced some good technique though. The whole experience of the hike-in, sleeping in the cave, postcard scenery, and solitude in such a place makes me want to come back

 
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Hazards Main Wall (Mid Level)
18 Trucks Have Wings Trad 45m
Getting through those bolts was slabby!!! Haven't climbed proper slab since Girraween a year ago. Awesome to get back into it, but the twin cracks for the next 35/40m is where it's at.

 
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Lassie's Wall
16 Rose Ramble Trad 22m
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress
18 Harlequin Trad 28m
This was a bit of a fight. Cool and interesting cracks, though. What a contrast in dynamic from the climb to the topout.

 
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Freycinet National Park
Coastal Cliffs Whitewater Wall
19 After the Goldrush
1 lead by Me
2 lead by Me
3 lead by Omri
Trad 70m
That 2nd pitch!!!!!!! That's what I'm about! I was on such a high after figuring that traverse out Do iiiiiit!

 
17 Baystone Blues Trad 45m
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
16 The Moai Escape (The Moai Eascape.) Trad 60m
Linked pitches in approach shoes and trailing my backpack through the chimney!

 
22 Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up (Blunt instrument linked into Burning spear p2) Mixed trad 35m, 8
I love climbs that take you on a journey! Going direct at the finish was diceyyyy.

 
24 Ancient Astronaught Sport 35m
Linked pitches. Fell at the start a couple times until I found the hold that escaped me. Onsight from there to the top. Some thin techy sequences! How can one pillar have such nice routes?

 
18 Sacred Site Mixed trad 30m, 2
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - Hidden Face
21 Psycho-Man
1 lead by Me
2 lead by Me
3 lead by Omri
Sport 95m
Me and Omri both agreed that the 2nd pitch was the nicest pitch of climbing we've done. Couldn't stop smiling and laughing up it! It felt like I was climbing on granite! Blank, but featured. Wouldn't have been surprised if P! and 2 were graded up to 23, though. Was in a way bummed that the dyno move wasn't a forced dyno. The sequence to that hold, and from the bucket to the anchors really made me think!

 
20 22 Seaweed Groove Sport 18m, 5
Thought that maybe this felt solid because I wasn't used to this style, but I'm glad to see that others thought it felt like a 24/25 to them too. Subtle footwork with a lot of tension was the key for me. The sweet flow doesn't stop after the crux. The flake are to die for. Keen to get back on this.

 
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - The Paradiso
22 Sponge Bob Sport 12m
24 Thunder Birds Are Go Sport 25m, 9
What a crux! haha. Tones down from there, but enough to keep you going!

 
24 Offender Of The Faith Sport 30m, 10
Totally went the wrong way at the crux and almost blew it. Mega pumped for a while but managed to rest well and get it back. Awesome line. I love this crag! I love how every now and again it gives you these sneaky foot jams to to make your life easier.

 
22 Too Tall Oxen Sport 32m
Nice climbing the whole way. Pretty continuous climbing from memory.

 
21 Shock Wave Sport 13m, 5
What a cool line. Keeps you thinking, and on great holds.

 
17 High Noon Sport 10m, 4
Fri 11th Dec 2015 - The Parrot Shelf Cliffs
17 True Grit Trad 14m
Nice climbing up the flake.

 
16 Kelpie Trad 14m
16 Indigo Trad 12m

Showing all 82 ascents.

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