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Main Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14
14

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Ethic inherited from Fort Direction

Crag Stewards

Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (southarm@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.

Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.

Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.

Other

• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted

• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.

• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

A good steep problem on the left side of the small cave. Start sitting with hands on rounded ledge, feet high. Make a powerful move up and right to small hold on diagonal seam, left hand to small crimp on face, then cross through to finishing jug. Match and drop off.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 28 Oct 2022

Start sitting below the front of the overhung block, hands on jugs, feet on little back wall below overhang. Climb up and leftwards to finish on the ledge.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 28 Oct 2022

Sit start below overhung block, feet on little back wall. Climb up and rightwards to finish on the ledge.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 28 Oct 2022

Sit start on right side of the front face. The wedged block below is in for feet. Climb straight up to the ledge on sharp holds.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 28 Oct 2022

Sit start below the right arete of the overhung block. The wedged block below is in for feet. Climb directly to the ledge above.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 28 Oct 2022

Sit start. Climb up via undercuts to the slopey horizontal slot on the right of the upper wall. Finish at the break above. Slightly eliminate by not using the crack on the right at the top.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 25 Jul 2022

Sit start. Straight up to the break using the crack and holds to the right.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 25 Jul 2022

Sit start. Mantle onto the small ledge using the thin cracks in the face above.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 25 Jul 2022

Sit start with right hand on jug, left hand on square notch. Make a big move to the slot in the crack on the left, feet around the lip then stand up using edges on the face. Continue up the arete above to the upper break.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 6 Jul 2022

Sit Start. Climb the short wall to the jug up and right.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 6 Jul 2022

Sit start. Straight up shallow groove to upper break.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 6 Jul 2022

Sit start, head slightly right using a hole and big protruding pebble and up to gain the exploding crack above which is climbed to the upper break.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 6 Jul 2022

Sit start, move up and right using hole and large protruding pebble. Head up and right on good holds past the rust-coloured patches to finishing holds. Either traverse off right or reverse and jump off.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 30 Jul 2022

Sit start as for Limp. Traverse left with feet just above the lip all the way to the corner.

FA: Jack Colbeck, 25 Jul 2022

Information needed

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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