Routes in Hobart and surrounds

There is a DBB at the top.

Start 3m right of Third Bird

1. Climb the hand cracks on the wall several metres right of Third Bird, with some interesting moves through the niche above, to a belay on a scrubby ledge at single U-bolt.

2. Move left and climb the shallow corners and flakes just right of Third Bird, to belay at the rap anchors on the ledge below the overhang.

3. Move back right and continue up the wide cracks above to the top, taking care not to stray onto Third Bird. Descent: abseil as for Third Bird, or traverse left and down the scrubby corner/gully to the Battle Cruiser rap anchors.

The cleaned, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane. Desperate, sustained and technical flared finger/hand jamming leads to sustained bridging and jamming to the top from about halfway. Crux at the first bulge around 8m. A good test-piece before tackling Albatross at Lowdina.

1 Carrot Bolt and gear at the start. Back up top Bolt with sling to tree for belay/ abseil

Pitch 1: Ground level to obvious large chockstone (rap anchors present) Pitch 2: Up chimney and belay at base of huge corner Pitch 3: 3 variants - Direct (18) - Left of huge corner which becomes offwidth Chimney (15): Climb R wall for 5m, thenstep R up to ledge and finish up chimney

Starts 16m downhill of Fiddlesticks at the obvious body chimney in a shallow corner.

The crack / chimney up the centre of the column is a varied classic adventure.

The chimney crack 7m L of White Nile. Straight up the crack.

Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.

Start at thin crack between Pulpit Chimney and Pegasus

1. 35m (20) Follow thin crack and face with small gear to rest in v-groove. Step left to arete and follow crack system (as per Tearaway) to eventually reach top of huge flake.

2. 20m (14) Continue up wide crack as per Pegasus. Pitches can be linked with long runners

15m right of the central gully, twin cracks with an overhang halfway up the cliff. Jam the cleaner righthand crack (though it is still often slippery).

Unique and weird. Do it for the entertainment value. Tackles the prominent diagonal left leaning flake at the right end of the cliff. Struggle up the off-width chimney 3m left of Paladin until you can traverse out left at the flake. Move up the flake to a roof, swing left around the arête and finish up an easy chimney.

The prominent 12m spire that casts a spell on climbers and entices them over. There are several ways to the top. Rap station. Unknown, Sept. 1961.

The dirty gully come crack with a can embedded in it. Beware of loose rock.

A serious but rewarding single pitch route up the wall to the left of the obvious chimney ("Bert's Fear"). The first half of the route follows the line of least resistance up, trending leftwards, to the obvious large jug on the arete. The climbing on this section is sustained face climbing, with care needed to be taken with some loose rock to be avoided, and some devious gear placements to be found. Small wires very important. From the jug on the arete, the climbing is easier, following a series of short blockly corners up and trending back right to a ledge with two small trees and a cluster of fixed tat. From this tat, a single 60m rope will get you back to the deck (although you're probably better of leading the route on double ropes).

The overhanging corner crack on the left of the SSSH cave. Escape L.

The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner.

On of best pitches of 18 on the Mountain, following the arete to the right of Pulpit Chimney.

1. 35m (18) Start up Pulpit Chimney, then step right and follow crack system and then arete, moving left to base of offwidth then back right to arete. You can also continue up the offwidth if you like that sort of thing. At top of the huge flake climb a short wall up and left to belay on ledge to left of Pegasus.

2. 20m (12) Either finish up Pegasus p2 (14) or step around corner to left and climb cracks and then easy ground to top of Pinnacle.

second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time

Named after my son. Start as for V but travel up the cracks on R, SLCD and wires. On approaching ledge sling tree on L then head up staying R into steep corner, BR. Head out R onto nose and follow it up passing two RB’s.

Mega off-width pitch, take some big gear.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

From the belay at the top of Brown Madonna, wander up rock face on the left and continue straight up hand cracks to the left of the chimney. Traverse right at top to Bert's Fear DBB

Exciting moments to be had on the prominent hanging pillar R of Centurion. Bridge the offwidth corner 5m R of Centurion for 8m to a small roof. Traverse R under this onto the face of the column. Climb the finger crack past a problematic niche, surmount the large flake above, and continue more easily to the top.