Routes in Waterworks Quarry

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors. A block with the crux hold worked loose mid-2017 increasing the grade of the climb from 20 (to 21 or 22).

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

Climb the cruxy corner to the second bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

Start immediately R of PST, climbing just to the L of the UBs. Exciting climbing with some thin moves. The crux clip is now a little cruxier (Aug 2017), having lost a handy jug, adding a grade (from 19). May still shed a little rock so belayer beware!

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. Lots of loose rock so take care. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.

A line between JBMHD and BLTC. Avoid the temptation of the large holds on climbs either side. Possibly could be described as a bit contrived.

Start with 6 bolts of 'Totally Awesome' continue past the step for 2 bolts in 'Open Festering Wounds' traverse L in the apparent bolt face to climb the last 3 bolts of 'Serial Driller'

Start with 3 bolts of 'Bastard Cancer' traverse R, bolts 2-5 of 'Phantom Stone Thrower', continue up 'Ruddiocracy' then traverse to the anchor of 'Serial Driller' (crux)

Start with 2 bolts of 'Weetbix' traverse L then climb diagonally towards the anchor of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'

Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st.

A somewhat contrived line, yet opening new possibilities. Start halfway between Urban Renewal and Jesus Built My Hammer Drill. Lower section is a crimp fest, middle section a side-pulling stepladder, upper section a cruxy blank face. Stay centred on the bolt line and do not use holds to your left (Resurrection) or right (Jesus). Finish at the same anchor as Resurrection and Drilling in the Name of. In loving memory of Majo.

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

Discontinued due to chossy death risk.

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

Cheeky alternative start to Weetbix from the far right corner. Crimpy slab problem instead of the easy ladder of Weetbix.

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

A route squeezed in between PNSH and the rubbish rock to the right (use the arete to the right but don't venture further right). Kick right from the pedestal near the top to finish. Might not really be 19 but with a heavy fever and respiratory difficulty it just might be.

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs. NOTE: top section (to chains) is more technical due to block with holds shedding (May 2017).

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "The Blind Leading the Crippled" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

### Unfortunately the Owl has gone missing. ### Would be nice to find some fun replacement rock/s we could paint or keep as grip-lifting challenges.

Pinch and lift the owl painted rock with one hand. Pinching from the top.

Rules if you want a clean by the book send: To "send" The owl lifter must fully straighten up (back erect, legs and hips locked out); once standing straight, the lifter must maintain control of the owl for 1 second. Then lower the owl controlled way maintaining grip until the owl has returned to the ground.