Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Climb the crux of Genital thrust into the crux of Bad habits.

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

Suck Ethics

Anaphalaxis

Play Lunch

Wasted Daze

Left hand on good sidepull. Starts left heads a little right then back left to top out.

Start right hand low on the arete and left hand on centre of face crimp.

Start on long rail and mantle with not great feet. Or crimp and highstep to victory.

Start on sloped rail just right of the mossy corner. Move up and down and left via some funky moves then easy to finish up 4.

Start as for Lets Play Twister, climb this to juggy pocket then traverse the crag via start hold of Nice for What and crimps till you join The Deepest Sighs, climb this to the top.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing.

Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever.

Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005.

second pitch alternative to Blue Meridian or Fine Time

Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB

The thin line between Faust and Twice, up the thin seam through two overlaps. Looks bold.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

MIxed route left of Kacktus. Climb loose chimney on natural gear until top of pinnacle is reached. Step onto the right wall and follow fully bolted wall to ledge and DBB. There is a short extention to a second DBB.

Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge.

1. 33m 23 Follow Us up nose and arete to ledge

2. 15m 23 Continue up arete to another ledge

More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula

A steep, sustained and challenging crack that varies from a small seam to hand width, including v-grooves and a short chimney. Seeps longer than most climbs in the area. Climb the wall and thin seam to a thin corner, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue up the thin-hands v-groove to pass another bulge at half height. Continue jamming up the second v-groove (thin seam) and short chimney above, then pull around a huge overhanging flake to a stance at the Hakea tree near the top. Either ascend your fixed rope for ~8m (recommended approach), climb awkwardly past the tree, or abseil-off the tree back to the ledge where you can abseil from bushes or down climb (grade 14) back to the base of Cossack column. The crack has been thoroughly cleaned as of Jan 2023, which should keep it tidy from moss for the coming years.

Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB.

The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt.

The lightly vegetated, thin flared crack 3m right of the vegetated corner of Quarryman. Climb the crack and the shallow corner above.

A #4 Camalot make the top out more palpable.

The cleaned, well-protected crack just right of Hurricane. Desperate, sustained and technical flared finger/hand jamming leads to sustained bridging and jamming to the top from about halfway. Crux at the first bulge around 8m. A good test-piece before tackling Albatross at Lowdina.

The original free version. Starts up the off-width on the left before stepping right into the finger crack. Finishes around on the left at the end in an easy corner.

SDS - LH line up spaced jugs to top out

SDS. Sitstart off the block, and climb the thin face to the left of the overhanging crack

Precise climbing up a 90 degree arete at the edge of the ampitheatre. Landing is a steep slope, so bring a couple of pads and a spotter shaped like a bowling pin. From the base of Atlantis, face the city. Walk forward and slightly right, till at the edge of the ampitheatre. Either rap in (gear in crack at back of block) or throw down pads and scramble in.

SDS. Thin shallow crack in middle of face of boulder right at top of hill. Only use crack

Sitstart on rail then straight up on slopes

Entertaining climb; avoid using neighboring boulders.

Sit start on jugs to top out

Sit start on flake as for Fatman but move straight up. Don't back of block on right and mantle via Fatman block

Sit start

Sit/hang start on good crimp

Sit start. Traverse along the edge.

Sit start. Work up and around the diving platform.

Sit start, up the face from low left hand side pull and foot very low on small chip.

Stand start with left hand on good crimp, right hand on lowest part of sloper rail. Punch straight up and mantle over left hand arete of boulder.

Start as for Snowflakes but traverse the big undercling roof feature to the right and mantle the centre of the top slab.

Sit start as low under overhanging pillar as possible, feet on large slopey feature, slap your way to the top, mantle nose lip

Climbs the rail on the right of the Muffled Optimist boulder, tops out right of the prow.

Stand start on left hand sloper, big moves up right, then straight up for top.

Arm spanning slab & blocks at top.

From the Primis jug up

Steep arete

Hard sit start into easier moves.

This block is located just up the hill from Asylum Years.

Compression moves to big sloper to top straight up.

https://flic.kr/p/92sVw3

Stand start to Aimless Pillar, start with good sidepull on left at around half height and slopers on the right, top out straight up via mantle

Hang start of single hand slot in horizontal crack, move up and right to mentle the slab top.

20m down the hill. Sit start with a hand on each arete (if you can reach!) and feet on smears. This problem can either be done by moving to the right arete (which may be slightly easier) or by using both aretes the whole way and toe hooks to help.

Up the underside/rightside of the pillar, out over the tip

Sit start as low as possible and climb the left hand side of the split pillar. Avoid the crack or right hand side split rock and fridge hug the left part to the top.

Up the underside, top out over the tip, or escape easier to the left

Hug the face to the top

Good value seam. surprisingly good

Start with hands in horizontal crack. A great climb with some lovely moves.

The leaning line 3m left of Grunt. Classic steep slope problem. Sit start with right hand on slopey side pull rail and left on a small edge.

SDS. Start with hands opposed on column and feet on holds either side.

Start as for Trinamic, match on large exfoliated ledge on right hand side and move directly up to slopes before reaching over to top out jugs.

Start under boulder. Left hand on crimp right on lowest rail. Make a powerful move up and right and continue to top.

Start sitting on block compressing left hand low on rail right hand on low sloper/crimp. Compress your way out to jug on face. Top out needs more cleaning.