Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.

A long pitch of overhanging climbing, starting at the left end of the wave platform seperating tha Paradiso proper from the Aquaphobia Wall. Long reaches between incut holds characterise this line, which has been known to shed the odd piece of rock. Popular warmup for the harder routes, or a greatpitch to work in its own right. DBB.

Start in the wide crack right of 'High Noon' (or climb directly up the face) step L onto the face, interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004.

Fully bolted now

The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs.

You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds.

Classic introduction to pumpy and steep sandstone climbing. The anchor clip can be a bit of a stretch.

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)

Steep, sustained climbing following the incipient crack. A classic of the crag.

Another excellent route. Sustained face climbing leads to a cruxy move pulling through the small roof at the top of the cliff.

Follow the natural weakness (good wires) until it blanks out, then step right and climb the layback rail above via two bolts.

The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing.

The eye catching steep finger crack splitting the middle of the buttress. A gorge classic.

Start up the prominent crack line. A tricky layback sequence leads to the overlap. Make a technical traverse 4m left then finish up the pillar / arête feature to DBB.

Steadily increasing difficulties up the steepening technical wall.

Shares 2 bolts with Phoenix, before cranking through the right side of big roof to a DBB.

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

Well protected exciting moves on big features provides a very enjoyable climbing experience.

Varied and sustained on glorious rock. At the top of it's grade and difficult to on-sight.

On the left end of the main overhanging 'Fire Wall'. Boulder up the short left arete then trend right on immaculate rock to a rest at the base of a pillar. Up pillar to roof, and a strenuous pull on flakes.

The rap route and also the easiest way to escape the Hidden Face. A new wave classic and worth the walk just for the experience of the second pitch alone. Fully bolted.

1. 35m 22 From single bolt belay, follow line of bolts up easy ground, finishing with a couple of big moves to big holds just below the anchor. DBB.

2. 40m 21 Sustained, engaging climbing. Cross the slab bearing left into flake system, then up major corner. Move left around steep bulge to arete and up to DBB. Spaced bolts can be supplemented with small cams (BD 0.3, 0.4) and wires if desired.

3. 20m 18 Follow corner with a couple of big moves to finish.

Starts right of Sapphire Rose Start.

1. 23 30 m step left from the ramp then straight up to join Sapphire Rose at the final move through the roof to shared P1 anchors.

2. 23 18m up through roof then move right and up to ledge and DBB

3. 22 35m cross left over diagonal crack then up to slabby crux before trending right through steeper territory. Step right to DBB and abseil point after small roof, or continue past final 2 bolts to the Medicine cabinet. (40 m to there)

Access: Rap 35m to DBB at small stance to right, or alternately 45m to an even smaller lower stance on left arete.

Great climbing up cracks, ears, and rails. The "Deep Trunk" lower start is a stellar alternative if dry, adding a grade with 5 more bolts and 8m or so of more technical climbing.

Excellent climb on small crimps and slopers on the black face just left of the prominent crack.

Long moves between good holds. The 'chain' is level with the last bolt, about a metre r of the hole at the top.

Third on left, Shady Grove Wall. pleasant face climbing with distinct crux sections at half height and near the top.

If you forget about the last 3 bolts of Retrograde Amnesia you have amnesia but it does make for an awesome warm up 22 (the 4th & 5th last bolt has a single fixed bineer lower off.

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

After exiting the hanging corner on Alea Jacta, traverse right on good horizontal rail but poor feet, then launch up final nose to DBB.

Great wall climbing with a sustained crux series of moves on small slopey crimps to mount the bulge.

Lovely thin face climbing

A classic route of sustained quality and consistency. The route ascends the blank looking face in the middle of the cliff, Starting 10m left of Mornings Minion a rack of seventeen quickdraws and 2 ropes.

1. 35m 22 Fifteen bolts to chain. Ascend the juggy wall, pull through the roof and then head straight up to a good resting spot. Continue up the wall above to the L end of a diagonal line rising to the R. Make a spectacular and sustained traverse R to belay on a small foot ledge.

2. 15m 21 Five bolts to chain. Traverse delicately L and then straight up the tricky face to the belay ledge.

3. 28m 21 Nine bolts to chain. Take care getting to the first bolt, then climb the superb face above to belay below the final head-wall. Steep slab climbing at its best!

Next one right.

Superb overhanging corner to the right of arete. One of the best at Hillwood.

To the right of Good Friday is a thin slabby seam (crux) leading to steep jug hauling up high. Some loose rock around the rooflet, but a great long route to the top of the crag.

About 50m further R of the descent gully amphitheatre is a bolted line up a neat face beside a large eucalypt. Follows a beautiful natural line of features up the centre of the face with some superb, sustained face climbing. An intense, crimpy start, then some nice moves on big holds leads to the crux between the 7th and 8th bolt. A powerful move to gain the stance below the hanging flake, then some funky layaways and heelhooking on the flake leads to a good rest. Easy up the face until a sting in the tail just below the anchors on some rounded laybacks with little for the feet. A classic.

Solid for 22. Start at the left-hand side of the wall, heading directly upwards past 3 U's before delicately traversing right and upwards past another 3 U's to DBB lower-off.

Excellent thin face climbing with a very hard start.

Thin face climbing past a bolt leads to the superb hanging flake.

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder.

The corner on the arete, then up the slabby face.

Through overlap

Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.

Up right side of block at route base. Follow bolts, through several cruxes, clipping right of two bolts below anchor to FH belay.Probably 24 for the vertically challenged. Can use rings on adjacent route, or take Ss maillons.

Start at Tour de France, continue trending right on UBs to join Serial Driller. Extra UB has been added for 'high' traverse to chains, no need to clip second last bolt. And if confident, climbs well to clip the second UB as your 1st.

Starts from the 'Via Appia' ledge, a few metres right of 'Pleb's Rusticus'.

Arete with bouldery start just left of where access track meets the cliff.

The bolted arete/pillar R of Hot Gossip.

Note - the large nob hold above the 4th bolt has recently lobbed off, completely changing the top sequence however this move is still consistent with the grade of the rest of the climb.

Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Pretty solid V3,...apparently graded in according to international standards.

Climb White Powder to the 7th bolt. The best warmup for the Boneyard.

1. 33m 23 Follow Us up nose and arete to ledge

2. 15m 23 Continue up arete to another ledge

Technical contortions up the right arete of the small face above and to the right of Alchamy Wall. Tree belay.

Just about as good as drop-zone. Similar in style. The thin crack leading into the wavy slab-face immediately left of Drop Zone.

Thin corner then jug on the arete. Use of the slab to the left or finishing up the crack lowers the grade to about 21. DBB.

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

Clean wall climbing with a low technical crux and and a tough redpoint crux up high

Classic thin hand crack - a very sustained jamming test-piece. Take plenty of #1 camalots

Bolted face, visible when crossing small bridge along the track. Quite a gap between 2nd and 3rd bolt so consider taking a small cam or extend the 3rd draw if you’re unsure.

Starts up Fire in The Sky heads left on rings.

Very contrived, but has some great moves. Stick clip recommended. Climb the arete and thin face to the left of Lingham, avoiding the temptation to escape into the crack. Finish up the finger crack (good gear).

Technical and sustained face climb on the right

Technical wall climbing on lovely rock.

The furthest buttress on the left (looking from camp). Skipping the first pitch makes for a much friendlier introduction to Tyndalls climbing.

Approach via the slabs and gullies along the cliff edge. You’ll come to a deep, scrubby gully which is crossed via a tight trail through the scrub (should be marked by a cairn).

Working your way along, you’ll probably find yourself on the summit of the tallest buttress. Looking down, you’ll see a big cairn on the ledge below you - this is where the rap starts. Walk lookers left a little bit to scramble down to this ledge.

Raps: - short one onto DBB at arete - straight down onto grassy ledge (don’t follow the line of the route here). You should see the next anchors down a little bit, on a lower ledge climbers right of the grassy one. - from here, follow the route.

The raps can be done on a 70m (with stretch). Alternatively, there’s a double FH belay halfway down P3 that can facilitate shorter ropes.

1. 23m (23)

2. 27m (16)

3. 42m (19)

4. 17m (18)

5. 15m (16) - traverse and down climb a bit, aiming for the arete to climber’s right

6. 27m (21)

7. 14m (10)

The black face R of the Vamp corner, with x4 U bolts. Takes gear at the top and bottom. DBB

Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs.

There are two obvious lines up the front of the main buttress. This is the one on the right. Classy, technical climbing to the large ledge on the right, then step back into the line and finish up the stylish finger crack. The crux is protected by a very small wire, which will be very difficult for the vertically challenged to place. Abseil inspection is recommended if you value the integrity of your ankle bones.

Starts in a shallow groove about 5m R of the previous route. Some thought provoking and very nice climbing up the groove and face leads to a cruxy section going through the overlaps about a third of the way up, to gain a small ledge. There is a double bolt belay here for The Ruin Of The Cluan, but unnecessary for this route.

A great route. Another pumpy face climb with incut holds when you need them. DBB.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

Follow the natural line of holds from the middle of the main face to the arrete on the right. Good rest at half way and then move left to a large side pull and up on large holds to the top. 2 bolts on top, best clipped with extended draws. First ascended as a free solo.

Direct SDS to Sanguine. Start under roof, moving through slopers on the face. The finish is the same as Sanguine

Up the right side of slab, avoid using right hand lay-aways.

This steep little number climbs out of the cave about 6m left of the start of Crossing The Rubicon. Powerful start to an awkward rest. Then a technical traverse to the lip. Has fixed quickdraws on the route, but no loweroff on the anchors. Easiest to touch the anchors then jump!

Steep slab and overhang on left side of overhanging bowl on left side of Eldorado.

The thin crack to a dodgy looking block, then two bolts up the face above.

Varied granite mega pitch, right of RH Negetive. DBB.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

Sit start at right hand end of low rail, straight up. Watch the hollow sounding jugs at the top