Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
South East Hobart and surrounds Fruehauf | |||||
27 | Cadwallada
| 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Dildo Gaggin's
A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish. FA: T. Caldwell & S. Claus, 2012 | 15m | |||
27 | Jack Jumper
| 15m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Proctor's Road Quarry Lower Tier Back Wall | |||||
27 | Faceless
| 15m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes University Buttress | |||||
27 | ★★ Kwang Hwa Lantern
| 20m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | |||||
27 | ★★★ Shaolin
The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout. | 25m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes The Columns | |||||
28 | ★★★ The Brush Tail Extension
Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade. 3 15m 27, 8 bolts 4 15m 28, 8 bolts | 30m, 2, 16 | |||
27 R | ★★ Duckling
The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse. Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately. You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it. FA: Feb 2019 | 30m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Rockaway and Amphitheatre | |||||
27 | ★★★ Slap Dancer
Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb. Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish. FA: S. Edwards, 1997 | 10m, 5 | |||
27 | ★ The Fifth Elephant
The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle. Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems. Possibly 28. FA: A. Williams, 2001 | 25m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Mira Mira
The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity. All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height. FA: N. Perndt, 2013 | 35m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Lost World Area Lost World | |||||
28 | ★★ Gargamell
Bolted arête right of Lost Wanderer. Sustained and powerful. FA: Al Williams, 2004 | 25m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Lost World Area Big Bend Boulders Lost World Boulders The Pinnacles | |||||
V6 - 8 | ★★★ Restless Ambition
Sit start the front of the left hand pinnacle is a very hard looking 30 degree overhanging finger crack. Hard to grade V6-V9? FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2017 | 5m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Summit Boulders Fence area | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ V6
"Either a two star v6 or a one star v7." Sit start, up the face on unlikely looking holds which all seem to face the wrong direction. FA: Tommy Krauss, 10 Feb 2019 | 5m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Summit Boulders Snowflakes Area | |||||
V7 | ★ Kaiserschmarrn
Start on middle of big sloper, punch straight up into roof and top out as for Pancakes FA: Mike Hitchcock | 7m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Summit Boulders The Promised Land Spannend Boulder | |||||
V7 | Spannend
Sit start on obvious pinch and low horizontal crack. Head up and right. FA: Raul Schwarz, 2022 | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Summit Boulders The Promised Land Bad Dreams Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★ Bowling Alley
Stand start on far left of boulder and traverse right on slopers to finish up Rauls Bad Dreams FA: Riley Thurstans, 2023 | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington The Springs Symbiosis Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Three-horned bird
Start in back of cave on two flat sidepulls. Move up through small v-slot to a tricky mantle. Named after the three-horned bird orchid's growing on the adjacent boulder. FA: Alex Hartshorne | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Sphinx Rock Main face | |||||
28 | ★★ Scandal Savage
Climbs the line of U bolts up the face then through the large 7m roof to a dbb 2 meters around the lip of roof. Nice technical face, then a tough 4 move boulder problem getting into the roof jugs then crank through to the dbb. Back jump to clean, dont lower off the bolts over the lip as there is lots of rope drag. FA: adam bogus, 3 Apr 2016 | 15m, 10 | |||
27 | ★ Storm Trooper
Start as for Calm Before the Storm but go direct through the roof and to the chains of Ignition Sequence Start. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | ||||
28 | ★★ Calm Before The Storm
Located 2m R of Ignition Sequence Start. Scramble up the slab and crank through the bulge and then move R to lower from the chains of Rambo. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 15m | |||
28 | ★★ Lean Mean Fighting Machine
A desperate endeavour 10m R of Fear Factory. Crank through the bulging wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse R along the break and then up via a desperate boulder problem finish. FA: G. Phillips, 2004 | 15m | |||
28 | ★ Lean Mean Fighting Machine Direct
Direct start to Lean Mean Fighting Machine FA: G. Phillips, 2005 | 15m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Sphinx Rock Sphinx's Nose | |||||
V7 | ★ Hushed by an Angel
Long low traverse along the edge, under the nose and up and out the entrance. Named after the Philtrum. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2019 | 8m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Sphinx Rock Nerm's Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Blood Letting
Do the first move of Blood Stains then head right into the V0 via some powerful moves. FA: Joe Schwarz | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Mount Wellington Neika Blade Runner buttress | |||||
28 | ★★ Blade Runner
Starts up New C4's to the last bolt then traverses L along a break on tiny holds to a hard boulder problem finish. FA: G.Phillips, 2006 | 15m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds North West Bay River Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | |||||
27 | ★★ Hair of the Dog
| 15m | |||
27 | ★★ Mark Your Territory
The thin crack with featuring some technical footwork. Upgraded as it's shed some holds since the FA. | 15m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Gunner's Quoin South Face | |||||
27 | ★★ MDMA
| 35m, 6 | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Rocky Tom Castle Rock | |||||
27 | Merlin the Magician
| 8m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Rocky Tom The Managerie | |||||
V7 | ★★ Jack Jumper Arete
Arete behind the tree, from sitting start to hard mantle. A great problem, but the landing is a little dicey, bring a couple of mats. Follow the arete directly - a bit easier if you pike and move right to top out. | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Waverly Park Bouldering The Reservoir | |||||
V7 | ★★ Big Gay Al
Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right. | 5m | |||
V7 | Scorpion-Reservoir Dogs
Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold. | 4m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Taroona Beaches Mary's Grange Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★ Tai Chi
Stand start, left hand side pull and right crimp. High foot onto the good crimp. Soft if your tall, likely impossible if your short. FA: Michael Lehmann, 4 Jan 2022 | 5m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Closed Richmond | |||||
V7 | V6+
Same lh hold as mr jones climb the arete topout, watch the dab | 4m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Alexandra battery | |||||
V7 | ★ Fourteen
| ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Knocklofty Reserve Closed The Sand Mine | |||||
V6/7 | ★ Filipenduluos Extension
start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos | ||||
V6/7 | ★ Filipenduluos Extension - Open Project
start below "Overlooked" in the horizontal roof, then power into the cave through the roof, then finish up Filipenduluos | ||||
South East Hobart and surrounds Knocklofty Reserve The Arête | |||||
V7 | The Aeronautical Project
Blank face with committing moves at a reasonable height. FA: Marco McLean Set: M.C & Harry smith | 6m | |||
South East Hobart and surrounds Knocklofty Reserve Knockers Cave | |||||
V6/7 | ★ Hidden Treasure
Low shouldery moves from the start holds of “fat Finger” into the start of “members only”. Continue up members only to the top. | 4m | |||
South East Tasman Peninsula Fortescue Bay The Totem Pole | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Sorcerer
1
22
10m
2
25
15m
3
27
40m
A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.
Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche! FA: Garry Phillips & Chris Coppard, 2015 | 65m, 3, 9 | |||
27 | ★★★ The FreeD Route
1
25
2
26
3
27
4
17
The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell. | 70m, 4 | |||
South East Tasman Peninsula Fortescue Bay Sunrise Boulevard Starstruck Ledge | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Jurassic Park
This huge line takes the corner to the right of the tall blade of rock at water level. Technical face climbing leads to a high crux on the blade. Falling is not an option high on this line. Half boulder problem, half shallow water solo. FA: Oliver Miller, 2020 | 10m | |||
South East Tasman Peninsula Mount Brown The Paradiso | |||||
27 | ★★ Snooze and You Lose
| 35m, 14 | |||
27 | ★★★ Expendable Youth
| 27m | |||
28 | ★★ Expendable Amnesia
| 40m | |||
27 | ★★★ Total Recall
FA: Nick Hancock | 35m | |||
28 | ★★ Deja Vu
Holds broken at crux, harder than 28 now. | 35m | |||
South East Tasman Peninsula Mount Brown Mount Brown Main Face | |||||
27 | ★★★ Time Goes Bye P4 Right Hand
Garry’s hard RHV to pitch 4 if TGB. All bolts (10-12 on the pitch). Amazing climbing on excellent golden dolerite with some fantastic tricky sequences in the last half. FA: Garry Phillips | 12 | |||
South East Oatlands Top Dam Rumble Cave (Dry) | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Rumblathon
Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole. FA: T. Krauss, 2014 | 10m | |||
V7 | ★★ Bongo Rumble Linkup
Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle. | ||||
South East Oatlands Top Dam The Devil's Kitchen The Antichrist Area | |||||
V7 | ★★ V7
Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof. | 5m | |||
V7 - 9 | ★★ Anti-Problems
Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9. | ||||
V7 | ★ The Punisher
Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge. | ||||
South East Oatlands Top Dam The Devil's Kitchen Darkside Area | |||||
V7 | Marathon
Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree. | ||||
South East Oatlands Top Dam The Devil's Kitchen Right Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ unknown 2
SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5. | 6m | |||
South East Oatlands Top Dam The Fallen Block | |||||
V7 | Unkown
Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel | 3m | |||
South East Oatlands Top Dam Hidden Wall (Dry) Further right | |||||
V7 | ★★★ 3. Blood Lust (highball, sds)
Start at jugs under roof near left side of fallen block. Up and right via crimps to slopey ledge and the top. | ||||
V7 | ★ 4. Stitch in Time (highball, sds)
Sitstart at very big jugs then up via thin sharp edges to sloping ledge, high top out. | ||||
South East Oatlands Bottom Dam The Yellow Cave (Dry) | |||||
V7 | ★ Roundhouse
Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug. | 5m | |||
South East Oatlands Bottom Dam Funky Town Slab (Dry) | |||||
V7 | ★ V7
The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves | ||||
V7 | ★ The Raven
Stand start the double water groove just to the left of the cave arete. FA: H. Jackson, 2017 | 4m | |||
South East Oatlands Bottom Dam The Island The Island - Dam Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ El Jeffe
Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up. | ||||
South East Closed Ross Quoin The Ivory Tower | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Neverending Story
Start on the left side of the main face and climb a thin seam up, then right, to pass the small roof at the left end of the ledge that cuts across the cliff. Ascend a nice groove to increasingly desperate climbing on the lovely headwall, 17 U bolts. FA: Nick Hancock, Jan 2016 | 35m, 17 | |||
South East Closed Ross Quoin The Black Hole | |||||
27 | ★★ Zero Gravity
Start up Event Horizon but continue straight up through a very steep groove. From a cramped rest swing out madly over the hard final roof. 7 bolts to a lower off. FA: Ken Palmer, 2013 | 15m, 7 | |||
South East Handsome Crag Handsome Crag | |||||
28 | Melon Dreaming
| 15m | |||
South East Handsome Crag Main Cliff Boulders Excavator Boulder | |||||
V7 | V7
From low rail, ip middle of the steep face, finishing left. | ||||
South East Handsome Crag The Blockhouse Merci Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Merci Fire
Starting on the right hand pocket and left hand pinch. Up shallow crack without using arete. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2010 | 4m | |||
South East Handsome Crag The Stronghold The Balcony | |||||
V7 | V6/7
- | ||||
South East Handsome Crag The Stronghold Inchman South Face | |||||
V7 | ★★ Chain Gang
Start matched on incut diagonal hold a couple of metres left of Sledgehammer, up to top jugs. | 3m | |||
South East Handsome Crag The Weakhold J'Aimerais Bien Francais | |||||
V7 | ★★★ J'Aimerais Bien Francais
An ultra classic problem. Sit start on the obvious jug and head up the wall into the committing finishing moves. If you brake the cimps off at the start please put them somewhere safe. | ||||
South East Sand River BBQ Crag BBQ Bouldering | |||||
V7 | ★★ Difficult Pleasure
FA: Tommy Krauss | 3m | |||
South East Sand River Fire Wall | |||||
27 | ★ An apple a day keeps the Canadians away
Where the track meets the cliff, up the left side of the overhang. Starting left of the first bolt, come back right and blast up the short, thin arete. FA: Ryan Sklenica, 2019 | 10m | |||
27 | ★★ Flash Point
Climb gambit but at second last bolt head left via. a big move for a slightly easier finish. FA: Garry Phillips, 2017 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★ Gambit
Start as for firewall but head left and up the sustained headwall. FA: Garry Phillips, 2017 | 18m | |||
28 | ★★ Fawks
Adam Bogus's old line. Up hanging courner then traverse right and pull the roof. Chill on the ledge and pull a funky boulder to the chains. FA: Alex Hartshorne, Sep 2019 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Fawks Direct
Up Fawks to break but instead of busting the weird boulder, move right into Firestorm and pull some big moves up the hanging arete. Brilliant. FA: Alex Hartshorne, Sep 2019 | ||||
South East Sand River Colosseum Area The Colosseum | |||||
27 | ★★ Three Daggers
An excellent climb starting in the steep alcove just right of Caligula. Up this to the ledge then blast up the steep face past some small holds to a pumpy traverse right on slopers. Finish up the last section of Hercules. FA: Garry Phillips, May 2019 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★★ Juno
Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and following the break to finish up left hand side of the head wall. Classic power endurance route with a heart breaking last move. FA: Garry Phillips, 2017 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★ Jupiter
Climbs the crux of Fed to the Lions before breaking out left and going up the middle of the head wall. FA: garry phillips, 2017 | 18m | |||
South East Sand River Colosseum Area Colosseum Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Unnamed 1
Sit start, 4m right of the route Et tu, Brute. Out through roof to the lip . Then up to jug. FA: C Hylander | ||||
South East Sand River Colosseum Area Eldorado | |||||
27 | ★★★ Skywalker
Obvious line through the small roof at 7m, pull around this on the left and trend diagonally leftwards to the base of the roof. Through this and mantle into the headwall above. FA: garry phillips, 2017 | 18m, 13 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Tetragrammaton Buttress | |||||
28 R | ★★★ Fodiator
Continue up the steep arête of Exocet until it reaches the roof. Instead of traversing right, place some bomber gear and blast straight up just right of the arête. After some tricky moves, the difficulty eases and is protected by good RPs and wires. Move left and up the arête. FA: Jul 2017 | 47m, 2 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Alchemy Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Ockham's Razor
Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation. FA: Simon Bischoff, 2013 | 20m, 6 | |||
28 | ★ Exquisite Tenderness
| 15m, 5 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Travel Land | |||||
27 | Red Line
Start as for 'Tribute', then swing left past a few more bolts up the face. FA: Garry Phillips, 2003 | 10m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Little Bluestone Bay - Bouldering The Pharos | |||||
V7 | ★★ Blank Topic
Start on low right crimps, climb up the face to a high top out. Sharp. FA: Ryan Sklenica | ||||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs White Stack | |||||
27 | Kodak Tart
| 15m, 2 | |||
28 | Holiday In Bulimia
| 15m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★★ The Dark Side
| 30m, 4 | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress - Bouldering Four | |||||
V7 | 2. Campus
| ||||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Forever Young
Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors. The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent. FA: Simon Young, 2011 | 25m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★ Granite Planet
| 35m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Light Fingered Maddison Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★★ Animal Instincts Direct
Continue up the immaculate and crazy flared finger crack above and slightly left of Animal Instinct's hand crack. Radness | 15m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Coastal Cliffs Friendly Beaches | |||||
27 | ★★ Chaos Theory
| 20m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs The Gonk | |||||
27 | ★ Life of Brian
On the L side of the long wall L of Dumpster, climb via a desperate boulder problem start via 5 B to DBB. FA: Ken Palmer Mar 2013 | 15m | |||
East Freycinet National Park Hazards Cliffs Star Factory | |||||
28 | ★★★ Total Eclipse of the Heart
The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay. FFA: Alex Lewis, 2010 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★ Soft Option
Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2004 | 20m, 8 | |||
28 | ★★ Street Fighter
Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2003 | 20m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ Decafe
Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit. FFA: Garry Phillips, 2006 | 28m, 11 |