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Routes in Cathedral Gorge

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
1975
15 Misty Mountain Hop

On the slab blocked by the large orange roof. The slab is split by a crack that runs up to the L side of the roof.

  1. 20m The weakness in the middle of the slab, then move L above the tree fern and follow the crack to a stance below the overhang.

  2. 15m 15 Traverse over the guano stained block to the corner.

  3. 12m 15 Climb the overhanging crack keeping a sharp eye out for orcs.

  4. 46m Follow on the pleasant slab. Descent is to the L, to exit out the gorge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young, 1975

Trad 93m, 4 The Cathedral Range
1976
10 Back Chat

This route is at the top, or back of the crag. Something to fill in the day while putting off the walk back down. Start in the cave at the rear of the pinnacle immediately north of the Regrettably Lammentable pinnacle. Bridge out of the cave and climb the crack to the top. Abseil needed to get of the pinnacle.

FA: Nick Reeves, John Chapman, Iain Sedgman & Gretel Lamont, 1976

Trad 25m The Cathedral Range
11 Regrettable Lament

Not that easy to locate. Start at the R side of the 3rd buttress below a chimney.

  1. 43m Up the easy slab and move into and climb the chimney.

  2. 43m Up the rib.

  3. 44m To the top. Abseil or climb down the rear of the pinnacle.

FA: Nick Reeve & Gretel Lamont, 1976

Trad 130m The Cathedral Range
7 Pioneer Days

Start at the foot of the next buttress (the 2nd last buttress and the first without an overhanging start) Take an axe and a compass.

  1. 46m Up the buttress to a ledge.

  2. 46m Up the buttress to a tree.

  3. 14m Up to the top of the pinnacle. Not No obvious abseil points.

FA: Iain Sedgman & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 110m, 3 The Cathedral Range
10 Easy Street

Start on the R side of the 4th buttress 150m R of Misty Mountain Hop. This has an orange roof low down.

  1. 20m 3m up the narrow gully between the buttresses, then up the L wall to the overhang. Follow the crack, then step L up onto the large ledge.

  2. 30m Up the easy slab to a ledge.

  3. 48m Up and L onto the next slab. Keep R of the sword grass and climb the wall to the tree.

  4. Up the narrowing slab to the greasy ledge.

  5. Up to the top of the pinnacle. Abseil 15m down the back.

FA: Keith Egerton & Colleen Houston, 1976

Trad 170m, 5 The Cathedral Range
14 M2 Shadowmere

Lost in the middle of massive amounts of choss. Starts to the L of the obvious orange wall up on the L side of the Gorge. Up the rotten rock of the overhang, then traverse R wards to the bird stained nice where 2 sloping overhangs meet. Over the short overhang on nuts (will go free) with the last moves up the sloping ledge free.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1976

Aid 25m The Cathedral Range
1981
18 Touch And Go

Start from the large boulder on the ledge R of Shadowmere. Up the flakes for 20m to the digonal chimney break. Tend slightly R and up over the roof to the top, keeping in the original line.

FA: Robert Harrison & Wayne Maher, 1981

Trad 25m The Cathedral Range
1983
18 Wet, Dank And Dirty

There will be a line for this one. About halfway up the gorge on the R side below a sort of cave on the wall about 15m up.

  1. 8m Up to then follow the L leading diagonal crack until it is possible to go up to the ledge.

  2. The second pitch is so awful its best not spoken of ha ha.

FA: Richard Smith & Eric Jones, 1983

Trad 8m, 2 The Cathedral Range

Showing all 8 routes.

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