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Routes as trad in The Turntable Car-park Area

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Showing all 78 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
24 Drugs Over London

Excellent, sustained and steep for the You Yangs. Has been re-bolted with 2 FH. 2 carrot bolts on top as anchor and easy walk off to the left.

FA: Mike Law

Mixed trad 13m, 2 The You Yangs
14 Spearhead
Mixed trad 15m, 1 The You Yangs
20 Stone the Crows

Obvious finger crack in the middle of the wall right on the side of the walking track.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter & Mikl Law, 1981

Trad 12m The You Yangs
10 Fig Leaf

The obvious crack 6mt left of the gully at the right hand end of the cliff. Follow the crack to half way, then step left and follow the crack to the V-corner to finish.

Trad 26m The You Yangs
13 Asseggai
Mixed trad 15m, 1 The You Yangs
5 Tugboat Annie
Trad 17m The You Yangs
8 Jaws in 3D
Trad 14m The You Yangs
13 Andy Pandy

Submit yourself to part of the chimney as for Furnace, then blast out right onto the slab passing a BR and flakes to the top. DBB.

FA: Philip Armstrong & John Bohills, 1985

Mixed trad 19m, 1 The You Yangs
18 Crack Attack

Left leaning crack.

Trad 10m The You Yangs
14 Two BA

2mts left of Fig Leaf, straight up the slab on good edges and crimps past 2 carrot bolts. Finish as for Fig Leaf

Mixed trad 25m, 2 The You Yangs
13 Trackside Traverse

Obvious rising traverse across the dyke, right next to the walking track. Start as for Stone the Crows.

FA: Mikl Law, 1981

Trad 11m The You Yangs
10 Two Lizards
Trad 23m The You Yangs
20 Malice in Trundleland

5mts left of Fig Lleaf, up the black water-streak past 2 spaced carrot bolts, then head left into the groove to finish up the short chimney.

Mixed trad 23m, 2 The You Yangs
11 Fig Leaf Direct

Start up Fig Leaf crack until it finishes, then continue straight up the slab past the second bolt on Ask Uncle Max.

Mixed trad 24m, 1 The You Yangs
17 Hide and Seek

Great line in the middle of the overlap, leading to obvious offwidth, which can be tough for the grade if you're new to the technique.

Trad 9m The You Yangs
14 Traverse of the Gonzos
Trad 27m The You Yangs
18 Piece of the Action

FA: Peter Watson, Philip Armstrong, Roger Murphy, Iain Sedgman & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Trad 17m The You Yangs
12 Ask Uncle Max

The line up the centre of the buttress located between Blue Eyes and Fig Leaf. 2 carrot bolts.

Mixed trad 24m, 2 The You Yangs
10 Spoon Fed

Left leading flake crack at left end of gully then slab

FA: Mark Walters, 1984

Trad 11m The You Yangs
10 Blue Eyes

3mts right of Fig Leaf, follow the thin seam to the dishes then slight leftwards up the rounded arete past the second bolt on Ask Uncle Max

Mixed trad 24m, 1 The You Yangs
20 The Orange Wall

FA: Jerry Maddox, 1978

Mixed trad 19m, 2 The You Yangs
18 Bubble Ninja

Left hand line of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly right on thin edges past carrot. Carrot has a large head and many bolt-plates may not fit.

Mixed trad 7m, 1 The You Yangs
23 Slip, Slop, Slap

An absorbing with sustained climbing on tiny edges. Start off small boulders on right hand arete of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly leftwards past a BR and FH.

Mixed trad 10m, 2 The You Yangs
23 Eve

Leftwards trending finger crack on steep, south face of pinnacle, approx 30 left of Eastern Walking Track (facing north), where Track turns from east-west to north-south, ~200m from Saddle car park area.

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill, 1969

FFA: Mikl Law, 1981

Trad 10m The You Yangs
14 Hello Sailor

Sort of a direct variant to Tugboat Annie. From the left hand end of the face at the base of the low overlap, climb straight up to join the final stages of Tugboat Annie. There is no protection until Tugboat Annie’s flake corner is reached.

FA: Max Keating, Paul Adair & Dougal Watson, 1993

Trad 14m The You Yangs
19 Sole Twister

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

FFA: Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 7m The You Yangs
19 Lynch Mob

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

Trad 11m The You Yangs
15 Bill and Ben

The obvious traverse down the right end of Wave wall to the FH (original peg used by many in situ immediately below this). Up the orange water streak above to DRBB.

Anchor located ~1.5m below and right of the narrow strip of vegetation. Either lower /rap or scramble carefully up then left to escape.

DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

New anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Mixed trad 29m, 1 The You Yangs
16 Ripping Yarns

From the step across to the Upper Tier ledge, a faint crack heads up to a scoop level with the Wasteland ledge. 2 old BR lead the way up left into the orange water streak immediately right of the Bill and Ben finish. DBB as per that climb.

Mixed trad 34m, 2 The You Yangs
17 Alex in Disneyland

Steep climbing on small edges. Starts off boulders !m left of RH arete of Alex in Disneyland Slab. Up and slightly R past 2 BRs then L to a high vertical seam leading to the top.

Trad 10m The You Yangs
15 Monotony

Start below the lowest BR on the 'Boring Slab'. Up past 2 more BRs on steepening ground past horizontal seam to top.

Mixed trad 18m, 3 The You Yangs
20 Gallows Humour Direct Start

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Trad 10m The You Yangs
16 Burnt Offering

FA: Mike Wust & Russel Crowe, 1985

Trad 31m The You Yangs
22 The Slot Machine

Pocketed crack.

FFA: Mark Walters & Angela Emerson, 1985

Trad 6m The You Yangs
14 Arson

Scramble up to the Wasteland ledge. Originally took the short crack till its end and then traversing 2m left and up the Wasteland water streak at grade 13. Straightened up, now taking the water streak directly above the short crack. 4 FH to Wasteland DRBB.

Retro'ed with permission from the FA 01/24.

Mixed trad 44m, 4 The You Yangs
16 Don't Panic, It's Organic

Start just left of centre of the 'Boring Slab.' No pro, solo. Committing friction slabbing.

Trad 16m The You Yangs
14 CFA

FA: Philip Armstrong, 1985

Trad 20m The You Yangs
4 Black-handed

Start under boulders 15m right of Tewkesbury and move up left under them then follow the easiest path up the slab.

FA: Unknown

Trad 31m The You Yangs
15 Mob Rule

Start same as Lynch Mob, then up center of face. 2 BR

Trad 10m The You Yangs
17 Where's the Rip-cord?
Trad 7m The You Yangs
7 Furnace

Thrutch your way up the chimney at the back of the short, narrow gully, at the left hand end of the wall.

FA: Philip Armstring, Albert Alcanha & Chris Armstrong, 1985

Trad 21m The You Yangs
8 Tarred and Feathered

Chimney

Trad 18m The You Yangs
10 Slightly Singed

FA: Unknown

Trad 31m The You Yangs
8 Slack Attack

Climb the rising seam running from right to left across the face until it finishes then head straight up the slab to large block.

Trad 18m The You Yangs
16 Reverse of the Gonzos
Trad 26m The You Yangs
21 You Charmer, Mrs West

Start as for Slip Slop Slap to its first BR , Then step R and up to a BR-(may need a wire) and straight up to jugs.

Mixed trad 9m, 2 The You Yangs
14 Tadpole

FA: Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 10m The You Yangs
15 Tyburn Tree

A couple of m left of Hang 'em High. 1 BR

Trad 8m The You Yangs
14 Traverse of the Gonzos Direct
Trad 16m The You Yangs
6 Memorabilia

FA: Barry Russel, 1985

Trad 10m The You Yangs
20 Dead Budgies Don't Believe in Foreplay
Trad 10m The You Yangs
25 Primal Scream

Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab.

Mixed trad 15m, 2 The You Yangs
13 Budgie Has Landed
Trad 10m The You Yangs
8 Jonathan Livingstone Budgie
Trad 7m The You Yangs
9 I'll Lead

R end of slab, 3m R of large blocks, crack L to slabs

FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 1987

Trad 15m The You Yangs
8 Grand Illusions

FA: Barry Russel, 1985

Trad 10m The You Yangs
9 Playing Truant

FA: Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 16m The You Yangs
17 Lobotomy

3m R of Foot Fetish. Past undercling (cam), clip BR continue up diagonal crack (cam) to Foot Fetish top BR

FA: Ken Wheat & Ken James, 1999

Mixed trad 11m, 2 The You Yangs
16 The Let-down

On right hand side of the Alex In Disneyland slab is a narrow chimney and a small, pointed pinnacle beyond. On the left hand side of the downhill face of this pinnacle is a left leading crack, 10m right of Alex in Dinseyland - this is "The Let Down 3 1/2 Bodylengths"

Trad 11m The You Yangs
16/17 Crack Up

Seam and crack above. Jaming not really required

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Trad 9m The You Yangs
26 Slow Plunge

The slick and rounded crack with a very thin start.

FA: Mikl Law, 1982

Trad 15m The You Yangs
11 Bellvuesses

A few m right of A Bit To The Right is a BR. Start a few m right of this and onto the diagonal ramp to the BR. Mossy slab above.

Mixed trad 38m, 1 The You Yangs
16 Turd Burglar

Overhanging deep crack/off width through cave from The Slot Machine.

Trad 8m The You Yangs
21 Youthful Prodigy
Trad 18m The You Yangs
12 Skinhead

FA: Mark Walters, 1985

Trad 9m The You Yangs
8 The Occasional Mosquito

Starts at the base of the diagonal ramp starting at the far right end of the ledge. Takes the ramp clipping the bolt on Bellvuesses and A Bit To The Right and finishing up the later.

Mixed trad 45m, 4 The You Yangs
17 Nervous Twitch

4m R of Crack Up and 1m Left of Oral Fixation. Trad in horizontal then 2 BR.

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Mixed trad 9m, 2 The You Yangs
15 Oral Fixation

1m R of Nervous Twitch, 1m L of right arete. Up thin crack.

FA: Ken James & Ken Wheat, 1999

Trad 9m The You Yangs
12 Still in the Pipeline
Trad 7m The You Yangs
9 C&S pikers variant

Pikers variant to Crack and slab. Up the initial crack, step right and up the crack.

FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 30 Jan 2021

Trad 8m The You Yangs
16 Pretty Green But We Soaked in it

Arete on left hand end of block. Up to BR and horizontal break, stepping slightly right to finish up crack in cap-stone.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 10m, 1 The You Yangs
17 Chel

As for PGBWSII, traversing right to finish.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 11m, 1 The You Yangs
17 My Girldle is Killing Me

Traverse under cap-stone in either direction.

FA: Unknown

Trad 12m The You Yangs
15 Perverse Traverse

Traverse along undercling break from Anally Retentive to Labotomy. Finish along overlap.

Trad 17m The You Yangs
18 Track Crack

Start far last at bottom of crack, hand traverse all the way to the end of horizontal crack. Escapable towards the end. Must a have been climbed before, too obvious, right on the track not to have been. Will be a great highball boulder problem.

FA: Dick Lodge, 14 Sep 2020

Trad 8m The You Yangs
22 Concentrated Bristles
Mixed trad 14m, 2 The You Yangs
13 Crack and slab

On the block to the R (looking up) of Pretty Green Boulder. Up the crack and slab above.

FFA: Mitch Lindbeck, 30 Jan 2021

Trad 7m The You Yangs
15 Morn

Crack on the opposite side of the Eve block.

FA: Mitch Lindbeck, 30 Jan 2021

Trad 7m The You Yangs

Showing all 78 routes.

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