Ascents in The You Yangs having Beta

Sandbagged

Felt absolutely desperate.

Tried it in new shoes, Katanas are definitely the shoe of choice here

Foot blew out just above the first draw, will probably get it clean on the next session

Last route of the day. Feet were so sore.

Took me an hour to work this one out. Great climb, very well protected.

Not wanting to face hospitalisation or worse, but still wanting to tackle this face, used a clipper to clip the 2nd bolt of DOE then finshed at its 3rd bolt. Probably about 18.

All sport. Finished at the 3rd bolt, couldn't face another climb up the central crack.

Toes on fire

Used my first RP's. Struggled for way too long trying to place a '1' :')

Somewhat committing start, then enjoyable moves with the reach-around crack

Nice crack!

Classic You Yangs style, first 6 meters relying on a questionable 0.75 cam.

Basically no gear until the first half. Enjoyable top out.

Nastier is a valid description

I would not attempt this climb on lead again. What the hell is up with the traverse to the right? The rope runs over a sharp edge below you, there seem to be no obvious holds, and the horizontal crack is actually a fused seam that you can't protect. I went up it thinking I might try the 21, but I wasn't even willing to do the 17. What it appears you need to do is mono crimp/pinch a crystal and mantle the upper slab with a high foot, but there's no way I am doing that with a rope severing flake threatening me below and no other protection.

Pretty bouldery climb. Felt a bit like a tall V5. The first bolt is very low, so you might want to stick clip the second bolt as it's a bit of a risky sequence otherwise.

Second go. I found the elusive hold just above the first bolt right away this time, climbed a bit further to the left at the top than before, and sent it. Much more gracefully and in control, a lot less scared with the slightly different beta.

Terrifying as an onsight attempt. I completely froze near the third bolt after struggling to find holds, just staring blankly at the rock, feeling scared and slowly peeling off, but I snapped out of it. Forced myself to look around again, found a hold I missed, and topped out. Annoyingly, my slips were all just after clipping the first bolt, in the easier part, because I didn't see a good crimp above me. I didn't use a stick clip, placed a black totem and a yellow totem in the crack at the start instead.

Great little slab. Scary. Harder at the start

Short and hard. Screwed up the beta and pumped out one move from the jug

Accidentally logged the lead. But I actually just top rope it..super hard for me but also fun

Dang so hard but super fan. Super crimpy that all my fingers were swollen after. Anyhow, it so fun. I think impossible for me to lead climb hahaha..I need to practice more.

Quite easy on a top rope 😁

Awesomeness 😍

Hard on the part but after the crux it was relatively easy

Very crimpy but great route

Took a few attempts to get off the ground, thin moves, need to be precise with footwork

Best climb of the day, ugly off-width which has a nice fight to the top. Just different and nice compared to the crappy face climbing which is dominant in you yangs.

Hardly call this a sport route when theres a 10m run out after the 2nd bolt.

Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!

A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry

The start is nails and much harder than the rest - thumb pressing a crystal is not 19... Climbed 2nd shot and without the tree. Probably 19 if you bridge off that to start.

Enjoyable climbing.

Repeat, this time with the bolts.

Big fun ! some bolts are a little bit loose

Very hard to start directly from the ground, but easier using the platform on the left side.

Fun time, second hanger it's little bit loose.

Best route here on a warm day. Couldn't work out the transition to the R crack at the top on today's 2 attempts so bridged past off the back wall.

Wigged out and grabbed the third bolt instead of getting a draw on it from an uncomfortable stance.

Repeat. Moves past the first bolt are thin at 16.