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Gravel Pit Tor Area

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Description

Gravel Pit Tor is a beautiful stand alone monolith that dominates its immediate surroundings. This tor offers some of the best climbs in the You Yangs.

Access issues inherited from The You Yangs

National Park. Parks Vic website (Oct 2014) says "[...] Bookings are required for groups. Individuals are not required to book, but should check with the Park Office to enquire about the availability of sites. [...]"

Approach

Park at the clearly marked parking lot for the Gravel Pit Tor along the Great Circle Drive. Follow the marked climbers trail up.

Ethic

Mixed climbing with trad and some sports options, as well as bouldering. Recent replacement of anchors of the many old bash carrots has made this area much safer. A small rack of cams and wires will suffice on the mixed routes.

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Routes

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Grade Route

1m left of Opossum. 1st ascent Steve Monks Solo.

FA: Steve Monks, 1976

Prominent corner off width at the far left end of Question of Ethics wall.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Russ Crow & Hugh Hardwick, 1987

* Sustained & enjoyable. One of the best face routes in the YY. Start 4 meters right of 'Oppossum' to wander up the middle of the face on solid tint edges. Rebolted May 2022.

Set: Graham Sanders, Steve Toal & Steve Howden, 1981

Start just right of Question of Ethics moving R on the sloping ramp to a FH. Follow the face just L of the arete past 3 more FH's. Can be started from directly below the first FH for a slightly more challenging start.

Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

Finger tearing and technical. Just right & around the corner of Mean Streak. Not as bold as it once was as it was rebolted in 2003 with FA permission.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Warning Fixed Gear: Fixed perma-draw

May be harder now than the FA. The spectacular steep arete L of Orpheus. Up the arete past 2 FHs, then hard moves up and R to jug and FH. Up the R face into the cave then L to the arete. Continue up the arete and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted with permission of the FA May 2022.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Closed project, please stay off.

Still an stout aid route despite lots of free attempts. Up the crack in the overhung wall R of the arete with a FH above and below left from the free attempts. Go L along the slopy horizontal crack then up the top WIDE crack.

FA: David Lia & Howard Wraight, 1977

Steep and powerful. Start on the boulders R of Orpheus and follow the 3 FHs up and L wards to the slopey horizontal. Undercling L to the flake and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted July 2022.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams

FA: Steve Howden & Steve Toal, 1981

Scramble up the boulders, and step out R onto the arete follow this and the slab to the top. Double ring bolt anchor on top. Rebolted May 2022.

FA: Martin Lama & Guther Zippel, 1991

Start on the face, just R of the arete of Skid Row. First bolt can be clipped from the boulder on the R. Rebolted - July 2022. Has double ring bolt anchor on top.

FA: Martin Lama

The R hand route from the terrace at the top of Silver Knight. 3 FHs and DRB lower off at top Rebolted Jan 21.

FA: Chris Yeomans & Andrew Lindblade

Good moves with good natural protection.

FA: Peter Lindorff & John McMahon, 1971

FFA: Joe Verbaken, David Lia, Peter Megens, Steve Pawley, Cathy Seccombe & Eileen O'Meagher, 1975

Good climbing up the rounded R arete of Silver Knight Buttress. Some reckon it's a soft tick. Up the sickle-shaped crack to the arete, then blast up on tiny nubbins past a couple of thin diagonal dykes and a horizontal break to good jugs. Three FHs to Trad Anchor as for Silver Knight.

3 FHs. Left of The Chuchu. From the second bolt, powerful span into the crack to the right and up this. Optional wires for the top section and belay.

FA: Martin Lama, 1992

Traverses the obvious horizontal across the right buttress starting from the top of the Silver Knight block.

The chimney R of Silver Knight, finish up the short crack on the R wall.

FA: David Lia, 1975

Steep and intense. Start 1m R of the base of the chimney (same as for The Razors Edge) Hard up to the 1st RB, and then slightly L past a 2nd RB before finishing up the top crack. Rebolted July 2022

FA: Andrew Lindblade, 1992

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022

FA: Martin Lama

Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors.

FA: Jimmy Stephens, 24 Jan 2023

Just R of Razor's Edge (left side of arete; no gear) to roof crack, finish up past 2 x RBs on TRE.

Start on the R side of the arete 3-4m R of The Shining. Up the arete and slightly R on the slab and up to the break where the dyke is. Traverse R and finish up Asylum for the Insane.

FA: Matt Brooks & TracyMartens, 25 May 2022

Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB.

Crimpy edges to start past 3 bolts, followed by easy ground through a jam crack.

Quite a nice climb now with the addition of a fixed hanger down lower. Up the face on small edges in the pale water streak, past 2 Fixed Hangers. Finish up the jam crack. Double ring bolt belay at top.

Takes the rounded arete at the R side of the Tor. Start *m R of Asylum for the Insane (and shares its final crack). Step across L onto a narrow ledge and up to a FH. Then up the easier terrain (FH) before stepping L to the final crack of AFTI.

FA: Peter Megens, David Lia & Jos Verbaken, 1975

A fun direct finish to Blue Skys from Grey. May have been toproped previously - almost a sport route. 1 x Med/Large Cam required for the break.

Climb Blue Sky’s from Grey and then continue directly over the overlap (medium cams) via a thin move or two and straight up the top wall past 2FHs.

FA: Nick Murphy & Matt Brooks, 21 May 2022

Climb the face 2m R of Blue Skies from Grey passing 2FHs to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Step R over this then move slightly L and straight up the face/arete L of the 2FHs. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

FA: Pete Stebbins, 1991

Climb the short crack (small cam) 4m R of Blue Skies from Grey and then the face (FH) to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Over this stepping slightly R past a FH and straight up the thin face past another FH. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Dave Gairns & Keiran Loughran, 1981

The original way the girdle was done and easier than Doctor Joy as it misses the final R hand section of Wicked Wanda. Up Wicked Wanda to the traverse line then L wards and further L wards to the top of the Silver Knight Block.

FA: Steve Toal, Steve Howden & Graham Sanders, 1981

Often wet. Start below the hanging block 3m R of No Question. Take the short Corner up the L side of the block, then R along the flake to a thin L leading seam. Up this, the crux.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1981

Start as for Wicked Wanda up the short flake corner and step R onto the slab to reach the start of the WW flake. Stay L here directly up the slab.

From the back of Gravel Pit Tor a large block can be seen about 50m to the East.

Just R of the arete facing Gravel Pit Tor is a very thin crack. Follow this up the face.

FA: Martin Lama, 1990

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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