Routes in The You Yangs

Run out to the 1st carrot bolt (typical YY style).

Starts right of the tree and follows some lighter granite passing crystal dikes and an easy stance.

Up steepining section of the wall in front of tree through broken flakes.

Up to RB and straight up three BR. Top to DRBB. (For top-rope access, this is the set of anchors near the big scoop in which water pools, with a dyke running next to it.)

Start off a granite platform below a thick crystal dike.

Left of "water-runnel". Looks like no gear.

Right of "water-runnel'. Its a long way to the 1st bolt but on solid holds.

1m right of EMW. Nice moves. Enjoyable climb. Shares second bolt of BotBW?

Up past bucket 2m right of Spandau. Two carrot bolts. Very high to the 1st bolt on small holds. Tricky to reach the 1st carrot if your short.

One Ringbolt + 2 FH. Tricky second bolt clip - take care.

2m right of BSHC. Two carrot bolts.

Long traverse. Start as for CC, then traverse R to finish up KC. Six carrots.

Hard start. Only seems to have one bolt. Either climb R into Iron Curtain, or L into CC.

Two carrot bolts.

Same crux, but finish R up FH instead.

2m right of IC. Two carrots.

3m right of ET. Two carrots.

Up past hole 2m right of Raisa. Two carrots.

2m right of VW.Two carrots.

Starting on the right side of the blunt arête, climb up on small incut holds.

A novelty. Run up the wide water-washed groove, and mantel before you slide back down.

Easy low angle slab.

Left end of the main face. Up to a side pull and slap for the top. Can sit start for extra value.

Up flakes at right end of main face.

Starts off at a sidepull and traverse left, and layback to a crimp

2m right of Sizzling Sausages. Start at horizontal edge at bottom of vertical flake. Up to left end of scoop and up right side of arete.

Traverse left around the boulder from Easy Peasy. Nasty landing

As for Sketchy Traverse, but continue left and top out above bush. Don't Fall.

Arete and face left of Seam from Afar. Standing start L hand crystals on the arete, R on the crimp both around head height. No jumping from the ground. Pull on and up to the dyke at the lip following this above.

On the R side (facing uphill) of the boulder 8m right of Seam of the Crime. Sit start on undercling pinch & left side pull, up toward summit jug. Exit R.

A few metres right of Seam From Afar at the steepest part of the boulder. Stand start at crimp above the lip of overhang and mantle up.

Sit start with left hand undercling pinch and climb face using double aretes.

Obvious direct finish to Seam of the Crime. SDS as for that problem to the right end of the horizontal. Turn it into an undercling for the left, paste the feet up high and slap up with the right.

Sit start with RH on sloper and LH on crimp rail, slap RH to arete and gain giant seam to slightly desperate top out.

Same start as Seam of the Crime. Once you have gained the seam, traverse to the left to easy top out with jugs

Horrendous fist jam start to nice lay backing. Barely worth the effort really.

Traverse between Seamed Alright and Inseam Pocket with a step-through crux. Stand start near Seamed Alright: R foot on ledge just to the left of the crack, R hand on the crack where it starts to change angle from vertical. Left hand above R, left foot smear.

Use the crack and then seams for your hands, and little chips for your feet. Climb goes left until you hit the small pocket half way up the boulder, then go straight up to the left of the 2nd seam (just left of the line marked for the Inseam Pocket route).

It's a low boulder, so the top is out until you've reached the final pocket and are going up!

(Changed registered grade. It might be harder than other V2s in the area, but calling it a V3 is an injustice to V3s).

Sit start matched on pocket. Pull right to undercling, then up.

Nice easy line on left of boulder 15m left from Seamed Alright. Sit start, up to flakes.

Few desperate moves, just left of the middle seam.

Hard crimping up RHS of boulder to horizontal seam, then up.

Sit start down in void with Wattle tree growing out of it. Nice, steep arete climbing with cracks

Climb crack to rear of Wattle they Climb Next

Steep boulder to the left of the group. Not sure if it goes, get on it!

Up the path from the rest of the described boulders a cluster of rocks is notable for the polished dihedral facing south. Climb it.

Start in scoop directly below horizontal seam. Use small foot chips and smearing to gain seam and then LH & RH crimps.

Begin with both feat on obvious good rail within different coloured strip. High RF to start then find feat and crimps to top out slightly left of start.

Start as for Nacho Cheese, traverse right to start of Cheese Supreme, use high RF and juggy side pull on different coloured strip to top out.

Straight up the middle of the eastern face of the Dorito Boulder. Slab to glory!

On eastern face of boulder. Up ramp to left arete, follow the arete all the way to the top. Slab it up!

Just left of arete on left end of wall. 2m right is easier

3m R of Foot Fetish. Past undercling (cam), clip BR continue up diagonal crack (cam) to Foot Fetish top BR

Seam and crack above. Jaming not really required

4m R of Crack Up and 1m Left of Oral Fixation. Trad in horizontal then 2 BR.

1m R of Nervous Twitch, 1m L of right arete. Up thin crack.

Around right side arete, 3m R of Oral Fixation. BR

Traverse along undercling break from Anally Retentive to Labotomy. Finish along overlap.

Stand start on a pocket and crimp, up to a crimp, jug and then top out.

Stand start between Sendero and Hacer up on flakes and crimps to an awkward top out

Stand start with an easy foothold, up along the crack to an easy pinch for the top out.

Crack around the back of the boulder, perfect width for finger jamming. Stand start under the overhang, then up the crack and over the top, careful with the rocks underneath, makes a precarious landing.

Start as for Track Crack, but after getting established on face, go straight up and mantle to top.

Start far last at bottom of crack, hand traverse all the way to the end of horizontal crack. Escapable towards the end. Must a have been climbed before, too obvious, right on the track not to have been. Will be a great highball boulder problem.

Left leading flake crack at left end of gully then slab

Sort of a direct variant to Tugboat Annie. From the left hand end of the face at the base of the low overlap, climb straight up to join the final stages of Tugboat Annie. There is no protection until Tugboat Annie’s flake corner is reached.

Takes the left side of the slab. 1FH and 3 RB

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Middle of the slab. 2 FH, 2 RB to one more FH.

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

First high RB then up left via 1 FH, 2 RB and one more FH.

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Right side of the slab with 3 RB.

Replaced the carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

The 2 BR were hammered flat around the time climbing was banned at The Look-out.

This route climbs the pinnacle mentioned in the access description that is used to locate Rockwell Road Pinnacles from the track. Climb the south-east arete facing the western walking track. Be careful down climbing.

Pocketed crack.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

Overhanging deep crack/off width through cave from The Slot Machine.

A couple of m left of Hang 'em High. 1 BR

Seam on block opposite Turd Bulglar. 1 FH

3m R of Arete R of Hang 'em High. 3 BR

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Arete to R of Kangaroo Court and on L of Tarred and Feathered. 2 BR

Chimney

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

Start same as Lynch Mob, then up center of face. 2 BR

As for Mob Rule, but traverse R under 1st BR and the up to high BR on R.

Placing this route here until I can pin down it's exact location. It's actually between The Lookout and Rockwell Rd Pinnacles, close to where the Western Walking track swings hard right (when walking from Lookout to Pinnacles). Climb is on the left side of track on a downhill face, which has a distinct grey blob/feature in the middle of it.

On left hand end of wall taking line straight up to diagonal break passing 1BR.

2m R of Caught Redhanded, up to break, BR, seam, BR