Routes in Magnetic Island

Start on undercling 1m left of JM and step up the ramp before setting up for launch to pocket jug just shy of the top. Mantle finish. Might be a touch harder if you're short.

The prominent line up jugs and the crack in central to the boulder. Start standing on the boulder at the base of the overhang.

Farther down Picnic Bay is a giant boulder that looks like a turtle head sitting on top of other boulders. Start matched on the crack with feet to the right, then proceed to (desperately) mantle the shelf above the crack until you're able to fully stand on the shelf then top it out. You'll want 3 spotters, because if you fall to the right, it's pretty much death on the breakers.

Climb up the edge of the boulder.

Easy climb up. Also the down climb if you top out.

A terrifying V8 somewhere in the bay.

Up the obvious crack to traverse right to mantle. Tree belay.

Up the left leaning crack to join in with Oxygen Cascade at traverse. Tree belay.

The left leaning crack to join in at the mantle on Oxygen Cascade. Tree belay.

Stand start and mantle onto sloppy boulder.

Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide.

Start on underclings on hanging boulder then move up using boulders to the sides.

Description and grade may need to be edited as this was mostly created as a place holder for the guide.

Stand start on arete. Move straight up with some balancy moves for a committing top.

Stand start on the far right hand arete using hold around corner and hold in seam. Move left along seam and then up at first vertical break.

Slightly contrived but fun. Start as for TTGCW, except head straight up to finish mantling lip before the 1st obvious vertical break.

Start as for TTGCW but continue left along the rail to finish up the left hand arete. Mega classic on good rock!

Stand-start on breast like feature, head straight up.

Start matched on obvious rail, head straight right then up.

Roof off width, prepare to be sick. Sit start at the back of the little cave.

Walk towards the backpackers until it is visible, the route is in the middle of a wall facing the resort, and follows the obvious flake that stops at half height.

From the back of the cave, crimp and chimney traverse the break on the left wall. Comitting move around corner to LH jug and solid foot, transfer to RH rib, up and mantle out.

Campus start up the rib and mantle out

Stand start at the pancake flake crimp edge and out as for president of funk. Adding this because I tore my meniscus battling for an onsight of PoF, only to find it was a sit start.

Follow the LHS crack to the inner corner of the roof, jam or crimp your way out and mantle out left.

Arete starting on the seasideish. Grade may be wrong.

Starting on the hillside face and up the arete. Don't know the name. Grade may be wrong.

Up laybacks to jugs on loose granite. No good foot holds.

A harder line the traverses the crackli

This is one of the original lines put up by Zimmerman. Original line used just the right layback seam, but would effectively make it an eliminate. the first move to the high layback puts you body in a position to use a compression move off of Reverie, then climbing both seams to the blank section. The Crux is from here to the top as originally described, But is considerably easier than the original grade of V9. Regardless, this is of equal quality to Reverie and is a must do. (Original description = Just to the R of "Highball #1" is a V9, with the crux at the top (start at the break and go up via lay offs to a thin section).)

The name describes the first attempt at the climb where a climber was not spotted properly and ended up injured

Open Project. Crimp and pinch up to a bad sloper and mantle.

Match start on under cling near the start of scroggin.

Avoid using the holds of Thrice for the proper tick.

On the side opposite the water, follow easy holds

Opposite side of boulder to 'Walk the line', there is a nice crack for your hands to start

A V8 to the R of "American Invasion #1", a sit start off the pockets into the orange scoop.

About 25m further off the beach from "American Invasion #2" is a high cracked arête, and has a sloping slab to land on.

Jump and Mantle...I think this was the V6.

Started on right side and traversed left. Standing start

Standing start. The route goes straight up and over without using the groove on the right which is part of Mic drop. Great undercling

Standing start. Goes up the groove without using the holds of Master slave.

match start on the undercling.

Slab climb. Good feet for the start, the crux is up high - stick those feet.

Up the runnel to the sidepull and slopey topout.

Scary and feeling exposed with rock. Starts of with a layback then into a pinch. Optional sit start doesnt change grade. Also works as a chimney climb. Mantling is the hard part over a boss to the left

Open project. Same as Flaker, but instead of up left and mantling. Continue around up right.

Open Project. Scary and feeling exposed with rock below. Undercling up to a left sloper and right pinch then undercling to a fist jam crack climb.

"The Beast In The Boulder" to cave.

To the L of the main block is a clean leaning layback corner that splits into two cracks on the top wall. Jase provided excellent entertainment on 2nd. #7 Hex goes in well.

As good as it sounds. The broken corner R of NWJ.

The diagonal offset fistcrack. It's not a warmup and it's not fun. I’m sorry about this climb.

Follow the crack, sounds easy enough... Lots of fuss to get not very far. The crack all the way to Preapologised, finishing up it. Gets all day shade.

The striking hand crack on the LHS of the block, going R to the jugs as soon as you can. #7 Hex goes in well.

Up the L arete and R onto the slab. Up the flake. A little loose and not well protected.

Start just L of original climb. Desperate thin moves up to jugs, then traverse R to join original climb, "Why Aren't They Naked".

Up the nice thin crack up the middle of the front face to the horizontal (opposing wires), R and mantel. Up the corner back L.

Starting on the arete. Horizontal cracks at start for small gear.

Up corner to ramp and continue up easier ground. Very crumbly on the face.

Up crack to zig back left. Finish up flake.

Up weakness to finish up crack.

Brudlly good. On the RHS of the block. Starts up the lowest finger crack, up to the horizontal, a move R and up the off finger crack. Finish L into the corner.

Starting on the arete and trying not to use the small boulder to the right. Very contrived.

This starts on the face of the boulder. Stand start. Sit start would increase difficulty.

Stand start

Stand start

Stand start

Jump start onto good hold then straight up.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Sit start up scoop featured face and arete.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Rockover move just 1m to the left of "Wholly Molly" by the Nude Only tag.

Stand start and up corner feature of the whale boulder. Can also try a running start.

Running start. Hard to do statically and for the shorter people.

Start L of "Whale Traverse" at a tips mono pocket and traverse R along foot rails to exit up middle slabs.

Start at Whale Traverse and link into the top section of Whale Rail following the least steep rock. Can be done with a standing start or running start for that extra boost.

I highly doubt I'm the first to do this so the name and grade may need revision.

Traverse along the whale's flank to it's eyeball then up. Has some committing and balance moves. Mega classic!

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Run and Jump start to good lip then mantle.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Stand start and up good scoop features.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Plenty of good holds to use. Super easy - good for beginners

Juggy holds 1m right of honeycomb

Start by sitting on the "Nudie rudie" rock.

Stand start on slopey pockets and alright footholds. Straight up to a tough and slopey mantle.

Route grade, name and description may need revising.

Slopers to the obvious horn.

Just around the corner to right of Nudie Rudie. Slopers to the obvious horn.