Routes in Frederick Peak

Up the corner left of "The Frederick's Fandango". Care of the loose death blocks. Tree belay.

Starts around the corner from SSS. Climb up passing 3 U-bolts to a series of cracks and blocks and finishing at a DRB.

Starts at the arête (initialized). Stick-clip the first FH from the ground then up to the 2nd horizontal. Cruxy moves L to get into the steep but generous hand crack.

Climb right up the middle of the face and from the horizontal break at a third height, move through the mildly overhanging orange face. Continue left and reach a right leaning weakness. Follow to chains.

Starting at the right hand side of Afternoon Wall at left leaning crack (initialized). Layback left along the crack to the alcove then back right via the steep, thuggy hand crack. Take the steep corner of the left to reach ledge and chains. Alternatively follow the easier crack on the right.

Starting about 6 m left of the gully, 10m up on the terrace and left of "The Bowen Special" (initialized). Climb up through a small roof (crux), then up a vegetated corner, moving right to finish up the slabby wall/arête past a FH.

Starting 5 metres right of "SSP" at the crack line left of "The Bowen Special". A few tough moves as it steepens then onto a delicate slab. Save a large cam for the upper slab just below the tree. Belay near the top of the buttress.

Starting about 30m right of "Banana Bender" (initialized). Climb up slab to diagonal corner, following this straight up. Belay in a comfy spot where the cracks run out. Descend by a roped traverse right about 8m to an easy gully.

This climb starts in the gully at the black slab right of TBS. Starting at the left hand side of the wall, follow the right leaning crack to the top.

Starting at the open book corner (initialized), step on the larged embedded rock climb up via the pockets and jams in the crack. Head slightly right using long slings, continuing up to belay. Belay at the three large boulders.

Starting as for "Were-Rabbit" but stepping right under arête on small cams to slab. Climb up the slab and follow the crack left to belay as for "Were-Rabbit".

Climb up the steepening crack-line in the green corner 4m left of SP. Moving right just under the top, avoiding the overhang.

Watch for wasps on the right half-way up.

Starting on a thin layback crack 2 metres left of "Plum" at obvious wide-ish crack (initialized). It's a lovely climb with great gear. End up just above the "Were-Rabbit" belay using the same exit.

The was the first climb on Juicy Buttress. An awesome climb, especially for beginners learning to trad. It has a tricky start, beginning below the left facing corner (initialized). Follow the layback to turn the roof (crux). No hand rests to place gear helps before hitting crux moves. Then follow the right leaning cracks to belay and rap off the tree at the top left of the cliff.

Great climbing down low with tough, bouldery moves to get established at the lip then a committing roof on 3 FH and then a slabby climb, well below the grade, on medium sized trad gear (small cams and large nuts). Belaying at the obvious high corner allows a roped scramble to chains on PPJ.

Starts about 5m R of SP on a black slab below rooflet (initialized). Climb up into the hanging corner to jugs, stepping immediately left, around the arête. Follow the easier climbing on face & cracks to the tree on the summit. Take care at the top of the corner with the blocks.

Follow the heinous chimney and steep slab to natural belay. Take large cams.

One of the best routes at Juicy Buttress and is also the hardest with plenty of excellent gear. Follow the white overhanging crack, moving left to pod then right into the hanging orange corner. Trend left past the roof onto the steep slab to finish. Set up a natural belay or use the PPJ chains.

Starting at the orange ramp underneath overhang (initialized). Powerful and technical climbing up the overhanging crackline to join PPJ at the top corner, taking care with hollow blocks after the crux bulge.

Starting 2 metres right of the big white overhanging wall (initialized). Climb up the black and orange ramp to the obvious left leaning crackline and place the first piece of gear. Continue up following the crack with great gear to the square cut-out. A tricky move over the top (crux) to large sloping ledge. Move left to the chimney and continue up to the chains.

At the PL initials, climb straight up the intermittent crackline line past 3 FH's and good wires. Enjoyable climbing on interesting holds.

Scramble up the black ramp at the very right side of the wall to the vertical wall with initial, keeping the big chimney on your right hand side. Follow the diagonal line to the chockstone at the top of the chimney and veer slightly left, continuing up to a big flat rock with a tree behind. To descend scramble around to the right.

1. 17 32m

2. 6 8m

Starts up obvious ramp. Caress the uber jugs! Climb into mini cave 3/4 up, then L out of cave up berko jugs to finish way outer space.

Shares 1st bolt of Jugs Murphy then branches directly up and right. Climb right between last bolt and anchor for jumbo jugs.

As per Disposable Heroes and then branches further right up blocky face. Take care with large amazing horn feature.

Shares 1st 3 bolts of PTS, then trends right up layback. Brilliant exposed finish!

3 bolt direct variant start to Moonscaper (can link into Permission to Send and Disposable heroes also)

1. 38m Starts with a thin crack heading diagonally up and right then zig zags up and over a bulge (crux) then directly up to a ledge with a thin tree for the first pitch.

2. 12m Then straight up a corner crack for another 12m for the 2nd.

A beautiful beginners climb that has some slaby moves to the end crux with good holds. Shares the same anchor as Foxy Lady.

Stand back and look for the fox! A beautiful technical climb with classic jug ending. Shares the same anchor as Dirty Business.

Up the ropes on the left of the cave. Nice little orange wall.

Little trad line will a low roof and a bolt before the lower off.

Starting left of "The 28 Club" and starting with nice boulderish moves followed by a pockety/juggy traverse that leads into a fun crux with decent holds. Holds may be wet and slimy after heavy rain.

Starting left of Nude Nothings, this route has good climbing most of the way followed by a definite crux where all good holds have been ripped away to leave only a difficult move, one hard & crimpy crux. A steep finish to anchors shared with Nude Nothings.

Start as for Calamity Clam. Follow this for 2 bolts then go L up the ramp and the steep finish to the anchors of Bear Necessities.

Up to the double kneebar for a rest before last boulder problem.

The oblivious steep rib in the middle of the cave.

The crag classic, stick with the mank start as the rock gets vastly better by the third bolt. Great endurance climbing with a powerful finish.

The shorter version of The Kraken.

The extension of Short Kraken.

Starting just left of Torched. This fun route has a technical start for beginners, and tricky finish for shorter climbers.

A very fun climb with good holds up to a balancy crux! Starting 2m right of BIU; up the flake, jugs, another flake then onto the slab and up to the chains. Beware of blocks that might still be loose.

Starting around the corner from Torched and just left of Phantom Bolters. A fun route that requires good footwork, and trusting feet to get to the anchor. It shares an anchor with Phantom Bolters.

Starting just right of YB. This route has engaging and fun moves where a height dependent move in the middle is possible. It shares an anchor with Yogi Bear.

Starting just right of Phantom Bolters.

Starting just left of Nacho Libre, this is an excellent warm-up route for the area, with a technical start, and a consistent intensity level up to the finish after a short rest. Fun and technical!

Start 2m R of Haywalker. Up the flake and into the corner. Step R onto the face and up to the first lower off. Seeps extensively after rain.

Despite the name, there's good technical climbing up the corner above Nacho Libre's chains. Climb NL and continue up the corner past 4 RBs to the lower off.

Some fine thin and technical face climbing with interesting boulder start. Start as for Nacho Libre for 2 bolts then move R up the hanging arete before coming L onto the face higher up. Finish at the chains as for Nacho Average Hero.

Starting uphill from The Willing Flesh. This route has some cool moves with a few awkward and hard ones.

A steep and pumpy route with a crux at the end.

No time for second guessing, seond guessing. Climb 1st 3m of NITH, then charge R onto steep face. Head straight up to the cave . Mind the wasps 3/4 of way up in cave. They were removed but keep coming back! Stick clip 1st bolt.

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

Starts 20m L of Escape Alley. A steep start up the crack to a small roof. Move up and L (before the second roof) along a diagonal finger crack past a small shrub. Delicate moves then climb up the black crimpy slab. Follow straight up to top to reach a single FH. Descend by "Idyll Times" DBB.

3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape.

Starts just L of the arête at the beginning of Cooker Wall. Follow the crackline then gear to finish at the DBB for IT.