Showing all 39 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★ The Last Draw
The small wall on the R (facing out) with one FH. Up the easy crack till it fades, L onto the edgy face past bolt, trending L to finish. FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998 | 10m, 1 | |||
21 | Parachuting Geckos
Go R (facing out) at the base of the gully across a narrow causeway for about 15m to the base of a large green wall. Up crack to the base of the orange corner. Up the crack to the base of the orange corner. Up this (FH) to below rooflet then swing L onto face (FH). Face, trending L and passing another FH to the ledge. Finish up face and arete (FH). FA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998 | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | Chameleon
Situated 10m L of "State Of Love & Trust" (Gallery Cliff) but best accessed by scrambling 20m down the steep, seaward-facing gully on The Pinnacle saddle to the base of the route (on L wall of gully). Natural pro to start, then up wall (2 FH's) to beneath overhang. Through this to the L (FH) and up final wall (FH) to top. Set: Lee Cujes, 1998 FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014 | 15m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Midlife Crisis
p1. Another sustained climb on excellent rock. Start 3m L of PM below a ledge and large scoop. Climb up and L, following the line of bolts to the crux. Pull up R, then hard L to a big fin and then to the chains. p2. Straight up from the anchor to the summit. Fully bolted since December 2021 FFA: Mark Gommers & Chris Noon, 2003 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014 | 30m, 2 | |||
30 | ★★ Mainstage
True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis. FFA: Glen Hayford, 18 Nov 2018 | 15m, 10 | |||
30 | ★★★ Mainstage Direct
A direct start to Mainstage, one main boulder right into where it all kicks off. The start of the route isn't so hard. FFA: Glen Hayford, 5 Jul 2020 | 30m, 16 | |||
29 | Skipped
A boulder problem on a rope, probably height dependant. Don't forget to clip! FFA: Glen Hayford, 2 May 2020 | 6m, 5 | |||
25 | Two Dollar Snag
Pretty tricky movements down low to some interesting holds up high. Better off just going to Harvey's Marbles. FFA: Glen Hayford | 8m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★★ Physical Meditation
Superb sustained climbing up a beautiful line. Scotts finest hour. Starts 2m R of MC, 5 carrots (fully threaded and overdriven) to natural gear. Take a wire to clip the 2nd bolt if your short. It's about a 21 to the FH and the route gets morning shade. FA: Scott Johnson, 1991 | 30m, 5 | |||
15 | Marelas Crack
The cracked corner on The Pinnacle visible from the Playground. More of an epic strain than a climb. Follow the crack on greasy rock into a cave (beware loose rock) and out the other side to exit. FA: Mick Pezet & Rob Smythe, 1984 | 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Old, Fat and Broken
Technical slightly slabbed climbing following the bolts. FA: Mark Newell, 2017 FFA: Glen Hayford & Elsie Bast, 15 Jul 2018 | 23m, 9 | |||
24 | ★★ The El Niño Effect
Well protected and sustained. Start by scrambling (roped) L from below PMs start to a 2 bolt belay on a tiny ledge on the arete, or do The Monsoon. Step L from the belay then up the face passing 8FHs and optional cams near the top. Still awaits the connection to the Monsoon to make a super sustained 50m pitch. FA: Mark Gommers & Scott Johnson, 1991 | 30m, 8 | |||
20 | ★ The Monsoon
Starts at the crack in the shallow chimney, 2m R of the NW arête (L of TENE) - the next one past the offwidth. Take the crack to the FH then Traverse R to TENEs belay. FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ Cyclone
Take TM to the FH then trend L past several more and a medium friend to join RTS up high. Finish as for its 2nd pitch. FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996 | 50m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★★ Romancing the Stone
1
18
2
22
3
20
This is fantastic & full of adventure! The second pitch provides the best climbing. Starts in the obvious corner a few metres L and downhill from TM.
FA: Mark Gommers & Michael Dielenberg, 1991 | 50m, 3, 12 | |||
20 | ★★ Megalith
Excellent varied climbing up the E (seaward) face of The Pinnacle. Mark Gommers removed a thorn tree from this after it split a rope. Star a few m L of RTS.
FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991 | 50m, 2, 8 | |||
17 | ★ Screaming Dog
Rap off the chains at top of The Pinnacle down to tree about 20m down where the semi-hanging anchor is. Pull the rope and follow the bolts to end up on big ledge on the left and follow through the cave to an opening. Sling a boulder to make a belay. If you don't like run outs this top part probably isn't for you can feel very exposed. Originally meant to go straight up the face and back to chains but Mark ran out of bolts. FFA: Mark Newell, 2017 | 20m, 8 | |||
17 | Black Dog
Ugly. Star as for M then L to the chimney and up this to the top. FA: Peter Kingsbury & Raymond Stuart, 1994 | 50m | |||
15 | Shared Cubicle
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24 | ★★ Black Widow
Powerfully sustained up a threatening line. The bottomless hand crack 3m L of the deep chimney in the corner L of M. Starts on the L arete of the chimney. Up this, L onto the face past 3FHs and up the stepped crackline. DRB at the top. FA: Mark Gommers, 1994 | 35m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Suspended Animation
Starts a few metres left of Black Widow. FFA: Nathan Bolton & Dan Radford, 2005 | 40m | |||
14 | ★ Chi
Start up the roots to the tight chimney then an easy but dangerous exit. FA: Allan McGill, Zoltan Swain & Matthew Swait, 1990 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ The Green Slab
FA: Nathan Bolton / Dan Radford | 30m | |||
21 | ★★ Achtung Baby
This route gets morning tree shade. Great crack climbing 2m L CTGPB. Climb to DBB on ledge then rap off to avoid mass off loose boulders above. Bring tapes or finish up WO. FA: Aiden Forde & Scott Johnson, 1991 | 18m | |||
16 | Way Out
Hand and fist crack at far L end of ledge atop AB. Crack till it ends then traverse 2m L to continue with the 2nd pitch of SL. FA: Scott Johnson & Aiden Forde, 1991 | 15m | |||
20 | ★★ Flogging the Dead Donkey
Intimidating. A fine climb with a thoughtful and sequency crux. Climb up the crack to the first roof, which is ascended on the R and continue up through the second and third roofs to the chains. FA: Nathan Bolton & Daniel Radford | 20m, 7 | |||
22 | Aufwiedersehen
1
22
22m
2
18
18m
2 pitches of intimidating climbing, all natural except for 1 FH.
FA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Andrew Rule, 2001 | 40m, 2, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Step Lightly
1
23
30m
2
16
10m
A flaky arête about 22m L of M. Requires a gentle touch.
FA: Scott Johnson & Mark Gommers, 1991 | 40m, 2, 10 | |||
22 | ★★ Divine Balance
1
18
20m
2
22
20m
The 2nd pitch involves some nice climbing on a heavily featured face.
FA: Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2000 | 40m, 2, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Balance of Probabilities
Starting at the anchors of Divine Balance. Climbs the obvious hanging arete L of DB. Tricky moves to start followed by sustained climbing up the arete passing 5 FHs, take small wires for the top out. FFA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Adam Hardaker, 2001 | 20m, 5 | |||
16 | ★★ Self Portrait Variant
Start at the arete a few metres R of SP. Climb the arete past a few FHs to reach the SP belay chains. FFA: Adam Hardaker, Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2001 | 10m | |||
21 | Self Portrait
1
18
10m
2
21
30m
First pitch originally known as "Mouth Full Of Dirt" by M Retallick and A Rule. Starts at the obvious crack 2m right of NSG.
FA: Andrew Rule & Mark Retallick, 1994 FFA: Mark Gommers & Adam Hardaker, 2001 | 40m, 2, 7 | |||
16 | Self Portrait Variant Traverse
Starts at SP belay chains. Step across the void and continue R to the chains of DB. FFA: Mark Gommers, Adam Hardaker & Rik Wittkopp, 2001 | 8m | |||
19 | ★★ Non Son Girate
As good as "Tannin"[12880699] - 35m of continuous varied climbing. All natural gear to one carrot at the top. An easier variant to SR. Start as for SR. Climb SR up the wide flake-crack to the roof. Exit roof to L and continue up the crack L of the blank corner. When the crack ends, move R and finish as for SR. FFA: Aiden Forde & Suzanne Dyer, 1991 | 35m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Spontaneous Ritual
A classy variant of NSG. Starts 20m L of SL. Take it to the roof and the groove then move R onto the ledge above the roof. Up the clean thin corner joining NSG near the top. 1 BR near the top. FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991 | 35m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Cousteau
To the left of Spontaneous Ritual is a wall. Blast up this to glory. FFA: Mark Gommers, 1998 FA: Jay Reilly TR, 1998 | ||||
20 | You Lead It, No You Lead It
An interesting start then....no fun. Starts 2m R of the arete at the end of the wall. Up R to gain the arete at the end of the wall. Up and R to gain the arete and continue up the widening crack past 3FHs to the ledge and large tree. You can rap as for NSG. FA: Dan Ellis, Paul Slattery & Julie West, 1994 | 40m, 3 | |||
15 | Chubby Chester's Chimney
Looks gross. 5m L of the previous route (YLINYLI), exit at the old tree. | 20m | |||
16 | One Too Many Cams
The crack opposite YLINYLI to ledge then L and up crack. FA: Paul Slattery, Dan Ellis & Julie West, 1994 | 20m |
Showing all 39 routes.