Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Black Hill The Northern Group Upper Tier | |||||||
26 |
★★ Ugly Voyage
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
I thought this was 25, may have had a few more holds in 2004 by the sounds of it! Really good face climbing.
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Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Mt Alexander Dog Rocks | |||||||
21 |
★★ Little Bo Peep
![]() | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
21 |
★★ Modern Logic
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Good fun, slightly contrived but climbing is worth it.
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27 |
Finger Food
![]() | 15m | Average | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
24 |
★★ Scottish Reign
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
19 |
★★ Dick McGinty
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Mt Alexander Scorpion Rocks | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Gravity Grave
![]() | 15m | Sun 14th Nov 2004 | ||||
25 |
★★★ Parklife
![]() | 10m, 4 | Sun 14th Nov 2004 | ||||
23 |
★★ Sustain the Pain
![]() | 12m, 3 | Sun 14th Nov 2004 | ||||
25 |
★★ I'll Stick Around
![]() | 12m, 3 | Sun 14th Nov 2004 | ||||
Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Camels Hump Omega Block Area Omega Block | |||||||
17 |
★★ Witch
![]() | 21m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Remember this being solid for the grade
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21 |
★★★ Boogie 'til You Puke
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
23 |
★★ The Broomstick
![]() | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Werribee Gorge Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | |||||||
23 |
★★★ Redex Irlont Sudano
![]() | 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds The You Yangs The Stockyards Car-Park Area North-Western Outcrop | |||||||
20 |
★★ Grimulace
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
very harsh rock
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26 |
★★ Pit Simitri
![]() | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
28 |
★ Pain and Frequency
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Jun 2004 | |||
Thanks to Neil for the rebolting! I think this took me 7 days in the end. Clearly a sandbag at 28 ; ) (I did actually do about four other 28's in 2004, all in 2-4 days, but this one is an unusual style)
Actually a very good route if you live in Melb and like crimping, aretes and slabbing. |
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21 |
★★ Squish Band
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds The You Yangs Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | |||||||
25 26 |
★★ Edging Bets
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
25? Remember something a little scary about this, but also that it was good face climbing and that the finish was a bit exciting - probably mostly because I was pumped. Remember AlRob doing it well.
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20 |
★★ A Question of Ethics
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | Sat 14th Nov 2015 | |||
Classic slab climbing - just the same move over and over...
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Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area The Gallery | |||||||
26 26 R |
★★ Gorilla Tactics
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
24 |
★★ Two Tribes
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
23 |
★★ Chain of Fools
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
26 25 |
★★ Mr Meat - Weaveworld - Chain Of Fools
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
25 |
★ Hueco Dreaming
![]() | 9m | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Nov 2015 | |||
I didn't find this a soft touch at all!
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Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall | |||||||
20 19 |
★★ Namarron
![]() | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
I thought this was at least 20.. though maaybe I was tired. Good varied climbing (even has a jam up top) and mostly good rock - loses it a bit in the middle.
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21 |
★ Dreaming of a White Christmas
![]() | 40m, 13 | Don't Bother | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
Climbing is ok but too loose feeling for me at the top. First bolt is very high - a good idea to stick clip as it's not easy up the slab. First crux is quite a way left of the bolt. Basically, there's better things here.
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19 |
★★ The Apology
![]() | 50m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
Great climbing AND rock. Goes on forever (did it in one pitch, 2 raps). Beware the start though, I've seen some good climbers spat off the ultra-technical first crux.
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19 18 |
★★ The Perfect Extraction
![]() | 40m, 18 | ★ Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
I could have just got it wrong, but crux seemed harder than 18. A bit loose at the top. Can lower with care on a 70 - not a 50m pitch. Maybe there are higher chains also?
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20 19 |
★★ Archies Arete
![]() | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
Great technical wall climbing, ducks around the arete twice in the top half despite where the bolts are. Looks like a reachy crux. Not overbolted! Felt quite runout at times. Also felt like solid 20.
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22 |
★★ Dreaming of Reconciliation
![]() | 39m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Oct 2015 | |||
Good climbing, brittle rock - and thankfully we had Adam there to tell us to lower off a ring bolt before the top, where it gets really loose. Funky crux at the start - I could imagine falling off this a lot.
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Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★ Cocky Calamity
![]() | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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18 |
★★ Skirt Alert
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Good, odd low angle fine grain rock, some delicate bridging
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19 |
★ Udder Shudder
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
18 |
★ Spare Rib
![]() | 20m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
A very hard start, then ok, then something about the finish, maybe loose.
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Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Town Cliffs The Radiator | |||||||
19 |
★★ Hot
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
The route to do, good climbing and position.
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22 |
★ Feel the Heat
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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19 |
The Only Way is Up
![]() | 26m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
OK climbing with a loose odd block on the crux. Happy to tr it.
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14 |
Dirty Work
![]() | 25m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Appropriately named - the top desintegrates into a dirt and chockstone filled groove. Go L for rock, if not gear.
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Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Checkpoint Charlie
![]() | 25m, 5 | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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22 21 |
★ Sacred Ground
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 |
★★ Sprung
![]() | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Victoria North West Grampians Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer | |||||||
24 |
The Price You Pay Direct
![]() | 20m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
18 |
★★ Island Cruise
![]() | 30m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
17 |
★★ Odysseus
![]() | 84m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Done cause it was raining and a bit was dry.
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12 |
★★ Scarab
![]() | 59m, 1 | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Wandery but has some good bits
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16 |
★★ The Frog
![]() | 45m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Remarkably good, doesn't look that great from the ground. Slings and biners to rap off as of early 2016
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17 |
★★ Gerontian
![]() | 46m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Recently attempted this with one #4 Camalot and backed off - the wires aren't convincing. Tried to do it in one pitch, which is also not great as the ledge causes the rope to pull out on your gear. Best to belay on the ledge.
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19 |
Crash Dive
![]() | 25m | Don't Bother | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Poor rock
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21 |
★★★ Pathos
![]() | 28m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
20 |
★★ Blanketty Blank
![]() | 28m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Remember something a bit dodgy about this route - maybe not such great gear or loose rock?
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24 25 |
★★ Bliss
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
25 |
★★ Ostler
![]() | 60m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Thin and hard
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21 20 |
★★★ Blimp
![]() | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
22 |
★★ Lunging for Melons
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Very odd!
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25 |
★★ Manic Depressive
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
25 24 |
Fistful of Steel
![]() | 15m | Average | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
27 |
★★ Angular Perspective (to first chain)
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jan 2016 | |||
Dave and I both did it in bare feet - I'm sure it's easier without shoes as you can get your toes in the pockets for the dyno.
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Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Fritz and Cyclops
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th Oct 2015 | |||
Great steep funky stuff. Pumpy to place the gear.
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Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Ravine | |||||||
20 18 |
★ Point Perpetrator
![]() | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
and this seemed more like 20 with a tricky start if you're not short. Wish I was short.
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18 |
★ Hey Youse
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Really nice incuts. Seems more like 18 to me.
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19 |
★ Waterfall Bogans
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Really nice incut holds.
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22 21 |
★ Minced Beef Eaters
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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23 |
★★ Pain Criminals Link-up
![]() | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Great varied climbing on nearly all big holds
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19 |
★★ Pains Ford
![]() | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Great but a bit of a jug haul - liked the 23 more as it was more varied
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20 |
★★ Try Land
![]() | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
20 21 |
★ Lake Thelma
![]() | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | Wed 23rd Mar 2016 | |||
21 |
★ Brush with Authority
![]() | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Only dim memories but I think it was a bit scary at the start and hard after that
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19 18 |
★ Glue Mountains
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
I found this quite technical and sustained - maybe it was just first route on a humid day
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17 18 |
★ Gaybarry
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | Sat 12th Mar 2016 | |||
Easier if you're tall - one reachy move.
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Victoria North West Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||||
19 |
★★ Coeur de Lion
![]() | 43m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th May 2016 | |||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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19 |
★ Silent Senile Running Foxes
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2016 | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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23 |
★ Rain Aneurysm
![]() | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | Thu 9th Jun 2016 | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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16 |
Heart Full of Soul
![]() | 60m | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2016 | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 |
★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | Sun 5th Jun 2016 | |||
18 |
★ Perpetual Standstill
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jun 2016 | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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13 |
★ Sundowner
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jun 2016 | |||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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22 |
★ Cream Between
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Jun 2016 | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre | |||||||
23 |
Roadside Attraction Direct Start
![]() | 20m, 1 | Don't Bother | Tue 31st Dec 1991 | |||
18 |
★ Roadside Attraction
![]() | 20m | Don't Bother | Sun 2nd Sep 1990 | |||
Poor protection, rock and climbing.
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22 21 |
★ Beelzebub Direct Start
![]() | 10m, 1 | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
Very, very hard for 20. And probably reachy, and dangerous getting to the bolt.
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17 |
★ Beelzebub
![]() | 27m | Average | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | |||
23 |
★ Nuns Love It
![]() | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Sep 2013 | |||
Good climbing, funky moves but the bolts are in the strangest places and seem like they would be hard to clip.
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13 |
★ Bostok
![]() | 40m | Average | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
OK - access to chains at top of Nuns Love It
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16 15 |
★ Mullumbimby Madness
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | |||
Hard and spaced gear for 15. Great climbing though, I love this one.
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23 |
★ A Dream Of Pink Tse-Tse Flies Direct
![]() | 25m | Average | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | |||
Just a few thin moves. It's fun but over after 6m
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18 |
★★ Salem
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 2nd Sep 2011 | |||
Not much worthwhile gear in the first few metres and then run out a little off good gear up the corner. #3 cam may be handy for upper pocket, don't need #1 and #2 camalots
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17 18 |
★★ Morgul Khan
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | Fri 2nd Sep 2011 | |||
Easy for 18, and nice. Diagonal right to chains
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19 |
★★ Morgul Can't
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | |||
Gear is a bit dodgy on the crux but I would do again. You have gear below.
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18 17 |
★★ Edgell Gerber Memorial Flake Climb
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
I always find this hard for 17. Take 3rp?
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6 |
★★ Exodus
![]() | 36m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2000 | |||
6 6 R |
★ Cloaca
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | Sat 2nd Sep 2000 | |||
9 |
★ The Parson's Nose
![]() | 35m | ★ Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | |||
17 |
★ The Great White Hope
![]() | 35m | Average | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
Good and hard but broken
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11 |
★ Penny Dreadful
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Sep 2003 | |||
Start to the right! The direct start is great but hard and slippery and poorly protected for the grade. It makes a much better start for Witch Hunt.
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15 14 |
★★ Witch Hunt
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Sep 2003 | |||
May be hard for 14. Great climbing.
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22 |
Witch Craft
![]() | 40m | ★ Good | Sun 2nd Sep 2012 | |||
It's definitely not 18. The start is about 21 and then you pull through the roof on a 2 finger pocket (crux) and end by mantling a horn on the arete.
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11 |
★★ The Archbishop
![]() | 48m | ★ Good | Tue 2nd Sep 2014 | |||
Actually good.
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Victoria North West Arapiles Mitre Rock Deacon Area | |||||||
15 |
★ Deacons Dilemma
![]() | 16m | ★ Good | Tue 17th Nov 2015 | |||
Harder than it looks
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9 |
Gloop
![]() | 16m | Average | Tue 17th Nov 2015 |