Routes in North East for selected grade

From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings.

Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs.

Classic hard slab climbing.

To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge.

From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this.

Looks good.

1. 35m. Start as for Diamond Dogs Direct Start. Up DDDS to its fourth bolt then straight up, through the traverse line of DD, and the headwall above (fixed hangers) to a double ring belay.

2. 45m. Step L and up into a thin flake (bolts). From the top of the flake, hard moves right up a series of edges. Up leftwards (bolts) to drop down left around the base of blunt arete and up into the gully to belay.

Giant Offwidth/trench going straight up of the first belay of Caligula.

"Typhon was known as the “Father of All Monsters.” Birthed from Gaia (the earth) and Tartarus (the depths of hell), he was said to have been the most ferocious creature ever to roam the earth."

RED TAGGED removed and sent 2/4/18. Have at it!

OWSD. #bringthewide

One of the best single pitches at Mt Buffalo. A 'must do'. Right of 'Dressed to Kill' and 'Winnie the Pooh'. Abseil 50m from the top of 'Iron Maiden'. Starts at a double bolt belay at the base of a closed corner. Stem up the corner, step L into another corner, continue stemming up this to a few problematic moves out onto the left shoulder of the corner. Continue up to a flake then the slabby blunt arete and the top part of Iron Maiden. 10 bolts plus the top bolt of Iron Maiden

Malcolm thinks that this might be the worst route name he has ever ascribed, and suggests that it deserves more traffic than the name suggests! The crack is a smooth split compared to most cracks at Buffalo (ie it's similar in texture to Lift Girls Lament).

Takes the crack facing out into the gorge, with a steep start.

Brushed streak (not so brushed any more) on left end of upper part of North Wall. Starts at bottom of second abseil on Comet Ramp at a small flake corner.

P.1... semi hanging belay on 1 carrot, 1 FH and 1 chain loop

P.2. 2 carrot bolts, 5FH's plus natural gear. This pitch was brushed 12/01/2022, but could do with more.

Start: Start atop p2 of Il Duce.

1. 45m (25)

2. 25m (23)

3. 34m (21) As for Führer p4.

1. 24m (15) As for Il Duce p1.

2. 30m (21) As for Il Duce p2.

3. 45m (25) As for 'El Supremo' p1.

4. 25m (23) As for 'El Supremo' p2.

5. 30m (25) As for 'Lebensraum' p2.

1. 34m (25)

2. 34m (25) M3 if aided.

3. 40m (17)

4. 34m (21)

Start: Start as for Führer.

1. 30m (25) - 4 bolts

2. 43m (25) - 1 bolts

3. 35m (24) - 3 bolts

4. 32m (25)

Start: 'Access' by 2 abseils down the route: 40m to bolted anchor (which is the 3rd belay of Mein Kampf), then another 25m to a trad belay alcove just L of the 2nd belay of 'Lord of the Flies'.

1. 25m (23) - 7 bolts

2. 30m (25)

Start: Stat as for Führer.

1. 34m (25) As for Führer p1.

2. 27m (23)

3. 24m (19)

4. 35m (23)

5. 18m (-)

Amazing, thin face climbing up the middle of the North face of the pinnacle. 7 FH's, 1 BR. Rap down the South face.

Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay).

The longest hard-ish route on the plateau, with pitch grades of 16, 23, 25 M1, 20, 21, 19, easy, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, 13. Warning!!! Pitches 2 and 3 have a few dangerous (brittle) screw-in ring bolts which need to be replaced! Access: either scramble down, down, down Queen Vic Gully to the foot of the buttress, or make the many abseils required down the route (it the latter option is chosen, realise that a bit further than half way down there is notch behind the lower of the two pinnacles that are major features of this buttress. A short roped scramble/climb up the back of tis lower pinnacle is required before the abseiling can be continued down the route to the bottom). Route is best described and seen by the route description and photo-topo on pp112 and 113 respectively of the 2006 guidebook

Dubious splits across two boulders with a sketchy fall included.

5-10 minute scramble straight out of campsite 28, at the third set of boulders.

To access these next four routes it is worth doing a quick reconnaissance from the tourist lookout to locate the top of the buttress (down approximately west-southwest from the lookout) and the easiest way down to it. Scramble down then abseil from 3 bolts at the top of the buttress.

1. Starts a little L of Arachnophobia (which is the R crack-line). Up small corner then R at FH to horizontal flake/ledge. Up past 3 FH and a BR to the top.

The offwidth roof crack visible from the walking track. Crux is at the lip to easier wide crack above.

A few metres down the ramp (right) from the start of Shellshock.

Climbs the upper part of the face left of They Might be Giants. Abseil to Doctor Worm's middle belay chains. Bridge up 3 m until a BR on the right can be clipped. Step carefully onto the face and head up and right past another BR onto the slab to gain the obvious knob. Continue up the brilliant steep featured face past another 7 BRs to the top.

Start 15m right of 'Glossop Skins' (and 15 down left of 'The Initiation'.

Abseil from trad gear about 8m to the right of the anchors atop 'Glossop Skins', down over the traverse of 'The Initiation', to a semi-hanging belay off two bolts in a gently-angled scoop. Easy slabbing past a couple of bolts, then up through the traverse of 'The Initiation' (BR), to gain a rightward-leaning groove (wires and small/medium cams). When this fizzles out, head up via three bolts (crux) to the top.

Starts 2 or 3m right of 'Redbacks'. From the extreme right end of the ledge, make an exposed few moves up and right and follow the bolts up just left of the arete. Toward the top, angle up leftward to gain the 'Redbacks' belay.

On the L side of the arete. One carrot and two FHs.

Takes the line to the right of the striking arete. 3 early edition ring bolts that are starting to show their age.

Often attempted, rarely topped out on! The highball hand crack is usually top roped as the crux is right at the top. Old school!

A striking and powerful line on very smooth overhung rock. Start matched on sloping hold/jug. Head diagonally right and up, top out.

The first closed seam left of the small cave. Hard moves lead to hole and jugs. Lurch left to finger crack with one more hard move at the top. 4 FHs. The top of the crack may need brushing after rain.

Start as for Doughboy. At jugs continue up the line to where the seam peters out. Head out R (crux) on tiny crimps and then up. 6 FHs.

Start as for Falcon's Lair, move left past the two scoops then up the face past 3 BRs to join Falcon's Lair.

6m left of Root Canal is a rippled face. Crank your pants off past 5 BRs.

Chipped line up the left steep face.

Traverse the big boulder behind "Jumpin" from R to L.

Sit start on sloped right hand edge and good left hand crimp directly below 'Hopeless Boulder Direct'. Big move to the seam. Follow 'Seams Hopeless' to top out.

Sit start and climb the blunt arete to the R of Headjams. Finish up the finger crack.

The R arete of the chimney at the rear of the Citadel. Stand start using sharp RH crimp on face (around head height) and left hand on thin sidepull (about 40cm lower) in chimney. Difficult moves lead to sloper and top out. (Sit start yet to be done...)

Sit-start on a big sloper on the boulder under the main roof. Climb the arete to finish matched in a pocket.

Sit-start just left of Bovine Nation on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to join Cowgirls and Indians.

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Long moves on sharp crimps to small rail and good feet.