Routes in Victoria

Please help locate me. So far only indication is "in the Grampians" This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

https://vimeo.com/139677877

Please help locate me. So far indications suggest Grampians, maybe Buandik area. This is part of an ongoing effort to document the hardest boulders currently defined in the world.

As per the normal Wheel Of Life problem, but with a more difficult and direct finish

The long standing open project linking the entire 'Hollow Mountain Cave' end to end. Start as for X-Treme Cool (V9), and keep climbing into all of 'Sleepy Hollow' (V12), Cave Girl (V8/9), Dead Can't Dance (V11) - finishing up 'Rave Heart'. Route grade of 36/37

Pretty Hate Machine with the Eve Reve finish

Links 'Sleepy Hollow' + Cave Girl + Dead Can't Dance - first ascent spread over a mere 3 days.

David

Climb Cave Man into all of Dead Can't Dance.

Starts as for the Wheel of Life, but halfway through Sleepy Hollow traverses into Stimulation and climbs the whole of Stimulation (with the exception of the first move) till its end, which is also the finish of Silverchair – hence Wheelchair.

8 move cliff, no top out.

Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link

Klem Loskot's piece de resistance - Climb all of Cave Man and keep going into the crux of Dead Can't Dance, and finish up 'Rave Heart'.

Links Cave Bitch into Dead Can't Dance, finishing as for 'Rave Heart'

Link 'Sleepy Hollow' into Cave Girl

Links X-Treme Cool into 'Sleepy Hollow'. First ascent spread over 12 days.

Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt.

Sit start on hueco.

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

Sit start on two edges under the rooflet. Reach out to slopers and crimps and make a press out left to the pocket. Big reaches back right gain the big high flake and finish as for The Nevin Rule.

The final chapter... Start as for 'Spanking the Monkeybars', reverse 'A Horse is a Horse', then finish as for 'The Weill of Fortune'. Route grade of 33.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

a.k.a Enter the Dragon, a.k.a. Mortal Combat. This is the subtle groove about 6-8m R of Mr J's arête. "33/34" with tricky beta on both cruxes and lots of kneebar action, says Alex. Start at the DRB at the base of Venom. Trend L past FH, through desperately blank looking bulge, to follow the line of anti-holds up the attractive faint groove, joining Venom at the big break. Nalle reported "8B boulder section with very precise and shoulder intensive moves, bad feet and the two worst slopers I’ve ever seen on a route. This is followed by an easier but absolutely amazing scoopy section to a pretty ok rest. From there you set up for one of the craziest dynos I’ve ever done! If you stick the low percentage dyno, there’s still a sustained run-out section with long moves to the anchor".

Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge.

This route was previously known as The Sean Myles Project and bolted in around '92 by its English namesake. Like a woody problem on classic Arapilisian bums through a steep wall to finish up crimpy headwall. Start at base of roof left of Aristocrat (clip the 3 dynas with single biners for ease of climbing, and to keep rope away from holds). Slappy compression leads to base of seam. Clip bolt at lip and head straight up via pulls between edges and last bolt to easy finish and single bolt lower-off.

The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab).

SDS low in the cave. Crimp and compress your way up and left on the impressive nose, to better holds over the bulge.

There you have it... the main event. LDWT into DIM. Epic.

Easy climbing to a dynamic and reachy section through a blank looking roof. Cut loose and prosper.

Easy climbing leads to a couple of hard moves on slopey holds.

Hard climbing with a powerful and shouldery crux.

Start in the far left of the cave and work your way right before finishing up Cold Hands.

Sit on arete and traverse up and left into Kant Touch This

Sit start on left-hand side of boulder, moving right through undercling and various pinches, finishing with a desperate and bare top-out. Good idea to suss the finish before getting there.

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

Starts up 'Extended World' V10, drops down into Wimmel Friedhof V5 and then finishes up 'Gastonia' V8

X-Treme cool into 'Desire'

Link Body Eater into 'Ogre Thumb'

Starts on the two 'rails' - at the finish of Cave Man - then climbs out via the famous 'pinch' hold into a gaston crux (the pinch hold of Rave Heart) finishing as for Wimmel Friedhoff.

Start as for 'Passion' then traverse all the way across the crux of Klapusterperle, through the start of 'Bitch Slap' and finish as for 'Winterkirsch'. Has also been done by finishing up 'Bitch Slap' (Sharik Walker) at no change in grade.

Start underclinging the left side of the scoop feature (just left of the start of The Nevin Rule). Move up to LH incut crimp via tricky kneebars and underclings, gaston edges to meet The Nevin Rule at the high pinch. Finish as for The Nevin Rule.

Sit start on underclings below the white rail 2m left of the start of STMB. Climb to a slopey pocket and underclings to make a big move gaining the slopey pinch of STMB and finish as for this problem.

Stand start on crimps, use arete to throw for good edge.