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Between the Sheeps All Bouldering 28 routes in crag

28
BLDV
V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7V9V11

Seasonality

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Description

An exposed and very steep venue located on the far right hand end of the Mt Stapylton massif. All the problems are steep (roof) following sharp pockets/edges - with some finishes quite exciting due to the 30ft slab which resides beneath the terrace. Problems described left to right.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

Access by taking the walking track from the Mt Zero carpark, then all the way past 'Taipan' Lower/Emu Rock. When the path branches in 2, take the left path (as for Stapylton summit/Cave Club/The Citadel) and continue along for a further 30 seconds. A vague path then leads straight through the bush to the cliffline (visible from the main path).

© (boardlord)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 ★★ Railroad Boulder

Left most problem. Sit start and move up to the good edge in the break, then gaston and undercling your way out the lip to an interesting mantle. Classic.

2
V4 ★★ Carpet Crawler Boulder

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

3
V4 ★ Slot Machine Boulder

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

4
V4 ★★ Railway Machine Boulder

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

5
V3 ★ Cinema Show Boulder

An independant and direct line right of 'Slot Machine'.

6
V4 Orange Goblin Boulder

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

7
V8 Bonsai Boulder

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

8
V6 Kamikaze Boulder

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

9
V4 ★★ To Catch a Thief Boulder

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

10
V3 ★ I Must Have Been the Thief Boulder

Awkward sit start off the raised platform from two good large pockets, then up directly via more pockets (clue - gaston) to lip jug.

11
V7 ★★ Bomb Shell Boulder

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

12
V6 ★★★ Remains of Sheep Boulder

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

13
V6 ★★★ Between the Sheeps Boulder

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

14
V11 ★★★ When We Were Kings Boulder

Only one of the moves on this 14 move roof traverse is hard. Unfortunately all the rest require exactly the same muscles, ensuring a month long bicep ache. Fred Nicole didn't do it! Can you?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

15
V12 Kings Cross Boulder

A more direct line into When We Were Kings, starting further to the right.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

16
V12 ★ Big Buck Hunter Boulder

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

17
V12 War Chief Boulder

Listed as a project (#19) in the 2016 guide. Sit start on chossy looking jugs 2m right of Big Buck Hunter, up direct into the finish holds of When We Were Kings.

18
V6 Family Loss Boulder

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

19
V5 ★ Anal Head Boulder

The very attractive line right of 'Family Loss' starting with a very low sit start under the roof utilising a LH pinch/pocket on the rib and a large RH gaston. Up through slopers and another gaston (or sidepull) to finish.

20
V4 Wirschllsiada Boulder

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

21
V4 ★★ Chas Remains Boulder

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

22
V0 Project#2 Boulder

Project to the right of the finish of 'Kings Cross'.

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23
V3 ★★ Bunny Boulder 3m

Sit start on the left, follow wavy cracks up on lovely slopey holds.

FA: Stefan H

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24
V4 ★★ Rat Poison Boulder 8m

Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs.

FA: Callum Mather

25
V9 ★★★ Poison Salad Boulder

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

FA: Callum Mather

26
V8 ★★ Rat Salad Boulder 4m

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

FA: Callum Mather

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27
V5 ★★ Fallen Watchtower Boulder 4m

Stand start, big move to lip and mantle.

FA: Callum Mather

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28
V5 Crumbling Castle Boulder 3m

Sit start with udercling and crimp, up to edge and throw for sloper. Head left on slopers and mantle. Low right foot ledge is out. Bit crumbly but still worthy.

FA: Callum Mather

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Central Grampians Guide Vol 2 West and South

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Central Grampians Guide Vol 1 North and East

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

-5% Buy
ⓘ
Grampians Bouldering Guide

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Buy
ⓘ

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Nearby Icons

V3 ★★ Railroad
V6 ★★★ Remains of Sheep
V9 ★★★ Poison Salad
V11 ★★★ When We Were Kings

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★ Big Buck Hunter V12 - 077CD14A-6F51-457F-9459-C3CE987AAE33.jpeg

★ Big Buck Hunter V12 - 042C54C3-ADDA-4A63-8BDB-2161FB9CE277.jpeg

Sat 29 Apr
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