Routes in Wagstaffe - Bouldering

Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out.

Start from the same start holds as Analysis Paralysis, Instead of heading out left go straight up the direct. Cross left hand to a crimp just before the lip, move right to a sloper and head straight up through a tricky mantle.

Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6

The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade.

Starting in the large pocket make your way straight up via a left hand crimp and undercling. Traverse left a few moves and mantle out.

Start matched in the huge pocket to the right of Which Choice. Move up and right, using the crimps and a left toe hook to grab the jug and mantle to finish (mantle straight up for a challenge, otherwise out right is easier).

Start right hand on lowest hold of the arete. Left hand on the block crimp. Make your way up squeezing the aretes and mantle out the top

Start on the left arete. Left Hand on rail, right hand on side pull and climb the left face. Boulder behind is not in.

Start on buldging sidepull and climb directly up the slab. Other boulder is not in.

Start matched on the low left sidepull then continue out right an up to top out.

Start R on positive side pull edge and L on thin flake. Straight up to the slopey ramp near the ferns and top out. Does not share any holds with Continuous Motion.

5m left of Continuous Motion. Sitstart on jug flake and hole.

(more or less) Sit start at bottom right hand end, feet on the ledge inside the cave. Traverse left on pockets then straight up off crimp to easy top out.

Start as per TB, but from low point continue up and left before topping out. Finishes 1.5m further left than TB.

Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM.

Start as for previous problems, but traverse all the way along the middle break of the boulder, topping out at the very end. Will be a classic when it cleans up.

Sit start at the base of the prow on the left hand side. Use edges and slopers to the gain the jug then mantle the prow. Just as good mantling the left hand side as right over the point.

Arete left of the bottom cave entrance. Needs a good clean.

Right hand side of wall. Hard SS possible.

Left hand side of wall – hard start to easy finish. Awkward landing on sloping ramp.

The slabby but high wall around to the left.

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

Makes a good problem into a classic. Sit start the crack right of the arête, throw up to the slopey break and then across left to the arête. Blast up.

The steep left hand arête. Start lowish on the slopey break and sidpull around the corner.

Prance up the arête to tricky topout.

Stand (jump?) start 2 m left of right arête, from large(ish) sidepull. 2 big moves to the top. Was going to be Lofty's pride and joy until he ripped of a good gaston hold on the first move. Sit start to come?

Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds.

Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line.

Small roof/arête on the next wall left of the chimney. Slopey top out.

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'

The right side of the top arête. Not exactly 'Frankenstein' at the Fear Factory.

Sit start on low pockets in middle of wall. Straight up past flat slopers and slopey hole to high and committing topout up the slab. Pretty bloody good.

JPs own personal battle. Hard sit start at right arête, up to big sloping bulge and finish up slab.

Start in same area as for AFTC, but head up diagonally right past 2 slots to join BOTB at the big knob. Quite a few different ways to do this, with underclings, slopes etc. 'Almost' done…

Straight up red/black streak on small holds to cave, traverse off.

2m right of RB, potential finish through roof.

Sit start on left hand side of cave. Head out and right along lip. Finish up juggy face and enjoy the view from the top. Good. Start at the rail deep in the cave to add an extra move.

Sit start in cave under right arête. Straight up and right via small flake and shallow pocket that used to have teeth.

Sit start in right hand side of cave, up to diagonal break and finish up 'Courthouse'.

Start around RHS of arete on large hold, and move left through large dish to arete and up.

Traverse R to L across narrow red streak, starting on flat hold and finishing on a big jug. The chockstone is in for the feet.

Sit start slightly left of 'Jailhouse' on diagonal break, staying low traverse left around arete and exit up on face.

Sit start as per PP, but rock up left into corner and straight up through roof. Looks easy…

Sit start on the nose left of the little overhang

Match start on flat wall at back of cave facing water side, moving out on large pocket jugs on right wall before reaching back into the crimp rail and moving out and mantling the lip.

The far side of the far boulder. Sit start and up the excellent high and steep wall. Take a

brush, will be a classic when clean.

2 m right of TFS, up past the big loose looking flake to top.

Sit start left of the mini roof and follow the line of horizontal edges.

Small overhang to the right – variants possible.

The overhanging arête with a small cave below, on the 'Psycho Ant Wall' (Wagstaffe) side.

Start in dish pocket in cave, and slap out left a bit then up the high arête – bad landing!

Traverse the obvious ledge rightwards and out through the roof to a long move to gain the ledge where it runs out towards the lip of the cave. Finish matched on the sloping ledge just around the corner.

Start: Sit start at the far left of cave on farthest jug.

Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier

Traverse the back wall as for 'Universal solider' but instead of taking the hard exit up and around the head wall continue out below the lip to do the easier finish of one of the V4's. Super Pumper

Start: As for Top shelf

From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know

Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps.

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

Slap up to the big sloper, then climb out around the lip heading leftward to gain the good slot out on the face. Punch directly up from here to finish on the slopey ledge as for 'Top Shelf'. The holds underneath the lip as used for 'Interloper' are off.

Start: Sit start below the big sloper under the lip.

A funky problem that climbs the inside lip of the cave. From the sloper make your way through pockets under the lip to gain the good jug on the prow below the finish of 'Top Shelf' Punch a big move for the ledge to finish as for that problem. Rad

Start: As for 4 & 5

From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off

Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground.

'Dans Newy'

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang.

WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

Start matched on undercling on the far right of cave moving up and right to finish matched at the obvious break.

Start as for the low ledge on the face then climb straight up. The arete is out.

Left hand end of wall. Up, right and up avoiding the crack and block, finish as TOE.

Left hand end of block, straight up.

1m right. Start on block , straight up to big hold and up crack to tricky mantle.

Start as M to big jug, but traverse right along thin ledge to jugs and mantle up on flat holds.

Start at the left red rounded sidepull, straight up via a nice little throw to join M finish.

Sit start arête right of high crack. Up and onto right face. Might need a clean!

Tall crack. Needs a good clean.

Start at left end of block and traverse right to high crack, or keep going around the corner. Will be hard near the end.

Right again. Start from right rounded sidepull. Straight up, maybe right a bit. Finish will need a clean. JP done except topout.

Traverse the low lip from L to R all the way around the corner, then mantle up.

The most obvious line up the middle of the wall. Stand start on an incut rail. Following the series of edges up to the big pocket feature high up before topping out further right.

The right end of the wall. Sit start on a low rail with back wall out for feet. Bust out to small left hand edge and make your way up to the jug. Drop off, has the opportunity to top out.