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Lucky Bay West Rock climbing 14 routes in cliff

Grade context: AU
Photos: 1
Ascents: 8

BLDV

V0-V0 V0+V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V7

Map

2 1

1 Serendipity Cave 2 Lucky Bay South Boulders

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Description

Located at the Western end (campground end) of the beach are a plethora of tall granite slabs rising out of the ocean. The rock quality is generally very good and the climbing is potentially world class. The location of this cliff over the turquoise ocean below, as well as the stunning cave features it possesses make it somewhat unique for Australian climbing. Almost a Kalymnos feel. The limiting factor is a lack of natural protection in order to build toprope anchors and access some of the steeper slabs. This isn’t a problem for the currently described routes. Don’t bolt.

Access issues inherited from Cape Le Grand NP

DEC has stipulated that no additional bolts are allowed to be placed in this National Park. Furthermore, climbing is not allowed at all anywhere on Frenchman’s Peak.

Approach

Five minute walk from Lucky Bay beach and/or campground. Simply scramble up the granite slabs at the western end of the beach and walk around the top of the slabs to reach your desired route.

Descent notes

Rap in, climb out. If the swell is calm there is potential to kayak or swim around to the base of a desired route.

Ethic inherited from Esperance

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/cawa/cawa-code-of-bolting-and-new-route-development/

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Atmosfear Chasm
Silhouette Area

Areas

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Serendipity Cave area

All Top roping

50m

Lucky Bay South Boulders boulder field

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Routes

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This is the closest route to camp. Walk from the camp site to the car park at the west end of Lucky Bay, near the Flinders Memorial. When the road ends, keep walking roughly in the same direction, clambering across the rock ridge until you see a large traverse line above a chasm. GPS 33°59’42.1”S, 122°13’19.4”E.

Find the memorial cairn just above the corner of the bay near the start of the the Thistle cove walk. Wander up the slabs behind the cairn trending left to a low point on the skyline about 100m west of the tip of the headland. You should find a large cave on the ocean side below the crest with a faintly ludicrous traverse along an obvious ledge above the cave.

Start from the slab below the ledge. Belay off large cam in pocket. Climb right to a ‘step over the void’ move and then follow the ledge rightwards past a groove (alternate finish at grade 12) till it terminates at some obvious flakes and orange smoothness. Clamber on top of the flakes and up the wall. Belay off nuts and cams and/or a tree on the crest.

A great little adventure. Ed Nepia 27.1.11

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kangaroo-rock/

Walk from the Lucky Bay camp site to the car park at the west end of Lucky Bay. From there follow the trail toward Thistle Cove for 600 m (6 min). Near the top of the rise you will see a balancing rock – some people think it looks like a croissant, some think it looks like a map of Australia with the top of Queensland chopped off. 15 m after this feature turn to the bushy descent gully to your left. Follow the base of the rock curving to your right until you come to a large corner. Routes are described from R to L, as you come across them. GPS 33°59’50.5”S, 122°13’03.0”E.

The slab and shallow groove above. The crux requires creativity rather than desperation. 5 RB to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Dena Rao, Dec ’11

The twin parallel cracks 2 m L of BA. The start is a bit tenuous (crux) but the rest is an absolute delight. Use a #3 Camalot for trad belay or use the lower-offs of SD. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Apr ’11

Just R of the chimney lies this cunning slab, which is sure to test your footwork and nerve, especially if you are short! 6 GFH to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Apr ’11

This photogenic route takes the pinnacle L of the chimney. Well featured climbing past 4 GFH to lower-offs. Ross Weiter, Ruth Murdie, Nov ’11

One for the connoisseur! From Silhouette descend for 8 m along the boulder base, then traverse 4 m on under-clings onto rock ledge. In the back of it lurks this overhanging off-width crack. Bring two #4 Camalots and some smaller cams. After exiting R at the top continue up slab for 4 m to lower-offs just L of giant hole. Ross Weiter, Dec ’11