Routes as sport in Wheatbelt

The bolted line between the two caves on the buttress to the left of the decayed overhangs. 5BR to DBB.

#4 and #.5-#1 camalots required for extra protection

Batman upto first bolt. Medium cams required for top

Sustained! Follow line of RB's 3m left of Carpe Diem up overhung orange wall. Beware, any rope shorter than 60m will not reach the ground.

Originally named 'Fuelling the Beer Monster' before Mark and Emil renamed it shortly thereafter (https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mt-trio-update/)

P1 30m (21): Delicately up line of bolts (hangers required) to a DBB. P2 30m (18): Continue up and slightly left. Follow cleaned rock up some choss. Bolted all the way, so look hard for them before you start placing dodgy gear.

Can be done as one pitch, with some extended runners.

As for Hail Salathe for first two bolts (hex bolts), then continue past left-most line of 6 FH to DBB..

Start same as Brothels of Baghdad, but continue directly up centre line of 5 FH to DBB.

Starts at the left most DBB (when facing cliff), at the base of the Upper Tier. Follow left-most line of FHs up past two roofs and belay on FH and added gear at top.

Between Ringmaster and Circus, Circus on the upper tier. Rap down to RH DBB – up to bolt common to CC and BL, up to second bolt common to CC and TW then trend L. Possibly the steepest 21 in the state!

From right belay bolts, trend right, and mantel small overhang to first bolt. Follow centre line of colts up very steep wall to DBB used for rap.

Deserves 2 stars, and may have gotten more difficult as holds have probably come off.

Powerful and sustained climbing on good holds with 4BR. It is best climbed when it is socked in on Bluff Knoll.

Very intricate climbing to gain the holds past the first bolt, then very steep getting up past the second bolt. No one can remember the moves no matter how many times you do it. The last part is big mountain climbing. The pain stops when you finish. A great line, even awesome.

Leave the ground with long reaches to gain the thank god pocket. Fairly sustained after the crux with small crimps on powerful lunges depending on your size. 21 if you are a short arse. Bog on to the top.

Sustained, nice face climbing. The same all the way. 20 if you go straight over the bolts or 19 if you go to the right.

Bolted line straight up left of the start of Stirling Moss. Can use a couple of cams for the easy section in the middle

(Closed Project - Please do not climb) Bolted line through the bulge further left from the obvious bolted line (Expansion bolts)

Sports route 30 metres right of Voluptuous.

Lovely face climbing just left of The Antechinus. Start up the first two bolts of The Antechinus then make a glamorous traverse left on ideal jugs. Grab the quoll by the tail and make a final step up and left with finesse. Cruise up the upper face on crimps, incut flakes and foot jugs. Trends right after the last bolt and shares the lower off on The Antechinus.

Follow the bolts up the northern face of the large orange block.

steep start with series of v7/8 moves with a delicate finish on the slab Pre-clip the first 2 bolts (the first one mainly to offset the belayer)

Climb straight up slab to first First bolt and then stay right of bolts until delicate traverse at 6th bolt that leads to a powerful finish. Ends on a victory jug at the first Anchors. The extension is an open project. It gets the name from a stream of water that came down on Henry at subset when the wall is in golden light.

Starting on the left side of the dominant scoop feature in the middle of the wall. Follow the ledge/flake system with series of laybacks, mid-sized jugs and crimps to the top of the flake. Use the brake to traverse back left to the 5th bolt where your can rest to get ready for the final 10m delicate crimp fest (crux), finishing on a couple of grades easier, but still spicey, slab.

From the base of the large scoop feature in the middle of the wall flow through a series of laybacking and stemming. Continue up the obvious feature through a technical boulder problem immediately followed by some powerful moves and big throws. Mantle to a good rest before the thought provoking sequence to the anchors.

Superb climbing through the small 3D scoops at the beginning, past a good rest in the men-sized scoop and then over (1st crux) and via the ledge system to a mental finish (2nd crux) at the massive scoop below the anchor.

Open Project, climb golden shower and continue to second anchors.

First line on far left of amphitheatre right side. Steep technical climbing off the ground, past 3 bolts, leads to jug hauling to the break. Kiss the guano to an airy clip, pull onto the roof past another 3 bolts to the anchor. Epic finish. 7 bolts to dbb.

Start 10m left of Go the Dockers. Follow bolts to the DBB. The DBB is the first anchor of Painters and Dockers).

Pitch 1: 30m (5brs) Double Bolt Belay

Pitch 2: 30m (3brs) Double Bolt Belay

Can rappel each pitch on a 60m rope.

A well protected climb with plenty of bolts!

Pitch 1: 40m 14 (9brs) - start at obvious short crack. Follow bolts to bolted belay on small ledge.

Pitch 2: 43m 14 (8brs) - finishes in second cave. Bolted belay inside cave.

Pitch 3: 45m 15 (10brs) - exit cave on right then up left past the last cave to choice of 2 bolted belays - take the higher non-hanging one for more comfort.

Pitch 4: 48m 13 (10brs). Follow bolts to choice of 2 bolted belays - take the higher non-hanging one for more comfort.

Pitch 5: 40m scramble (4brs). Follow bolts to bolted belay and test your belayer's paying out slack speed.

Walk Off: you can walk off to climber's left (East) but it is sketchy so keep your shoes on and forget about it if it has rained or there is dew around. Walk to top then keep heading left until the slope of the rock is only slightly concerning. Head down. You may see a rope. Head in its direction and then keep following the cairns and base of the wall. It's hard to find so stay strong, have faith and keep going left and down.

Rap: Or, just rap down but you need 2 ropes. There are numerous bolted belays so it's hard to miss one and you'll be down quicker than the walk off (and probably safer too if it's even slightly wet). The rappel off "Made in Australia, from Local and Imported Ingredients" (anchors about 10 metres to the west) is significantly better in terms of rope snags and sheath damage.

This enjoyable cruise starts 5m right of the white streak of Sucked in Ben. Easily spotted, entirely equipped by ring bolts.

1. 35m, 15 Up the well featured slab with crux half way up, to wide ledge. 9 bolts

2. 35m, 14 The steep clean headwall with huge holds, to another wide ledge. 5 bolts

3. 50m, 13 A huge pitch of face climbing, a bit mossy. 10 bolts

4. 55m, 12 Still more face climbing, passing rusty chains of SiB to the right, 9 bolts

5. 40m, 6 Walk past 3 more bolts to the summit and last belay.

Descent can be reduced to four rappels by combing pitches one and two (if you're using two 70m ropes).

Enjoy the views.

Requires cams at halfway break

Starts 10m right of Riddy Wuzere below a bolt and shallow grooves. Brilliant, varied slab climbing with lots of memorable cruxes and well protected by bolts (no hangers required). It provides a fine juxtaposition to it’s neighbour, Riddy Wuzere, which is a climb from another era and worthy of repeating in its own right. Albeit, it can be rather frightening depending on how much moss is about ! No such moss issues on Loofah Groove however, and adequate bolts means a fun day out for all. Finishes just below the summit on the same ledge as Riddy Wuzere (far south end of ledge) and Gemini (~4m to the south of DBB). Gemini looks rather runout and probably has not seen a 2nd ascent. Aspiring punters should beware !

1. 30m, 18 10bolts. Very enjoyable, well featured slab climbing. Up easy slab to first bolt. Pleasantly up past bolts, flakes, grooves and jugs before a delicate sequence (crux) takes you to the base of a right leading ramp. Step right a little before climbing up onto ramp and following it right. Cross the deep groove (easier higher up) and find DBB on slab right of groove.

2. 20m, 22 7 bolts. Classic delicate slab climbing with a trio of subtle cruxes. High step and smear your way nervously past the 2nd bolt and grab the crimper rail gleefully at the 3rd. Wobbly you your way over the awkward step before overcoming the final steepening with some very classy climbing. Pad up the easy slab to DBB on the headwall. The belay at the top of Gemini pitch 2 is down and slightly left in the nasty gulch.

3. 28m, 22 10bolts. Traverse right 3m from belay into grooves. First bolt is mildly awkward to get to. Stem, pinch and layback your way up the groove past bolts (crux). Swing onto the nose and launch yourself up on to the detached perch in a fantastic position. Gloriously stem up the big groove to the right and then romp up the plaisir slab to DBB on ledge. Superb, varied climbing.

4. 25m, 10 Scramble out right up blocks to top. No bolts on this pitch but you can place some med to large wires if you have them or thread blocks with long slings. If you got this far, running it out is not a problem. Friction belay on the summit or use one or two med to large wires. Descend north eastish towards tourist summit of Marmabup Rock. Picking up your packs where you left them; summit, saddle or base of route. You could easily rap down the route if required using the DBBs and a 60 m rope but you will need leaver biners, shackles or prussic as the anchors are hangers.

Rap down 3 pitches from belay hangers at the top of Marmabup Rock, or climb it as a variant of Rehearsing the Fate of Absalom (after pitch 2).

It’s amazing what you can accomplish living on stolen condiments. Rap in, climb out, plaisir slab sport climbing consumer combo. Leave your hexes at home. Find your way to the top of Marmabup Rock and locate a double hanger belay on the southish side towards the top of RTFOA. Abseil 50m down past the hanger brail trail to a double bolt belay at the top of pitch 2. Rap 30m down from here past more bolts with your eyes closed to preserve the onsight. Stop at the double bolt belay at the top of Pitch 1 and then rap the final 25m to a bolt belay on some big blocks and a sort of cleft thing. This is nowhere near the ground. RTFOA classic corner pitch is just to the climbers left. You could climb that route from the ground if you want, then join up with this one. Fun times. A fun, modern bolted, sport slab climb.

1. Scamper up past 8 fixed hangers (FH) to DBB. Grade 17. Nut-craft not required, unless you’re a squirrel.

2. Grade 17. 11FH and 30m of crunchy 1200million year old precambrian granite slab (no, that’s not a type of cheese). Clip smear clip clip smear smear. Cleans up better than Barrington quarry and no bogans.

3. Make sure you are on the pointy end for the glory summit pitch. The crux is not tripping on the bolts as you romp home. 7FH, grade 15.

Bolted for standard Porongurup conditions. i.e light drizzle, considerable apathy and a niggling southerly. Can’t believe the Boya Boys missed this one.

Up arete right of first bolted ladder. Large cam required for crack, and RB's are rusty. Ringle FH for belay and descent. Not recomended

Start from ground and up arete 5m right and below Karma.

The obvious and spectacular arete. Technical face and slab climbing makes this an absolute Western Australian classic!

Below the end of the skywalk, up the arete. A project bolted by Logan Barber. I believe he might be happy for anyone to have a go, but best check with him first.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/castle-rock-f-a/

The arete on the south east corner with superb slab climbing. Has 4 very old carrots. Anchors cannot be reached after skywalk construction.

Four VERY old bolts.

Found downhill of summit on a boulder is a climb up a twin crack system

The rightmost line

Start 4m R of The Spear. Some bulges half way up provide the entertainment. Sustained and absorbing, with 8 GIMBs.

An interesting and varied line with many features, an adventure.

(i) (35m, 12) Start just L of the cave, then wander right to DBB just R of loose blocks. 7 GIMBs.

(ii) (30m, 15) Up from belay, traverse horizontally L after 3rd bolt, then up (crux). 7 GIMBs.

Face climbing galore, the second pitch is a tad mossy but not revoltingly so.

(i) (30m, 15) Wander about looking for edges, pull through overlap. 8 GIMBs.

(ii) (30m, 14) In between the two green mossy water runnels. 6 GIMBs.

Enjoyable and absorbing, with a great second pitch.

(i) (30m, 15) Cruise up the right side of the face, trending right to a tricky finish. 7 GIMBs.

(ii) (30m, 18) The nicely featured climbing abruptly ends at a steep section with sparse holds. Hmm...7 GIMBs.

Smear!

Probably not a project anymore.

A nice flow of moves to the top.

Mantle start on the bulge at the bottom to a secure first clip, straight up to the top out and walk/ scramble to double anchors at the top. Rings all the way.

Head up the crack with rings up the left hand boulder. Leave the crack and come out onto the face of the left hand boulder, follow rings up to double anchor at the very top. Be prepared to haul against some serious rope drag to get the rope back if lowering down.

To the right of Emu Walking. Thin and hard

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/some-new-lines/

Climb past three bolts on arete to tough finish. Small finger crimps, big moves and crap feet.

Start as Ithica and follow bolts to the left to FH belay

Start with difficult moves near broken tree (do not use) and follow jugs and crimps rightwards to difficult and reach moves to second clip (ground fall potential). Delicately climb to top anchor. https://vimeo.com/28926482

Hard and dynamic start leads you to good holds and top of boulder.

Best to stick clip first bolt

Open project. Needs bolting. Could be great!

Some of the best moves at the crag! Ape your way up the right side of the arete near Meet the Heffalumps. Mantle with style onto the hanging slab. Slap over the final bulge and wow, that was a fun route !! Stick clip first bolt. 4FH to DBB.

Up through the stripes onto slab finish. Nice splits move. Two bolts to 1BB.

Use cairn to get high left foot, climb slab up to good holds on the left, then cruise up the spine to finish. Three bolts to 1BB.

Right side of arête to second bolt 1BB. High first bolt, bring mat, spotter, stick clip or confidence.

Right side of arête to top out and 1BB. High first bolt, bring mat, spotter, stick clip or confidence.

Crux moves onto face, then pleasant climbing on giant crystals, pinches and small edges. Three bolts to 1BB.

Impressive bulging offwidth, wider than a number 6 cam. Stick clip first bolt to do a hard move getting established. No offwidth technique required, you can layback the whole way! Two bolts to 1BB with trad back up.

Stick clip to protect hard start move getting onto the wall. Use your head, no crystal fingering required! Fun moves over the overlap. Three bolts to 2BB.