Routes as unknown in Wheatbelt

FA (PITCHES 1-4) ROB WALL, INGVAR LIDMAN 2 MAY 2022

Pitch 5 Closed Project

https://robjwall.wordpress.com/2022/05/04/new-stirlings-route-castle-on-a-cloud/

Free version of Call me Thor

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/just-call-me-thor/

A useful abseil descent route with bolted anchors. Currently 3 abseils are equipped that can get you down from the belay ledge at the top of pitch 4 from Endless Quest.

Abseil 1: Toward the left end of the ledge at the top of Endless Quest pitch 4 you can find 2 bolts with abseil rings. They are 2m down from the ledge and can easily be accessed. They are not further left on the ledge where it becomes very exposed sits above a hanging slab. If you abseil straight down close to the line of Endless Quest Pitch 4 it is 30m to the ramp at the start of this Pitch. If you have 2 ropes it is a bout 45m to abseil slightly left and stay on the gentle slab until you reach the far left of the ledge at the top of Endless Quest Pitch 3. The left edge of this ledge is also the top of Fat Guy Goes Nutzoid which is a good, easy route to get onto this ledge if you want to do Endless Quest P4 which is classis grade 17 fun.

Abseil 2: From the left edge of the slab head down a little and back right below the thin band of bushes. Scramble easily down curved and bumpy slabs to a bowl like stance and double bolt rap anchors with 2 red carabiners. Look on the topo for approx location. Abseil approx 45m straight down the slab to the next anchor...... which is another2 bolts with red carabiners on climbers left close to the gully full of bushes. The stance is good and there is a dead bird skeleton in a hollow for you to look at while waiting for your friends to arrive.

Abseil 3: 31m down and to climber's left to avoid hanging in the air over Endelss Quest's BIG overlap. You can make this on a 60 but please be careful. If your rope is 58m be very cautious..

This should land you 30m or so to the left of the very start of endless quest and 20m right of Possumless.

Start, walk through beneath flake. Climb-the chimney formed by the right side of the flake and the boulder. Descend by abseil.

Start under right end of two horizontal cave systems.

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-routes-gibraltar-rock/

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

It is the line immediately right of spangelic upstarts on a reddish wall with an obvious right diagonal seam through a head wall. Even with several rain storms this route drys very quickly and was put up between showers! Start down and right from the belay at the start of spangelic upstarts and bogan villager at ground level between two obvious moss streaks. Climb an easy slab past three BR, need hangers. DBB,25m. Pitch two heads straight up past a thin seam with three or four micro nuts and cams. Continue up steeper terrain and the diagonal seam past six FH and a number seven rock or offset cam in that range. very cool and thought provoking moves through the head wall to a DBB. Classic pitch. Single 60m rope will suffice.

See Mini-guide: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/2014-Gibraltor-Rock-New-Routes-1-Warning.pdf

About 30m right of Illusions of Grandeur there is a sharp gully. The climb takes the slab wall on the left of this gully, to the first bolt belay. Then head straight up to the summit in three easier pitches. 2nd pitch has 3 bolted runners and bolt belay. R&R Master

Follows a direct line up a weakness in the face through an obvious cave halfway between Rooster Carnage and Joint Venture; strenuous and committing.

180m grade 23

Pitch 1 Up ill defined grove into shallow cave; through cave (crux) and belay above on bolts (grade 23).

Pitch 2 Up shallow grove to nearly full rope length on spaced natural pro. Belay where possible (grade 17)

Pitch 3 Straight up easy slab to top, long run outs on good rock (grade 12)

#Note bolts in top of cave protecting crux may need replacing.

Starts at the narrow slabby tongue that extends to the ground about 100m right of Joint Venture. The climb goes up the wall just to the right of the obvious mossy drainage line that is topped by bushes 70m above the ground.

Pitch 1: 15m 16 Up the slab trending right past 3BR to the pod and DBB. First bolt is a little high as it was meant to be the second bolt but unfortunately the battery died drilling the final hole! If you’re up for the second pitch you should have no problems here.

Pitch 2: 50m 19 Straight up the well featured face past 11BR to ledge and DBB. A 50m rope will suffice but don’t use too much at the belay. Be careful of loose flakes off the main line. The line up the bolts was cleaned but there are some flakey sections where a delicate touch is recommended. Exercise good judgement. Crux at the obvious steepening 3/4 of the way up. Good climbing up steep, well featured and sharp rock. From the top of the second pitch it’s still 70m to the top but a relatively easy scramble up the slab.

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

See "The Guide" 2nd ed

Left hand line of weakness through the slab. 10 bolts. Pleasant climbing up grooves and scoops to a delicate, slabby crux up high. Well protected. Really worthwhile.

Right hand line of weakness through the slab and then up the arete. Easy climbing on grooves takes you to a delightful, delicate and sustained rising traverse to a sloping arete. Up this and then easily to the top. Great climbing and a memorable position. Very grippy smearing !

A fun route with two varied pitches, Pick the Flora and then Eat the Fauna. Surprisingly different slab climbing on each pitch, easy access and an expansive mid way ledge make it a worthwhile route. Pitch 1 starts left of the slabby dike that leads to Fairy Steps. Pitch 2 starts left of the main steeper dike line climbed by Fairy Steps. The dike line is easy to spot, just down from the saddle between Marmabup Rock and Devil’s slide.

1. 25m (17) Grade 17, one tricky move. Look for the hangers on a smooth light grey slab. Start off some blocks and climb the slab. Crux gaining the diagonal groove. Requires slab technique 101 to reach the groove. DBB higher up where the angle lessens.

2. 30m (18) Scramble up to belay on the ledge below the far left end of the head wall. Climb up past hangers and traverse right on ramp then up (crux) with bigger holds appearing soon. DBB and an awesome view.

Start at the northern end of the east face. Climb the slab with two BR then bog on up the crack and wall above.

Start about 25m left of the steel ladder. Crank up to the first BR then up the wall with another BR and an intermediate wire if you like.

The crack and flake just left of TDTWC, with one BR in the headwall.

Start at the RHE of the huge exfoliation flake 20m right of SIS. Cruise up once you get past the second BR. 9BR to DBB.

Starts at col of eastern end of East Peak at left end of lowest bushy ledge near base of rock. Up the slab (no pro) and follow wall just to the left of a deep crack. Lower slab can be avoided by accessing just left of summit scramble. Mike Smith, John Watson & Mac McArthur - 6 March 1993

A poorly protected chimney - follows the inside chimney of the huge flake bounded on its left by Steal Eye Span. Starts on top of the flake on the left ... chimney towards the roof. Pro at 6m. Exit gratefully to flake summit then follow the 'shakev flakey' wall on the left. Mike Smith & Ron Master - 27 February 1982

Easy slab. Needs cleaning/bolting. Open project.

Needs cleaning / bolting. Open project.